| Author | Message | ||
     Porkerm7 |
Last night while riding home my headlights blew out and all the electronics/lights shut off on my '09 1125cr. The instrument panel was reading system voltage. After resetting everything, the bike seemed to run fine except no headlights. My bike has about 4800 miles on it and had the stator replaced under warranty last year and the harness upgrade was also completed. I haven't looked at anything yet, but common sense is telling me that it's possibly the VR. Any info would be greatly appreciated! | ||
| Clutchreaper |
Had the exact same thing happen to me but only at daylight. It was the VR. I could shut the bike off, restart, and run it for a while before the 'system voltage' would pop up again. The left fan ran constantly when this happened (must be some kind of safeguard since a lot of other electronics on the bike shut down when in this mode). Ended up having to replace the fan eventually because I think the voltage climbed high enough while running that it burned the fan out. I ended up replacing all of my headlight lamps since they were blown as well. If you take it to a stealership for servicing be careful since you won't have front lamps, and I'm pretty sure that the taillight won't operate in this mode either. Good luck! | ||
| Yugi |
Had the same issue, it's a VR. | ||
| Porkerm7 |
Cool, thanks for the info. I'm probably just going to get the OEM VR from the dealer and change it myself. Hopefully it's not too crazy of a job! | ||
| Yugi |
You better install something more reliable like Compufire 55402 or CE605SB. I personally installed Compufire, because it fits the standard location. | ||
| Timebandit |
I don't know about the expectation of enhanced reliability. Yes, there has been a lot of internet pimping of the Compufire 55402 by Motoman and his forum-hopping front man, but it nobody has established that it is more reliable than the Ducati vreg. Anecdotal experience of forum members here has been the opposite: one forum member had immediate failure on install, and the manufacturer refused to warranty the part on 1125 applications. I tried contacting the manufacturer with technical questions; we started an email exchange, but they stopped answering my emails as soon as I used the word "Buell." That was sufficient to give me pause. People on this forum have been trying the CE product lately. It will be interesting to hear how things work out for them in extended service. Reliability? They haven't been in use long enough and in sufficient numbers for us to really have good data on reliability. When it comes to claims of enhanced reliability, I have doubts that any series regulator will prove more reliable than a shunt regulator. There's a reason that manufacturers rely on shunt regulators -- they are more reliable and result in fewer warranty claims. If series regulators were more reliable, then manufacturers would be all over them. The problem with series regulators is two fold: First, they tend to work well in low-load applications, and they tend to fail in high-load applications. If you're a guy who rides with no accessories/low-load, then a series reg might work well for you. OTOH if you ride with a high load, such as heated gear, the series regulator will be required to dissipate as much power as the shunt regulator, and you should expect that a series regulator would fail under those circumstances. Shunt regulators have longer life under high-load conditions because they just clamp the voltage and don't dissipate all the power internally. Second, from a design standpoint, building a series regulator that will tolerate high RPM is more complicated / requires higher quality parts than building one that will only operate at low RPM. From a design standpoint, I'd expect that a series regulator designed for a low RPM application would fail in short order if it was used in a high RPM application. I'm just guessing, but I think this could explain why the 55402 manufacturer refuses to warrant their product for our application. The bottom line is that there are plenty of reasons to try a series regulator, but the expectation of enhanced reliability isn't one of them. | ||
| Dannybuell |
Timebandit ~ THX | ||
| Posplayr |
Time bandit - I'm going to print that post out and hang it on the wall. Classic misinformation  Pure deduction may be appropriate when no other information exists, but when applied with the exclusion of all available information it can at best be construed as incompetence. | ||
| Red_rock_1125 |
