| Author | Message | ||
     Nillaice |
so after engine re-build; i've bled the clutch 4 times in the last week because am still getting: crappy feel at the lever, a late friction zone, and have one HELL of a time getting the damned thing into neutral when stopped. and just when i thought i had it right, the friction zone still seems to keep moving in the lever action. i have been riding with the clutch lever adjusted waaaay out to make sure that i can disengage it. also keeping the rev's up while slowly letting the clutch out (like a noob), because i never know where the friction zone is going to be from stoplight to stoplight. i teflon taped the bleed screw at the clutch cover, and am not getting any more bubbles out from there. i tried bleeding it on the kickstand and on a rear stand. but am still getting crap-tastic lever action. any body have some words of wisdom or different methods i should try to bleed the clutch? -thanks | ||
| Jdugger |
Bleed at the banjo on the mc.. | ||
| Nillaice |
that sounds like it's gonna be messy, but i'll give it a good college try. | ||
| Nuts4mc |
1) tap the line especially between the 90 degree turns down by the air intake (under the fairing) - a small rubber mallet works well 2) use aluminum foil to protect plastics and paint 3) water in a spray bottle can be used to wash off spilled brake fluid that may find it's way past the Aluminum foil 4) reverse bleed it - but you have to have a second set of eyes to watch the lever's reservoir....a hypo used to inject flavorings into meat - use it with brake fluid and rig up some tubing between the clutch bleed and the hypo - and inject the brake fluid in slowly as it will fill the reservoir quickly and that second set of eyes may not be paying attention. 5) ty-wrap the lever back to the bars - it works on brakes as the pads have something solid to grip - I don't know if the clutch springs will offer enough resistance...basically you're trying to leave the reservoir "open" to the hydraulic fluid so the air will eventually make it out. 6) rebuild the clutch lever cylinder(master) I believe it's 14mm same as many rice burners. 7) have patience - don't rush it 8) if you've rebuilt the engine ....did you install new clutch plates?..maybe the plates are worn and you're finally realizing it. good luck | ||
| Jdugger |
Bleeding at the top banjo is easy. Pump the lever a few times and HOLD it in. Gently loosen the top banjo. You are "burping" it, not bleeding it in the traditional sense. Make sure you have the banjo tightened again before you loose pressure in the lever. Repeat a few times, always making sure you have pumped the lever and are holding it in. The only real fluid you will get anywhere with this technique is if there is air in the line, the first couple of times it will tend to "spit", sort of like what happens on a sink faucet when there's air. Once you have the air out of there, you will only be opening to the point where under pressure a very small droplet slowly forms. A simple paper towel works fine. This works on the brakes, too. You may have noticed that higher performance MCs have a top bleeder on the MC. The Buell OEM stuff does not, so this is a way to help get that air out. |
