| Author | Message | ||
     Rogue_biker |
I just completed my bike's 24k mile service, along with a few upgrades. New ceramic coated muffler, Erik Buell ECM, and a fresh detail job!  Not only does she look fresh but she runs better than new! This is better than a new bike because she has no monthly payments, runs almost as good, is unique, and I know & understand her inner workings better than ever!  | ||
| Rogue_biker |
Oh what the heck! Here's another picture of her. My 1125R feels like she has a 2nd lease on life.  | ||
| Rogue_biker |
For a while she was apart like this with her rusty muffler, and her engine being held up precariously by a single, weak scissor jack. These were dark days.  | ||
| Boogiman1981 |
Cool deal | ||
| Fio835 |
good for you man. Here's to the next 24k! | ||
| Brumbear |
Nice  | ||
| Dannybuell |
Nice job! what is mounted up front by the dash? | ||
| Zac4mac |
She's beautiful. Been a loooong time since Loretta looked like that.(stock and clean) Next time you pull the front wheel or do brakes, pull your caliper and route the hose outside the fork tube. There was a recall for that, check your dealer to see if they will do it. It was a Safety Campaign, so it may still be good. Found it, Safety Recall Code 0838, p/n J04926 rev 2009-06-12 with kit #s H2531.1AM(Our bike) and H2531.4AN(XB12Ss) Zack | ||
| Rogue_biker |
DannyBuell, the mount up front is a Ram Mount for my radar detector. It bolts up to the front brake reservoir clamps via an adapter. I've used this set up on my Firebolt and other bikes and they work! You can switch the top part with all kinds of adapters from platforms, to I-Pod, to GPS, to even cup holders! LOL! | ||
| Rogue_biker |
Zac, thanks. I didn't know about that Safety Recall! When I got the bike the brake line was mounted on the outside so I re-routed it back inside like my Firebolt. I thought the dealer mounted it wrong! Do you know the reason for the recall? I regularly use Protect All on her bodywork, and wipe on McGuire's automotive Trim Protector on the chassis, wheels, and all black plastic components (like mirror housings, turn signals, rear fender, etc.) after every wash. I wash her once a month but polish in between. It's a labor of love though. The new muffler makes a big difference but I'm sure in time it will look a bit grungy again, but hopefully not as bad as the stock muffler looked. | ||
| Two_seasons |
Rogue: The reason for the front brake line re-route was so the braided line doesn't start cutting into the fork leg. Good job on the rotate. You want to be "the man" for that at my "how-to workshops" being held out of my garage for Homecoming? Would you have done the frame off instead now that you've R/R using the rotate method? | ||
| Pmjolly |
The recall said the brake line could contact the front tire under heavy braking and cause damage to the line causing possible loss of braking. The fastest, easiest way to fix it is to take the whole assembly off the handlebar as one unit, and pass it down through the fairing and forks, then back up on the correct side of the forks. You'll also need to take the little hose P clamp off on the lower triple tree. | ||
| Rogue_biker |
Two seasons, "Homecoming" as in Wisconsin? If it's in Southern California, I would be more than happy to attend.  I believe the Frame-Off method has a few benefits that make it worthwhile. It gives you a chance to really R&R the whole bike with the frame off. I mean, you can go ahead and check all the electrical connections, clean the engine, replace worn parts that are otherwise difficult to get to, etc. Most importantly, having the frame off means lots of elbow/wrench room when checking/adjusting valves. This is the way to go if you have the time, garage space, and the occasional helping hand when you lift that frame/front end up. Would I do the frame off? It depends on how old my bike is and its condition. Maybe at 36k miles. However, just by rotating the engine and taking my time (even with a lot of bitching due to inexperience with the procedure), I did get to improve a few things, and correct a couple of areas, and unfortunately, discover one or two broken things that went wrong probably the first time the dealer did the major service. For example I discovered a broken mounting tab on the fuel line connection. Check it out: I was able to install these heat shields on the frame, in addition to cleaning up the whole area.  | ||
| Two_seasons |
I wonder why Buell did not grind down those seams on the frame? Reminds me of when someone with a soldering job puts a big blob on thinking that it will be a better connection. Did you use the V-Rod shims? When the frame is removed, it is really just a gas tank with a smaller duty of being a frame? Or is it integral to the rigidity of the bike? As you can tell, I've never done it before. Did you tighten your stator nut to 300 ft lbs while you were doing PM's? Did you use all new gaskets? Thanks for the help...Steve | ||
