Author |
Message |
Djb102954
| Posted on Sunday, March 25, 2012 - 08:10 am: |
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I am having new tires put on 2008 1125r. I am told that the front brake rotor needs to be removed to put tire on. One of the bolts that holds the rotor to the rim does not come out. Told that it was standard to use loctite on these bolts. Has anybody else run into this and what what did you do? |
Brumbear
| Posted on Sunday, March 25, 2012 - 08:53 am: |
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GET THAT out of there they are fools!!!!!! The rotor does not need to come off!!!!! |
Rpm4x4
| Posted on Sunday, March 25, 2012 - 09:07 am: |
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Leave the rotor on, take the caliper off and swing it out of the way. |
Zac4mac
| Posted on Sunday, March 25, 2012 - 10:17 am: |
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When it's time to remove the rotor(NOT for a tire change) you have to heat the bolts and it helps to use an impact driver. Best way I've heard is to heat a sacrificial Torx tip to red and hold it in the bolt head a few seconds. Immediately hit with impact and they come off pretty easy. At the very least, replace the wave washers, better to go with the new set from EBR. Zack |
Sprintst
| Posted on Sunday, March 25, 2012 - 10:29 am: |
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Rotor doesn't have to come off Caliper doesn't have to come off I've changed a number already, as well as doing brake pads, w/out removing the caliper |
Boogiman1981
| Posted on Sunday, March 25, 2012 - 11:26 am: |
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+1 to not removing caliper or rotor. I have never needed to heat the caliper mount bolts or actually any bolts nuts etc on this bike or any other bikes I've worked on. I would steer clear of heat except as a final resort to avoid replacing the wheel/rotor assembly. |
Buellmojo
| Posted on Sunday, March 25, 2012 - 12:28 pm: |
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+2 to not removing caliper or rotor. Just be patient while removing the wheel, it will come out, this can be a pain the first time, after you figure it out, it is simple! |
Pmjolly
| Posted on Sunday, March 25, 2012 - 01:05 pm: |
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OMG, if they took out the rotor bolts, you now need NEW rotor mounting hardware! Go somewhere else and never look back! Get a service manual, and find a mechanic who is willing to read it. |
Duphuckincati
| Posted on Sunday, March 25, 2012 - 03:23 pm: |
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There is a good link here I was not able to find on front wheel removal with the caliper left in place. Main thing is to remove the fender, use a front stand at the bottom of the triple clamp, move wheel back (I think with steering at a bit of an angle) to clear caliper and then just rotate the caliper/lower fork leg away from the wheel. And as the Brits say, Bob's yer uncle. |
Timebandit
| Posted on Sunday, March 25, 2012 - 04:04 pm: |
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"There is a good link here I was not able to find on front wheel removal with the caliper left in place." I couldn't find it either. That would be a good thread to list on the page that contains important information for new owners. |
Jdugger
| Posted on Sunday, March 25, 2012 - 06:25 pm: |
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I still think it's easier to drop the caliper (thus leaving the front fender on), but I've seen both methods work well. |
Timebandit
| Posted on Sunday, March 25, 2012 - 06:40 pm: |
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I haven't seen the video, so I don't yet understand how that method is better. What's the downside to removing the caliper mounting bolts and hanging the caliper off to the side on a wire? |
Jdugger
| Posted on Sunday, March 25, 2012 - 07:12 pm: |
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None that I know of... |
Cycledoc59
| Posted on Sunday, March 25, 2012 - 10:45 pm: |
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I was in a shop last week where a mechanic was struggling to replace the rotor after the owner of the shop helped him get the axle back in... I told the owner it was not only not necessary, but could cause a problem with buggered bolts/etc. I don't think he appreciated my input as he mumbled "thanks".... |