Just had mine do the same thing this afternoon. It's been through a stator/vr/battery change 3k ago...no problems. Took it on a ride to the 666/191 twisties over Memorial day weekend and all went well. Today I heard some unusual noises while exiting the neighborhood and looked down to see the cluster speed dashed out and nothing but the "VOLTAGE SYSTEM" warning. The fans were screaming like and EDF R/C jet. Switched it on and off and it went back to normal and made it through I-10 to the first destination, the bank. Possibly the heat today did it in and waiting for the trains last few cars didn't help. Heard it happening again and looked down, flipped to voltage to see 16.2 volts and then it then it all dashed out again with the "VOLTAGE SYSTEM" message taking over. ON/OFF and it was gone, happened again immediately. Flipped it to voltage after restart and it read 14.8 then ticked down to 13.7 and as I started off the indication rose to 18.2 volts and dashed out. The headlight was blown, changed it out at final destination and blew it right away. Time to exercise the warranty. (Message edited by Red_rock_1125 on June 03, 2012) | ||
| Kickstand76 |
my left headlamp blew also. happened about month ago. replaced it. happened again a week ago. battery light kept illuminating replaced that too figuring that it is original one. bought bike in late 08 early 09. it's an 08 model. now im smelling burning plastic/electrical components. probably burnt fan too. as i read these threads im seeing i need to order VR. $145.00. my 25r has same symptoms with cluster going out and "system voltage" message. whats funny is my truck was down due to leaking thermostat housing unit. got that thing fixed now bike goes down. my xb12s still sitting in garage.  | ||
| Red_rock_1125 |
Since the VR isn't ridiculously costly, I wondered about a wiring mod paralleling 2 VR's. I wonder if I caught this VR soon enough to prolong the Stator life significantly, 18.2 V must have really been running some amps. | ||
| Timebandit |
POS - why don't you demonstrate your extensive knowledge of engineering and provide the forum with some facts instead of just dishing out insults and making unsubstantiated accusations of incompetence? Perhaps you could provide us with some real-world experimental data that you've generated from your extensive testing of the 1125 electrical system? Oh that's right -- you haven't done any testing on the 1125 electrical system because you don't even own an 1125. You own a 1986 suzuki, and you visit all of the motorcycle forums on the internet to try to sell series regulators for Motoman. Everyone here has got your number. Here are some facts to back up my assertions. Any competent design EE knows them. Faraday's law dictates that the output voltage of the stator is proportional to the rate of change of magnetic flux i.e. rotor RPM. If you had ever performed any experiments on a real 1125 (we all know that you haven't) then you'd already know enough not to say those silly things that you said earlier: * at Froggy-style engine speeds, the AC voltage output of the stator is about ~50-60VAC; * this voltage scales up linearly to ~120 VAC at redline; * the difference in voltage specifications of ~60VAC and ~120VAC dictate that the designer needs to choose more expensive parts for the high RPM application than for the low RPM application. Any competent circuit designer knows this. Stop spreading BS. You're giving out bad advice on servicing the 1125 electrical system because you aren't even familiar with the bike. You're just dropping in at this forum to try to sell regulators -- just like you do on all of the other motorcycle forums. | ||
| Kevmean |
I don't know any of you guys on here but I know from reading through this tech section who I would listen to regarding charging problems ............. all I will say is never trust a salesman  Good to see some people are genuinely interested in finding the correct solution to some of our problems even if it costs them personally. The other people who deserve thanks are Oberon in the UK for spending a lot of development time on the clutch problem for what must be a very limited potential market for them . | ||
| Baf |
This shouldn't affect your stator at all. The extra voltage would have just been shunted off to ground had the VR been working properly anyway; same amperage running through the stator either way. Actually, there was probably a little less stress on the stator with the VR screwing up. | ||
| Dannybuell |
ad hominem, a sharp blade that cuts both ways. | ||
| Posplayr |
