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2734
| Posted on Thursday, May 24, 2012 - 11:16 am: |
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Ok here it is and I got a few quirks and questions as well as some work to do. I bought this bike knowing it had been down so thats no biggie because I had planned on changing the color scheme anyway. The left side of the upper, air box cover, tail section and seat cowl all have road rash but nothing thats not fixable. Front fender is fine. The Flexiglass fairings were installed some time after as they only have a small scuff that runs from front to back about middle high on the right side fairing. Missing the rear part of the belt guard but I'm OK with that. Both grips are trash but the seats are nice. The bike has an FMF mid pipe and can.Paper filter stock airbox I think I have already sourced a manual for the bike for bathroom reading. On to the questions: 1. I guess it's a really bad idea to run a pipe and can on a stock ECM ? This thing spits and coughs until about 6000 then it gets really light in the front. There is a hole(more like the Grand Canyon) in the power band from about 3800 to 6000.It's really picky about what gear it's in as well. At 65 mph (3500-3800) the bike is nice,smooth and quiet but at 75 mph (4000-5200) its spits and coughs out of both ends. Can a flash from the stealership fix this or am do I need to start shopping for an EBR ECM ? I found an EBR ECM for an 08 CR with a Barker but will it work for my bike? 2.How can I tell if it has been denoided? If it hasnt do I need to do it or will the ECM take care of that? 3. The clutch cover is toast but not leaking. Is this a major operation or pretty much just a part swap deal? Thanks in advance for your replies, Richard |
Syonyk
| Posted on Thursday, May 24, 2012 - 12:09 pm: |
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Your running issues are the stock ECM with an aftermarket pipe. It's lean as h*** to begin with, and a pipe leans it out further. Get the race ECU. Denoiding: Take the airbox off & look for the big solenoid. The race ECU will never trigger it even if it is installed. |
Daggar
| Posted on Thursday, May 24, 2012 - 12:40 pm: |
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1. Def get an EBR ECM. Best mod for my bike that I have done, and I have the stock exhaust. 2. Take the airbox off and you'll see the noid, if it's there. 3. If your clutch starts leaking, get the $100 part from EBR. Mine was fixed under warranty, so I don't have experience installing it, but it seems pretty easy. |
2734
| Posted on Thursday, May 24, 2012 - 01:14 pm: |
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Ok I just searched and found the Denoid thread Puzzled posted. I guess I didnt search back far enough. I'll be checking into that Saturday. |
Dktechguy112
| Posted on Thursday, May 24, 2012 - 02:05 pm: |
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+1 on EBR ECM, I have the EBR ECM with the FMF tune and it is amazing, the pipe and ECM are the best mods I have done. with the EBR ECM: I get 2-4 more mpg the bike runs 5-10 degrees cooler sounds amazing hauls a$$! |
Crowley
| Posted on Thursday, May 24, 2012 - 02:46 pm: |
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After trying a few systems on my bike, the perfect set up for me is the EBR ecu (set up for a Drummer) and an Albert can. I spent a while sitting by the side of the road while my mate nailed it past me several times. Not only does it sound nice for a Helicon (the other cans sounded a bit smee) it sounds a whole lot better than my 1198 on full Termis - but not quite as loud |
2734
| Posted on Thursday, May 24, 2012 - 03:10 pm: |
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Thanks for the report Dktechguy112.That gives me hope ! I'm not real keen on the sound right now but that's most likely due to the thing not running right. As far as looks I'm 50/50. I'd like to get some sort of dual outlet can on it. I'm getting either an EBR belly pan or an Eskalation pan so the can itself will be covered up anyways. I most likely will get the headers and mid pipe ceramic coated though so they look nice. I'm considering selling of the flexi glass fairings to fund new paint as well. They cover up that awesome looking engine too much for me. But for now I just need to get the thing running right. |
Nuts4mc
| Posted on Thursday, May 24, 2012 - 03:10 pm: |
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bought mine home from the salvage yard about 2 yrs ago: if you don't have cheap voltmeter buy one ( I like the digital ones from WalMart)...low battery voltage can cause some of the symptoms you are describing...( try trickle chging the batt overnite) a) chk the voltage at the battery (not running)(12.5 to 13 VDC = new Battery, less then 12VDC....? may be time for a new batt....if you can afford it - buy a Shorai Li-Ion type) b) chk voltage (running 12+ volts - 14VDC)....why??? c) the 2008 version has a parasitic voltage drain due to the instr. panel...IMPORTANT use the kill switch to turn off the bike - it will stop the parasitic drain on the battery....if yours doesn't do it then you may have a 2009 Inst panel ( if it has a "what gear am i in?" display=2009) d) buy a new battery - the HD brand is designed to work with the cables -- if you don't be prepared to insulate the (+) terminal - it comes close to the frame (which is grounded) d) chk wheel bearings - they go bad ( orange colored seals = possible problem) e) chk belt ( crashes usually pick up gravel and get trapped in the belt) f) under the seat look for a big connector with yellow wires - are the wires nice and yellow or are they looking a bit toasted = charging issues/bad connection ( see the charging issues sub forum /subject area) g) chk voltage regulator mounting - it uses the frame as a heat sink - the hardware should be nice and tight....if it's not the VR could be toast Good luck...and hang on.... the bike is very fun - especially when it's running right! |
2734
| Posted on Thursday, May 24, 2012 - 03:28 pm: |
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Nuts, I rode it home 110 miles yesterday.It was a low speed drop from the looks of it. At speed the Coolant temps stayed between 177* and 183* and the Volts stayed between 13.7-14.0. The Batt seems fine and cranks right up after sitting over night but I'll check with a meter. I'll shut the bike off at the switch and not the key from here on out. I'll look at the wires when I Denoid it this weekend. It has orange seals so I'll put that on the list. It appears I have an 09 cluster. |
D_adams
| Posted on Thursday, May 24, 2012 - 04:12 pm: |
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Coated race headers, just a little larger than stock. Definitely changed the way it sounds even from my other systems. Coated dual exit pipe. No, I don't have a price for all of it yet. Still working on a detail with the front header. Not enough hours in the day. |
2734
| Posted on Thursday, May 24, 2012 - 04:19 pm: |
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Thats a great looking muffler ! |
2734
| Posted on Thursday, May 24, 2012 - 08:42 pm: |
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So with ECMspy I can tune my stock ECM ? |
2734
| Posted on Thursday, May 31, 2012 - 05:04 pm: |
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Correction to my inital post: These are EBR Fairings not Flexiglass. Has anybody used a belly pan with these fairings and if so which one? The EBR one looks like a seperate piece all together |
Rogue_biker
| Posted on Thursday, May 31, 2012 - 07:56 pm: |
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If I'm not mistaken, the EBR bellypan will not allow you to use the sidestand. I could be wrong. Confirm with others. |
D_adams
| Posted on Thursday, May 31, 2012 - 08:02 pm: |
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Pretty much all of them require trimming if you want to use the sidestand. |
2734
| Posted on Friday, June 01, 2012 - 09:45 am: |
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I saw that. I found a few pics of it but not one with the fairings and belly pan together. It doesnt look like it will mesh well with the side fairings anyway. At least not like Flexiglass, Airtech and so on. I think I might sell off the side fairings and just go with the belly pan from EBR or Eskaklaton but the later is pricey. The color scheme Im going for will work better with out the side fairings I think. (Message edited by 273-4 on June 01, 2012) |
99buellx1
| Posted on Friday, June 01, 2012 - 11:07 am: |
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Those Buell factory accessory side fairings are not intended to work in harmony with the EBR race belly pan. |