| Author | Message | ||
     Drhodes1970 |
Well, my stator is gone again! I sent my stator to custom rewind to have the output lowered and i my volts would read anywhere from 13.2 to 14.0. All I changed was the stator and even left the harness fix in thinking that would keep the heat out of it.What else should I have done? EBR rotor? Different regulator? Im not very mechanically inclined and this subject is getting more and more complicated as we go.Please someone give me some advice on the next step I should take! I not sure if i'm gonna keep it or not. I thought it was fixed! WRONG! | ||
| Timebandit |
definitely go for the EBR oiling rotor. it's your best option right now. | ||
| Sprintst |
My buddy's Honda Repsol just got a new stator and regulator under a warranty extension Honda did when they found they had a problem (Message edited by sprintst on June 10, 2012) | ||
| Drhodes1970 |
And just get custom rewind to do the stator again? And what r\r to get? | ||
| Zac4mac |
Personally, I would: 1)get the rotor mod from EBR 2)send your stator back to the re-winder to assess failure and re-wind accordingly. 3)get a Good series R/R Z | ||
| Drhodes1970 |
What series regulator Zac? This is what i'm gonna do. Thanx for the responses guy's! This will be the 3rd time for this problem and I want it to be fixed because I love this bike and I do not want to let it go. | ||
| Hildstrom |
I suggest the CE-605 SB. This page describes my install. This page has regulator temperature during real-world driving and idling in traffic. I've only got about 1000 miles on it so far though, so I can't comment on long-term reliability beyond saying that temperatures look good where I have it mounted. (Message edited by hildstrom on June 11, 2012) | ||
| Timebandit |
Or you could just use the EBR oiling rotor in conjunction with the H-D relay harness and the stock Ducati shunt reg. According to the very liberal definition of "series regulator" that's being used on this forum, the H-D/Ducati setup is every bit as much of a series regulator as the Compufire product. Best of all, the relay harness is FREE. | ||
| Hildstrom |
"According to the very liberal definition of 'series regulator' that's being used on this forum, the H-D/Ducati setup is every bit as much of a series regulator as the Compufire product." At idle and low rpm, that may be correct. However, a series regulator is capable of disconnecting all stator leads and reducing stator current/heat under a wide variety of operating conditions. The harness/stock setup only disconnects one stator lead during very specific conditions programmed into the ECM. During other conditions the stock regulator regulates by shunting and producing more stator current/heat. As Timebandit has stated previously, stator damage accumulation depends on the time-temperature product, so I feel reducing stator current/heat under a wider variety of operating conditions can only help prolong stator life. (Message edited by hildstrom on June 12, 2012) | ||
| Timebandit |
Greg, in your last set of data that you posted in your rewind thread, you limited your analysis to say the equivalent of "Stator temperatures are always below a certain value, and that's good." The data actually speaks to say a lot more than that if you look more closely. Your data clearly demonstrates that even with the CE series regulator, the 1125 stator accumulates heat at low RPM, and but at high RPM and high speed the stator temperature actually falls. I hate to get into the habit of having to tell people how to analyze their own data, but your own data set shows things that you have never talked about -- namely that the risk to the stator (heat accumulation) occurs at RPMs below 4000, and that at RPMs above 4000 that are accompanied by highway speeds, the stator temperature becomes stabilized and or reduced. This clearly tells us that the at-risk period for the stator is during operation below 4000 RPM. what a coincidence, that's exactly where the H-D relay harness is designed to operate. Maybe, just maybe, those engineers at H-D know EXACTLY what they are doing. Going one step further, your data shows that even when using the CE series regulator, the steepest slopes in the stator's heat accumulation occur at idle and below 4000 RPM. That very clearly demonstrates that your CE regulator isn't helping (enough) in the range below 4000 RPM. That's the range in which the H-D relay harness operates. Of course, the H-D relay harness doesn't do squat below 2000 RPM. POS' data shows that his Compufire regulator doesn't do squat below 2000 RPM either. What's the obvious answer? It doesn't take a rocket surgeon to understand that in the area of highest thermal risk to the stator, which is 4000 RPM and below, there is one and only one product that can possibly help to improve the situation below 2000 RPM. It's not the relay harness. It's not the CE regulator, and it's not the CF regulator. The only device that can help where we need it most -- below 2000 RPM -- is the oiling rotor. If you guys want to do the most that you can to cool the stator, the simple answer is not to operate it in a range in which it is unprotected. Better yet, install something that will protect it across the entire powerband and at every load level. The oiling rotor is the only device that fits the bill. It should be considered as your primary means of protection, and everything else should be considered as supplemental protection that can be added at your discretion. | ||
| Drhodes1970 |
Thanx Timebandit, that's some useful info.Oiling rotor is the first thing i'll do besides getting the stator rewound. And the stock duc regulator is what I shouldsk a for?Should I still leave in the harness fix with all these other changes? | ||
| Timebandit |
There's another thread where there's a heated debate going about whether or not it's worth it to buy one of aftermarket series regulators, or to just stick with the OEM relay harness. In that thread I've recommended that everyone spend their first $200 on the oiling rotor upgrade, and not on an aftermarket regulator that essentially duplicates the function of the charging harness that we already have. In the end, this all comes down to personal preferences, how much you care to spend and how much you believe in any particular way of solving the problem. I talked to the lead design engineer for the 1125 powerplant at EBR and he told me that what I needed was the oiling rotor. Period. Nothing else. If you want an added layer of protection, then the oiling rotor plus a supplemental means of protection makes sense. That supplemental means could be any of the "series" regulators, which according to the loose definition of series regulators that we use on this forum, could mean: OEM relay harness with OEM Ducati shunt regulator, or the CE regulator, or the CF regulator. Right now you have to base your choice on faith, as there isn't any hard-core data to compare the results of the different approaches. Personally, I'm using the oiling rotor with the relay harness and the OEM Ducati shunt reg. | ||
| Finedaddy1 |
Here is a photo of my Custom Rewind stator before my EBR rotor install with approx 2,000 miles on it. I thought I'd take some pics of it for reference. I have now put about 400 miles on my EBR modified rotor, I hope this ends the stator issue once and for all......  | ||
| Baf |
Hopefully it ends your stator issue. I believe mine just crapped out, and I've got 400 miles on it since putting the EBR rotor in. | ||
| Finedaddy1 |
Holy sheeeeeeeet! Please post up on what you find. | ||
| Baf |
http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/290 431/683552.html?1339636326 Not really sure what the issue is yet. | ||
| Bextreme04 |
I had a regulator fail at around 2,000 miles so i replaced it with the fh0012. Charging voltage became much more stable and higher. I am now at about 9,000 miles and have gone through three harness relays but no stator or regulator issues. I am planning on putting in the ebr rotor when i hit the 12,000 mile service sometime this winter and maybe a rewind if the stator looks crispy. |