Timebandit I'm not selling for Motoman or even Compufire. Here is a review I posted on Amazon. There are multiple vendors now supplying this R/R. With your own experience with the support people at Compufire, I bet even you can figure out they would not be paying anybody to promote Harley Davidson R/R's for any other bike and certainly not me. http://www.amazon.com/Compu-Fire-Regulator-3-Phase -Charging-55402/dp/B0035U7LRM/ref=cm_cr_pr_product _top My measurement/analysis on motorcycle charging systems has mainly restricted to the ones I own. I have done this as a form of relaxation and to help other people that are struggling with motorcycle electronics/charging. SHUNT regulation is a pox that seems to afflict 95% of all motorcycles even today. You can find many of my posts here. http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.ph p?t=152769&highlight=charging+system+health I apparently was the first person to post on the WEB to post actual stator winding voltage and current measurements comparing a FH012AA to a Compufire. Here is some summary data showing the big difference in power dissipation between a MOSFET SHUNT regulator and a SERIES Compufire. There are some others but this is the one I bought and tested. The fundamental principles are going to be the same. The benefit (lower power dissipation in R/R and stator) of the SERIES R/R over SHUNT will also be available to the Buell. I don’t need to measure this on a Buell to know that. If I needed to know the exact amount of benefit, measurements would be needed. But given the information already provided here, you need everything you can to avoid stator melt down. Going back to a MOSFET approach is counterproductive. Your insistence that there is nothing proven with a SERIES R/R is damaging for anybody reading what you are posting. It might not solve all problems, but it will certainly be better. http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/picture.php?a lbumid=1998&pictureid=10791 The basic principles of electrical engineering (an yes I am one for over 30 years now) apply to a 25 year old Suzuki motorcycle as well as they do to a 1125 Buell. This is something that you seem to want to ignore. It is the fundamental basis of engineering to utilize previously established principles to design new systems on paper before they are ever built. This is something you don’t get as evidenced by your insistence that things are somehow different on a 1125. Granted the Buell is a tougher application due to the high RPM range , higher power requirements and the near thermal overload that the bike was designed to operate under. However all these factors tend to do is make the thermal efficiency of the charging system even more important not less. The benefits of the SERIES regulator are even more important not less. Does it solve all of the 1125 problems. No because as I alluded above (and as I deduced from some previously posted thermal data), the bike is barely able to dissipate the heat produced and only seems to work well at a relatively small range of RPM/road speed where there is a sufficient oil flow and air flow to get the heat away. The solution seems to be a combination of better cooling approaches, (e.g. oil sprayer on the rotor, bigger oil cooler, less power generated, and a SERIES regulator). All of these things in combination will help the problem. It has been documented with IR cameras how dramatic a drop in stator temperature there is with an associated change to a SERIES R/R. The Stator runs cooler, the R/R runs cooler. All things being equal that will always improve the reliability of design. A MOSFET SHUNT regulator absolutely does not. It only does a good job of protecting itself not the stator. So getting back to my original post. Regardless of your diatribe on reliability, lack of evidence, lack of data, Faraday’s law or anything else you bring up, your conclusions that a SERIES R/R is going to be less reliable than a SHUNT is just patently false. Note I am purposefully avoiding a pseudo technical discussion because you just are not prepared and I have no time to go around in circles with nonsense. There are some real stator voltage/current measurements here comparing the two. See if you ca nfigure it out. http://www.keepandshare.com/doc/4066862/ssr-vs-fh012aa-pdf-may-31-2012-10-20-pm-903k?da=y Pos (Message edited by posplayr on June 05, 2012) | ||
| Dannybuell |
Posplayr ~ I loved seeing the FLIR thermal imaging on Aprilia site? way back when? p.s. link 3 doesn't work. | ||
| Timebandit |
It's going to take more than one message to clear up the disinformation that's being propagated in this thread. The people who have been posting data and making claims have laid the BS on so thick that it's going to take quite a bit of effort to chop through it. First, I'll address the FLIR photos:
Someone has drawn the wrong conclusion. Those photos DO NOT depict what you claim they depict. There are several important facts that the astute observer will gain from looking at these photos: 1. The photos were taken by a fellow in Switzerland who goes by the monniker of "Oberon" on the Aprilia Forum. PoS didn't take them. 2. The area under the crosshairs in the photos on the right side are of the CRANKSHAFT behind the puck, and NOT THE STATOR. 3. The photos on the right, and the numbers displayed in them, reflect crankshaft temperature, not stator temperature. 4. The photos do not demonstrate temperature reduction that is caused by series regulation. 5. The photos on the right show that the entire engine is hotter in the top right photo than in the bottom right photo. 