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Dhays1775
Posted on Saturday, April 07, 2012 - 12:29 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

When I did my valve service, I had to replace every single shim. I measured my clearances three or four times before pulling each shim. All of them were way WAY too tight. The exhaust specs should be between 0.010 and 0.013. Intake specs should be 0.006 and 0.009. The exhaust clearances measured between 0.005 and 0.007 on all four exhaust valves. Intake measured between 0.003 and 0.005.

So, here's my question: Is this normal?

Every engine wears differently, but really?

I do know that after I was done, the engine revved WAY easier! Maybe the drag on the cams was slowing it down. I noticed a LOT more power. Hell, I'm able to power wheelie a little bit of fourth gear!!
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Duphuckincati
Posted on Saturday, April 07, 2012 - 12:46 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

How many miles, and how hard do you run your bike?
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Dhays1775
Posted on Saturday, April 07, 2012 - 12:57 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Got the bike with 6,969 miles on it, now has 12,805. Put almost 400 miles on it since the service. Average 22-30 mpg due to how much I wring the throttle. I ride it pretty hard 85% of the time. But why would all 8 be so tight?
Don't tell Froggy how bad my mileage is, I do it on purpose.
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Fast1075
Posted on Saturday, April 07, 2012 - 05:55 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Did you do other maintenance when you did the valve adjustment? Change the worn plugs?, service the air filter? Make some other mods?
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D_adams
Posted on Saturday, April 07, 2012 - 07:33 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

As the engine wears in, the valves will typically recede up into the valve seat and get tighter. How fast that happens depends on a lot of different variables, hard operation will accelerate that a little bit.

I'd say it's normal based on my own experience. I worked as a bike mechanic a few years ago and saw this quite a bit. My 1125 needed 7 of 8 replaced when I did my first one. The second one is overdue but I'm waiting on some materials before I tear into it.
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Zac4mac
Posted on Saturday, April 07, 2012 - 11:13 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

My first check at 12k all were tight but in spec.
At the next check, 26k, I replaced 6 of 8.

Z
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Dhays1775
Posted on Saturday, April 07, 2012 - 12:12 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I figured that would be the general consensus, but I thought I'd ask. I kept the shims I pulled out so I could measure them against the shims I put in and the gap I know I have. The place i was working on my bike had a dial caliper that was a joke. Never gave the same reading twice. So I went and bought a new feeler gauge set and measured it that way. I got pretty good at guessing what size shim needed to go in based on the known size of the shim in the bike. Seemed to work out perfectly fine.

I just thought it was a little strange to have them that far out of whack.
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Zac4mac
Posted on Saturday, April 07, 2012 - 08:49 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

They don't seem to wear quickly.
Mine changed very little from 12-25k miles.
Plugs have been toast each time tho so keep an eye on them.

Get yourself an accurate bow micrometer and you can do the valves forever.
If you're careful, you can lap old shims and re-use them.
I suspect from what I've seen, the gap should be good for 25k miles or better if placed @ mid-loose.

Z
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Dhays1775
Posted on Saturday, April 07, 2012 - 09:26 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Fast, the only other things I did besides the shims were new plugs and cleaned the filter.

Zack, thanks for the tip on the micrometer. Any excuse to buy tools is a valid one!

The wife gives me hell for modding and fixing and changing everything I can on my bikes. BUT, she knows I would never sell them. So it seems to me like the perfect reason to make everything exactly how I want it.
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Zac4mac
Posted on Saturday, April 07, 2012 - 10:35 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Pawn shops are great.
Starrett, Browne & Sharpe and Mitutoya are the best.
Some Chinese actually work.
Calipers are good "yardsticks" but a good bow mic is good to the tenths.

Z
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Cataract2
Posted on Sunday, April 08, 2012 - 03:05 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Dhays, get yourself a Hotcams shim set. It will help keep you from having to go to the dealer to get the new shims. The Hotcams for the VROD is the one you need as the 1125 uses the VROD shims.
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Dhays1775
Posted on Sunday, April 08, 2012 - 11:35 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Cataract2, I bought the hotcams shim set about two months before I needed them. It was awesome. The only thing I was a little worried about was the fact that it came with 3 of each size. What if I need four? I didn't need four. Hahaha. Didn't have to go to the stealership once. I did find a pinched o-ring on the screen and called around to find a replacement for it. That little thing was $10.50 at the dealer. I bought a 419 piece metric o-ring set for $16. Now I'm set for life.
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Rogue_biker
Posted on Sunday, April 08, 2012 - 02:31 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I replaced 7 of 8 valves too at 24k miles. All were right at the spec side and two were tight. Only one was lose.

I also noticed the engine revved faster and runs smoother but that could also be that I put an EBR Race ECM on it, fresh plugs, and air filter. Both the latter needed replacement badly.

I bought my shims at the dealership. It was easier and they had all the shims I need. Plus they were helpful and friendly THAT TIME. It all depends on who is at the parts counter.
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Fast1075
Posted on Tuesday, April 10, 2012 - 07:09 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

The performance improvement is from the fresh plugs and clean air filter. The slightly tight valve clearance actually gave you a tiny bit more valve lift and duration (a trick we used in racing classes that required stock cams). I seriously doubt the valves were tight enough to hold the valves off the seat without burning a valve.
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