| Author | Message | ||
     Boogiman1981 |
okay so i have my 08R torn apart for a cam change and thought to insulate frame while it was apart and when i was cleaning the frame to adhear the insulation to i found some damage.   | ||
| Boogiman1981 |
thoughts? i had a modified stock can on for a while and when i went back to an unmolested stock can it was a big challange to get the headd pipes into the can. to me it felt like the rear hedder had changed its shape. when i have taken the hedders off the engine before the studs didnt give much play. so now what? | ||
| Boogiman1981 |
anybody? Bueller... | ||
| Reepicheep |
Any problems with motor mounts or anything? Seems like the frame ought not to get rubbed... | ||
| Avalaugh |
Were the headers taken off for that Wrap ? Loosen the nuts cylinder head end, this will give you a bit of play, place frame over engine and align the exhaust do as you have a bit more clearance, somethings not right there. Possible bent/warped header ? | ||
| Boogiman1981 |
motor mounts all appear to be okay. i'm leaning towards bent/warped hedder due to a modded exhaust i ran for a while. i don't recall there being much play on the hedder studs but will def explore that. just such a pita to deal with the rear one. | ||
| Rogue_biker |
I replaced my stock can with an almost new one from another bike (the original was beat up with a huge dent from a rock). Putting that stock can from another bike was a bit of a challenge when mating the headers to the collector part of the can. I used two jacks, one to raise the rear of the can then the front. Once the bolt holes lined up at the rear I bolted those on but did not tighten. Up front was a slow process of slowly raising the front muffler in 1 inch increments, aligning collectors with header, raising it some more, up until the holes ALMOST lined up and the muffler refused to move up further without raising the front of the bike. At that point I had to take a large Philips screw driver and push it into the right side bolt holes to align it/raise the front of the can that last 1/2" or so. It was a slow, but deliberate, back and forth, of align, raise, align, raise, and so on. Once I could see through the bolt holes, I carefully threaded the bolts. Once all bolts are in, tighten it up. It's important you keep the rear bolt lose and not tighten the header clamps until everything is bolted up front. Patience is the key, plus having a hydraulic jack and a small rolling seat that allowed me to go from one side to the other repeatedly made the job go easier. It took me an hour to get the new can on. Patience, patience, patience, and don't give up! LOL! | ||
| Rogue_biker |
I don't know how you got that frame damage on top though. That is the top of the frame right? Not the bottom? I can't tell from the picture. | ||
| Boogiman1981 |
Bottom of frame where rear pipe crosses | ||
| Rogue_biker |
Crap. That's why the header has that contact mark that burned thru the heat wrap? That is very strange. I would look for close up pictures of 1125R's showing the original location of that header and compare to yours. The header and frame should not touch unless either bends or header was pushed up. Check rear header mount. | ||
| Boogiman1981 |
yes to all of the above. if anyone has any close pics I'd appreciate it | ||
| Rogue_biker |
Look at Buell Photo shoot thread and Google "1125r Images". I think the official Buell photos with high resolution profile views will even pop up on there. Good reference points. Another good reference site is Motorcycle USA website and look under Motorcycle Reviews and then under the Buell brand. The official photos should be there. | ||
| Boogiman1981 |
well it looks like there is maybe at most 3/16" clearance can anyone please confirm that? | ||
| Kenm123t |
3 /16ths to a little more based on the corner tangent I looked with a light and Mirror At the corner of the casting right where yours rubbed its 3/16ths plus | ||
| Boogiman1981 |
Thanks Ken |