6. People who don't know how to interpret these heatmaps are drawing the wrong conclusions. For reference, here are Oberon's photos:  Here's a more detailed explanation: The important thing to understand is that the temperature crosshairs in the right hand photos are on the puck / crankshaft, and not on the stator. The stator is shaped like a donut. It has a hole in the middle, and if you point the camera crosshairs at the donut hole, you don't measure the temperature of the donut -- you measure the temperature of the object behind the donut hole. In this case, that's the crankshaft. The crankshaft is one of the hottest externally sensible parts of the motor to a FLIR camera, because it is in direct connection with the internal components of the combustion chamber deep within the engine. The crankshaft conducts heat directly from the pistons/rods to a more externally visible location behind the ignition cover, where the heat is sensed by the FLIR camera. Again, notice that the "pip", or crosshairs in the right side photos, is on the PUCK, which lies in front of the CRANKSHAFT. Those items are yellow because they are very hot. They are as hot as the main combustion area of the motor, which is also depicted with a yellow color. Notice the stator. It is not yellow. It is purple in both photos. Purple identifies that it is at a much lower temperature than the hottest part of the bike. Those temperatures of 114*C and 98*C are NOT stator temperatures. Those are crankshaft temperatures. Now comes the hardest part for most people to understand -- to compare the temperatures of the two test conditions, you need to to have the engine at the same temperature for both tests. The shades of yellow in the engine and crankshaft have to be exactly the same. Only then will your FLIR photos on the left side be valid. Unless the top right and bottom right crankshaft temperatures are the same, the left-sided vreg temperatures are totally meaningless. Actually, they're worse than meaningless, because they allow somebody to fool you with a false explanation. These photos clearly show that the entire engine is hotter in the top right photo than in the bottom right photo. This is clearly recognizable because the yellow areas are brighter, and more white in the top right photo, while they are darker in the bottom right photo. Unfortunately, these types of photos are easily misinterpreted by the casual observer, and a less than honest person could easily mislead someone into believing that the photos represent something that they do not. The truth is that the photos don't even measure stator temperature. They measure crankshaft temperature through the puck (which is thermally quite thin), and through the large hole in the middle of the stator. It's also very easy for a casual observer to overlook that the overall yellow glow of the engine is brighter in the top right photo than in the bottom right photo. Think about it -- that means that the engine on top is hotter. The truth is that these photos don't actually tell you as much as you might think they do. Someone with less than honest intentions has successfully used these sexy color IR photos to fool you into believing their marketing hype. I'll have to address the other stuff later. Time for bed. | ||
| Timebandit |
I am not impressed by anyone who installed a Shindengen MOSFET shunt regulator under the misconception that they were actually installing a series regulator as an upgrade over an OEM shunt regulator. There are a lot of fools on the internet who promote the use of “MOSFET” regulators without knowing that the term “MOSFET” has nothing to do with whether the device is a series or a shunt regulator. Some of these people – I won't name names – made lots of ballyhoo about upgrading their bike's regulator with the Shitdungeon product, without even realizing that they were just replacing one MOSFET-based shunt regulator with another. The PDF that you published over and over again as you visited one motorcycle forum after another was was actually quite helpful, albeit conspicuously incomplete. I was disappointed that it mentioned all of the benefits of switching to a series regulator, while conspicuously avoiding the discussion about their disadvantages. I was also very disappointed to see that full-page ad for Motoman on page 2 of your PDF. Seeing that made it clear what you were doing – you published your PDF to pimp the Compufire series regulator, and you included a full-page ad telling everyone to shop at Motoman to get the best price. The result is that what could have been a very credible technical document was reduced to overt marketing propaganda. This caused to you to be recognized across all of the bike sites on the internet as Motoman's best salesman. Sure, you were the first guy to post info on the WEB about the Shitdungen regulator. And now you're also the first person to destroy your credibility on the WEB by acting as a parts pimp for a