| Author | Message | ||
     Father_of_an_era |
Ok, I put in the new EBR clutch actuator and it took me forever to prime the clutch. Took the bike to work today and it rode great. Clutch worked flawlessly. However, on my way back home I noticed that when I got on the throttle, the rpms increased but the bike was slowing down. Got off of the freeway and could down shift fine as I came to a stop at a red light but as soon as I took off the bike felt like a car with a manual tranny where the pressure plate was going bad. I know it was going into gear but as soon as I would throttle up the rpms would increase but the bike didn't want to move. It felt like the was slipping out of gear. So, I was able to get to a parking lot and I let the bike cool down for a while. After about an hour, I was able to get on her and ride her home. It felt ok but I didn't get on it to see if it would slip. When I got home I opened the clutch reservoir and the new fluid that I had just put in was now completely grey. After 50 miles! WTH? Any thoughts??? | ||
| Jcjohnson33 |
I'm wondering if the clutch is dragging really bad causing the shifter forks to not be able to fully seat in the next gear and all the gray matter your seeing in the clutch plates wearing from slipping alot. Does it or will it up shift by going clutch less shifts? And does it make a difference of it going into gear versus using the clutch? But then again if the clutch is slipping rather than grabbing either way may not make a difference. That's just my thoughts. Wish I still lived down there so we could trouble shoot together | ||
| Boogiman1981 |
the brake fluid used to actuate the clutch goes yuck really fast. i'd start by bleeding again/more. | ||
| Mackja |
I had a similar issue with the new actuator. What is happening is the actuator is not releasing or engaging fully, and it got worse as the bike got hotter. I had a bur that was causing the actuator to hang up for a short time then release. My dealer polished the actuator piston, and it has been fine ever since. Pull is a part and look for any places in the cylinder that might show contact, also make sure the o rings are not preventing the piston to moving fully | ||
| S21125r |
It's a long shot, but make sure your lever is fully returning to it's home position - especially if you are using aftermarket levers. If not then the bypass hole in the master cylinder piston may not be allowed to vent excess fluid to the resevoir. As the fluid heats up and expands, it will not have any place to vent to except to start slowly engaging the slave cylinder. See this scenario explained quite often in the answers section of CW, however usually in reference to the brake side and usually caused from someone putting an aftermarket lever on that doesn't allow the piston to return fully. | ||
| Father_of_an_era |
Mackja, your explanation seems to be a valid one that I will look into this weekend. S2125r, I do have aftermarket levers but they have been on the bike for a while now. I will check it out by putting the stock lever back on though. However, it appears that the lever that I have on now does travel all the way back up to its resting point like it should. Also, I am going to have to make certain that the spherical nut is tightened all the way down after I open her back up. I wonder if I didn't seat it down all of the way when I put it all back together. I'm not certain but it looks like there may be some metal flake in the clutch reservoir. Man, I hope this doesn't get expensive. I really can't afford it right now and that means the bike will be sitting for a long while. SUCKS! | ||
| Father_of_an_era |
Thanks JC. I would jump on the chance to have you trouble shoot this in my garage with me but, I will take your insight via Bad Web too. I'm not picky! lmao | ||
| Battyone |
Sounds like the slave cylinder isn't returning.And it's holding the clutch disengaged. You say you had trouble bleeding the new set up,so have you got the slave's cylinder aligned properly in the clutch cover? my guess would be that you have the fluid passage almost completely blocked so pressure is not instantly released when you let go the lever. If you hadn't done the puller nut up properly you might have trouble disengaging clutch,not the problem you have. | ||
| Father_of_an_era |
I noticed this same thing once prior to installing the EBR clutch actuator. When I opened the clutch cover there was a tone of black debris (disintegrated rubber o-rings). I associated the blip to the bad actuator and that is when I let the bike sit and purchased the new actuator. Now, from what it seems, the bike only has the issue when it get warmed up. My guess is that the metal swells at a certain temp and the gearing teeth begin to disengage then it all goes back to normal when everything cools. | ||
| Battyone |
I doubt very much that there is anything wrong with your gears. Your problem is the clutch release mechanism. The piston is not returning correctly. Disconnect the hose and disassemble the piston. Check that the fluid hole is lined up. The outer cylinder that you have fitted has just one hole in it to allow fluid in and out.If that is not aligned with the hose/inlet fitting then fluid has to travel round the very small gap between the case and the outside of the cylinder until it finds the entry hole. Which would explain why you found it difficult to bleed after fitting. When everything warms up the gap between cylinder and case probably closes completely and fluid cannot escape to allow the clutch to engage. If you have a good look at the cylinder you have replaced you will see what I mean. I can think of no other explanation for your problem. Screwed up seals would have caused a fluid leak that you would have noticed by now. | ||
| Father_of_an_era |
Thanks Battyone. I will take her apart tonight and give it a look. | ||
| Father_of_an_era |
Ok, I cracked the case open and removed the actuator and I don't see any burs or notches of any sort. I wonder if ti would be smart to put it all back together and take her for a ride? What do you all think? | ||
| 5speed |
If it gives you more trouble go for a ride close to home and when it starts to slip ride it gently home.Jack it up on a reliable and safe cycle lift and run it in a fairly high gear and see if it will slip when applying the rear brake if it does loosen a fitting on the line from the master cylinder to the slave cylinder if it stops slipping the problem is in the master cylinder either the lever is not returning enough to open the return hole or the hole is plugged with debris . | ||
| Nuts4mc |
a) how tight is the "spherical nut" that attaches to the clutch pull rod ? - try loosening it 1 full turn at at time ( possibly "tolerance stack up" has affected the engagement point of the clutch) ...when you can't get shift into "neutral" - tighten it (1) turn ( it should shift into neutral easily when hot or cold) ...the "Oring" on the nut may supply enough friction to stop it from loosening - but I would suggest blue loctite. b) did you remember to install the "pre-load spring" inside the clutch cylinder/piston assy - it pushes the piston against the nut. good luck | ||
| Battyone |
Do the fluid holes line up? | ||
| Father_of_an_era |
Battyone: Yes, the holes do line up. Nuts: I took the actuator apart and ensured that everything was clear of debris and put it all back together again. Once I tightened the spherical nut, I backed it off on half turn. Then I took off my aftermarket clutch lever and re-installed the OEM one. Then, I tightened it all up and bled the clutch with new fluid and took her for a ride. After about 30-35 miles, everything seemed to be alright so I came home. So, for now, it all seems ok. I am going to half to wait until tomorrow to see if the hotter weather may have influenced to problems. Hopefully, all is right now and I won't have a repeat of Thursday. Wish me luck! And, as always, thanks for all the info all. | ||
| Father_of_an_era |
Oh, and I did use the blue loctite on the spherical nut. Thanks again for the info! | ||
| Father_of_an_era |
Ok, I took her for a 53 miles spin and she was flawless... She rides again! Thanks guys, I don't know what I would do without all of you to guide me in the right directions. Thanks again! | ||
| Two_seasons |
So it was the aftermarket lever? | ||
| Father_of_an_era |
Actually, I think it was the spherical nut being too tight. I followed Nut's advice/information and made sure it was clear of debris since the Dot 4 was so dirty and after I did that I put everything back together. When I tighten the spherical nut completely I then backed it off 1/2 turn. I took the lever off but I am going to put it back after a few weeks to see if it causes any issues. I feel a little weird about having mismatching levers on the bike but I figure a few weeks worth of ridding, I will know for certain that the bike is back to normal. |