| Two_seasons |
Another question...what are you using for polish and wax? | ||
| Rogue_biker |
Two Seasons, V-Rod shims do work but my local dealer stocked (believe it or not) the 1125R shims. So I bought those instead. Plus they were really helpful (again, believe it or not). LOL! So I gave them the business. The "fat" part of the frame (up front nearest the steering head) is a big hollow part that carries the fuel. However, the overall rigidity of the frame is due to the massive height of the frame and thickness of the head tube and rear portion near the shock mount area. The engine bears a large part of the rigidity too. I did not tighten the stator nut to 300 ft. lbs. Service Manual did not call for it. My torque wrench doesn't even go up that high! The only new gaskets I used were for the exhaust headers and the stator nut cover O-ring, which the Service Manual specified. All other gaskets were in good condition and were re-usable. | ||
| Rogue_biker |
Cleaning solvents: For the wash: MrMoto Wash - the pink bottle at Cycle Gear. Hose down bike, spray the pink stuff, use small sponge to agitate, hose off (carefully). After washing, use Protect All for the painted bodywork - spray on, spread with towel, wipe off with clean, dry towel: http://www.amazon.com/Protect-All-Cleaner-Polish-P rotectant/dp/B0002UHWEK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=133 2720609&sr=8-1 Mequiar's Natual Shine Protectant for the wheels, frame, all unpainted plastic parts like mirror housings, rear turn signals, rear license plate holder, rear fenders and heat covers, etc. Just spray it on a damp towel, wipe on the parts to coat. http://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G4116-Protectant-Na tural-Shine/dp/B0009IQXCC | ||
| Gschuette |
Nice pics. The 2008s look so much better on overcast days. | ||
| Zac4mac |
Rogue - V-Rod shims do work but my local dealer stocked (believe it or not) the 1125R shims. The 1125 uses V-Rod shims, same numbers in the parts catalogs.. Z | ||
| Tq_freak |
Rouge- Were did you find the heat reflective tape? I'll be doing this to my CR in a few months and would like to start stock piling stuff like this so I can do it all right with out having to wait. | ||
| Rogue_biker |
American Sportbike sells the roll of heat shields. They are very easy to cut into shape and apply. Just make sure you clean the surface you plan on sticking them on to. After hearing the fuel boiling in there during a hot day ride, I figured this was a good idea. | ||
| Rogue_biker |
LOL! All pictures of vehicles look good when there are no shadows (overcast days). The exceptions are sunrise and sunset. Avoid pics with strong shadows like mid-day sun. If you must take pictures with shadows, use the flash to fill in the shadows. It works for people too. Shadows make faces look old and accentuates eye bags, droopy cheeks, double chins.....LOL! | ||
| Blake |
Steve, >>> I wonder why Buell did not grind down those seams on the frame? Short answer: To achieve/maintain adequate strength. Longer answer: Aluminum alloy welding is not like welding mild steel, where the weld filler metal (70 KSI) is equal to or stronger than the steel parts (36-50 KSI). With heat aluminum alloys, it's almost always the opposite (the weld filler metal's strength is much lower than that of the parent metal being welded), so you need a lot more filler metal to achieve full strength. Thus big protruding backing welds on aluminum but joint welds are necessary. | ||
| Blake |
Awesome job Jordan! Ever tried to clean up the headers too? Dana (BadS1) showed me the easy way to do that, Eagle 1 metal polish. Almost miraculous in effect on the headers. | ||
| Rogue_biker |
Thanks Blake. Great tip! I was going to have the headers ceramic coated too but I was too lazy to remove them. I will use the Eagle 1 metal Polish. Anything would be an improvement over the discoloration. | ||
| Dktechguy112 |
Rogue_biker, "I did not tighten the stator nut to 300 ft. lbs. Service Manual did not call for it. My torque wrench doesn't even go up that high!" You should, EBR has said that the stator nut should be torqued to 300 ft-lbs. There have been some people that have had the stator nut loosen up on them. | ||
| Rogue_biker |
DKtechguy, I'm going to have to buy the proper torque wrench for that. How the heck do you keep the motor from turning as you tighten with that much force? | ||
| Duphuckincati |
You need the crank locking tool from ebr, and see if you can borrow/rent/have mechanic come by with a big torque wrench from an 18-wheeler repair place. These things are like four feet long or longer and cost somewhere around $750 on up. |