merchant who is not a sponsor of this site. For someone who claims to be an EE with 30 years of experience, you aren't using terminology appropriately. Any competent electrical engineer knows that MOSFET is a term that refers to a type of semiconductor device; it is not a term that describes a regulation paradigm. We've had lots of problems with end users not understanding what MOSFET means because of self-professed internet "experts" who misuse the term with gross negligence. The term "MOSFET" has been bandied about inappropriately by these self-professed "experts", who misused the term to describe series regulators, as if MOSFET were equivalent with series regulation. It is not. “MOSFET” is a term which has nothing to do with describing the difference between series vs. shunt regulation. Unfortunately, in your last post, you are also misusing the term "MOSFET.” You specifically misuse the term, implying that it is equivalent to shunt regulation:
That comment in your post makes it evident that you don't know what you're talking about. I agree with the assertion that a series regulator should theoretically protect the stator by requiring it to dissipate less power internally, with the caveats that Faraday's law cannot be violated, and that the First Law of Thermodynamics continues to apply to the situation; High electrical potentials continue to be generated and the power has to be dissipated somewhere. The series regulator's capability to protect the stator is limited, and inversely proportional to charging system load. You don't mention that. Why? It could be that you're knowledge is not in sufficient depth to know that. Or it could be because that inconvenient truth doesn't help to sell series regulators, so you don't mention it on purpose. So which is the answer? Lack of knowledge or lack of credibility? Yes, series regulators can protect the stator under low load conditions. But as current output increases, their protective behavior diminishes, and their beneficial effects to reduce power dissipation within the stator diminish, and they progressively approach those of shunt regulation as load increases. That's a fact that you're trying to ignore, as if you are a salesman who doesn't like to talk about the product's weak points. A series regulator does offer the benefit of stator protection, but primarily at low loads, and certainly not at high loads. The price that you have to pay for such protection lies in the form of increased energy dissipation that has to take place within the regulator itself. Any doubts about this? If you're lacking the theoretical knowledge, just strap enough load onto your bike to make the charging system run at full output and take some real-world measurements. The series regulation paradigm requires the series regulator to have very good cooling in order to avoid heat related failure. Yes, the series regulator can protect the stator -- but the other side of the coin that you conveniently avoid talking about is that the series regulator itself has to endure thermal stress that is proportional to load to do that. Essentially, what you're doing with a bolt-on series regulator is to move the failure point from the stator to a more convenient location elsewhere in the charging system. There is no free lunch. I've heard lots of talk about how much more reliable series regulators are, but I've seen no evidence to back up the claims. And when I ask about evidence, all I get are rationalizations, hand-waving, and vague comments about why you think it's beneath you to provide solid answers. Don't construe my comments to mean that I'm not in favor of series regulation. I'm just very aware of it's strengths and weaknesses, and I know enough that I don't expect it to be a magic bullet. I also don't think it's fair to use deceptive practices to try to sell these products, and IMO there has been some very cheesy salesmanship floated about on the internet. I also agree with your assertion that a variety of approaches would be necessary to solve the 1125 heat problem. Of course, I have to agree with the multi-pronged approach, as I was the first person to itemize the need for each of the components you mentioned. Thank you for paraphrasing my comments. That was pure flattery. | ||
| Sparky |
So, guys, what components can we agree on would be in our personal 1125 charging system? In 25 words or less... | ||
| Reepicheep |
Sparky... The EBR rotor cup mod is an obvious answer. Get oil out of the crank oil galley and across that stator. No matter what else you do, pumping oil across a hot stator and then into an oil cooler is going to help. | ||
| Curve__carver |
Pos has brought significant benefit into these discussions. Time, no need to take this personally and become defensive. | ||
| Nuts4mc |
Since I was one of the original instigators for MOSFET…Spark – here ya go… ******Applies to 2008 charging system only*****: step1=Shindengen VR ( IMO, the OEM (Ducati) VR is a SCR type VR, the MOSFET supplies higher voltage at lower RPM, offsetting the draw caused by the fans) step2= Step 1 + LiIon battery (Shorai) step3= Step 2 + Compufire VR I’m running step 2 ( ran step 1 for almost 2yrs, left Piglet on a Ctek charger)added LiIon this spring= no charger) ( Note : I run an extra ground (4 ga)from the ground stud to the starter and a “full” level of oil) May go to step 3, but “Piglet” needs new tires first… I applaud Hildstrom’s efforts and wish him a long and trouble free charging system “Thank you” to Mr. Pos and Mr. Time – interesting analysis and conversations Bottom line: Value = Price + Performance + Quality (in exactly equal amounts) …Spark , run what you can afford ( sorry, word count = 167) | ||
| Timebandit |
Unfortunately, the disinformation keeps coming from all directions. Let's start off with the facts: * It's true that an old-school shunt regulator design uses SCRs. * It's true that a properly designed MOSFET-based shunt regulator can be a better design than an SCR-based shunt regulator. * Shindengen spends money to market their shunt regulators as being MOSFET designs. * Ducati and Buell don't market their shunt regulators as being MOSFET designs. That doesn't mean that they aren't MOSFET designs -- it only means that Ducati and Buell aren't spending marketing dollars to tell you they are MOSFET designs. We run into a problem when marketing people know more than their customers, and exploit the customer's lack of knowledge in order to convince them that they need to buy a marketer's product. The objective of marketing is to convince the consumer that they need to buy a magic bullet. The Shindengen VR has gotten a lot of positive feedback from people in the MC community because it's an inexpensive part. People started using them on Japanese bikes because they were cheaper than Yamaha and Honda parts. We all know that the cheapest part on a motorcycle is the owner, so it's no surprise that people with failed vregs have f locked to the Shindengen product because it's cheaper than shopping at the local dealer's parts counter. The advent of internet discussion forums allowed this sort of parts-sourcing knowledge to spread like wildfire, so now everyone's jumped on the bandwagon. Internet parts resellers realize that there's money to be made by cannibalizing the profits from the dealership parts counters, so they jump into marketing the third party products with both feet. This marketing hype necessarily involves the use of buzzwords like MOSFET. The idea behind marketing buzzwords is to use a word that the consumer doesn't understand, in order to make him want to buy something on faith without fully understanding what he's buying. The next stage in the marketing blitz is to send a representative hopping from forum to forum to promote the goods. The problem that comes along is that people buy into marketing hype without actually understanding what they're buying. Part of the problem in this instance is caused by the fact that Ducati and Buell aren't advertising their vreg part as a MOSFET-based product. Why? The first reason is because the Buell brand is dead. The second reason is that Ducati and Buell don't think it's worth money to back a motorcycle advertising campaign that uses the word MOSFET. They're not going to use words like, "MOSFET regulators are sexy," they'd rather use words like "own the corners." Unfortunately, because Buell doesn't overtly advertise that their regulator is a MOSFET-based shunt regulator, people mistakenly assume that it is not a MOSFET-based regulator. People hear Shindengen advertise that their regulator is better because it uses MOSFET and they buy into the hype. These people see "MOSFET" in the advertising literature for the Shindengen product, and they hear the self-professed internet experts yak and yak about how MOSFET is better, so they're drawn into the hype that they should replace their Buell regulator with something else. This decision is based upon the false assumption that the Shindengen is a MOSFET-based product while the Buell is not. Of course, nobody has even bothered to actually do any research to substantiate the claims that the Shindengen product is better. End users aren't the kind of people who will open up their voltage regulator and look at the parts inside, so they have to rely on someone else's opinion. That puts them at risk of being exploited. Most people don't want to spend a lot of time doing any real research, so nobody bothers to open up a Buell vreg and look inside, or to search the patent database to see who owns the most advanced patents in this field. (It isn't Shindengen.) H-D certainly doesn't care to spend money to advertise parts for it's dead brand, and the internet resellers who are pimping the Shindengen products certainly don't want you to know that the Buell part that you're replacing is every bit as good as what they're selling. They want you to stay uninformed. Most customers like to follow the path of least resistance, so instead of doing their own research work, they just believe the marketing hype that tells them they can buy a magic bullet. So where does this put us? The comments that the OEM Ducati vreg is an SCR-based shunt regulator are just not true. It is obvious that anyone who makes that claim has not bothered to do any research; they have not looked at the current patents that Ducati holds for voltage regulator designs (which use MOSFETs), and they have not bothered to open up one of the Buell vregs to take a look at what's actually inside. Plain and simple: anyone who tells you that the Buell vreg is an SCR-based design is talking out of his butt. I can tell you with absolute certainty that after de-potting the Buell vreg, I identified the semiconductors inside by their part numbers. Although I won't describe the operation of the circuit in detail and I won't tell you what the actual part numbers are, I will tell you that Ducati used power MOSFETs that were manufactured by ST Micro. If anyone is really interested in understanding how the Buell voltage regulators actually work, they should go read Ducati's patents and disassemble a Buell regulator for forensic analysis. Before anyone goes spending their hard earned money you need to ask yourself this question: How much improvement can you expect to achieve by replacing a Ducati MOSFET-based shunt regulator with a Shindengen MOSFET-based shunt regulator? The end result is that you will spend a lot of money and get nothing in return. (Message edited by timebandit on June 07, 2012) | ||
| Timebandit |
I can give you a two word answer: TRUST EBR. | ||
| Yugi |
An OEM Ducati VR is not a pinnacle of reliability, either. I have no problems with Compufire so far. | ||
| Timebandit |
Agreed, the OEM BMC vreg doesn't have a stellar reputation. It makes sense to investigate other options and to report back with the results so that we can come to a truthful answer about what works best. I'm looking forward to hearing your long term report. Please don't get the impression that I am defending the OEM Ducati regulator. I'm not. I'll readily agree that it isn't perfect and that it's had it's share of issues. I'm only trying to eliminate the outright lies that are being told about it by people who are promoting other products so that end users can make intelligent, informed decisions that are based upon facts and not outright lies and misrepresentations. As an end user, it's pretty hard for someone to make the right decision if their decisions are based upon misrepresentations made by third party marketing people. To the extent that disinformation can be cleared up, the result is good for all of us Buellers. To keep the reliability of the OEM Buell vreg in perspective, try to bear this in mind: the guys at BMC who made the decision to use Ducati as their OEM regulator supplier happen to be the same guys who are at EBR now. Yes, there are a lot of complaints that the 1125's OEM vreg is not 100% reliable. But in all honesty, do you think that Erik and the guys at BMC consciously chose to put a BAD regulator on their 1125 flagship product, or do you think that they chose the best product that was available to them? Now that EBR is building the 1190RS, do you think that if there were a better/more reliable option available, that they'd use it on the 1190RS? You have to have faith that EBR is on top of this problem, that they've done a lot of research, that they know more than we will ever know, and that the solution they've chosen for the $40,000 1190RS represents the best solution available to them. The solution they've chosen doesn't employ the aftermarket products that the parts sellers are trying to push on you. That said, I have no problems with anyone making an informed decision to buy an aftermarket product and give it a shot. I encourage that! In order to help people from making expensive mistakes that are caused by outright lies from marketing people, I'm doing what I can to point out the claims that I think may be untrue, or based upon half-truth. Of course, you get to make the decision on who is bringing you the most reliable information. If you have any doubts, trust EBR. | ||
| Yugi |
Do you know which VR are they using in 1190RS? | ||
| Nuts4mc |
Yugi - if you google "problems with Ducati Voltage regulators"...you'll get several hits... here's a link to the Diavel forum... http://www.diavel-forum.com/index.php?/topic/935-v oltage-regulator-dies-for-the-second-time/ heat seems to be the culprit...(similar issues on Honda's VF series of the late 90s - early 2K) hopefully on the 1190RS the box is out in the air stream... | ||
| Dannybuell |
Timebandit ~ "I won't describe the operation of the circuit in detail and I won't tell you what the actual part numbers are,... " why not? |
