| Author | Message | ||
     Kruizen |
I started having issues with the battery charging and need some help: Details: hadn't been on a charger for a month, not run, took it out yesterday, started it up battery light came on then turned off, took it out and flogged it for about 50 miles(6k-9krpms 10-120mph) no lights looked good 13 or so the whole time. Came home parked for 1 hr then took it to work, stop and go, on the way battery light came on showed 11.8 on screen, no fans. 09 9K miles No accessories original stator, regulator, battery No harness update installed(no comments please personal choice) Tested stator-not grounded and output between legs tested at correct levels at idle with regulator not hooked up battery was 12.9 after a full night of charging started and ran the bike for a while battery dropped to 12.1 pretty much stayed there, fans didn't turn on until after the key was turned off even with coolant temp of 195 with bike running tried to test amps off of regulator and measured .29 at idle, battery was at 12.53 not hooked up to regulator Please tell me if I am doing something wrong with the trouble shooting, not about how I have the bike set up. What I am seeing is that I either have a battery issue(haven't put it on a load test) or the regulator is bad. (Message edited by kruizen on March 03, 2012) | ||
| Timebandit |
there is a really good flow diagram for how to troubleshoot the electrical system, it's published in the electrical diagnostics manual. follow those directions and there will be no question about what is wrong; deviate from the prescribed troubleshooting technique and it's hard to determine the value of your observations. everything needs to be done in a defined, stepwise pattern to make sure the diagnostics are valid. the first step is to fully charge and then LOAD TEST the battery before proceeding with any other tests. the battery must be good (pass a load test) before you can do any other diagnostics. simply putting it on an overnight charger isn't good enough to confirm that the battery is good. | ||
| Timebandit |
I guess there's another way to look at what I said. The flowcharts are more helpful when you start at the top. You skipped the load test, so the battery is still questionable. Questionable batteries can really screw up diagnostics, so there's a reason that verifying the battery is the first step. I wouldn't skip it. Your stator tested OK, but the system output voltage output is still weak. This means that you either have a bad vreg or an excessive load on the system. A bad battery can place an excessive load on the system, especially if there's a cell-to-cell short. Don't think you'd get normal resting voltages if that were the case, though. Any other short circuit (or low resistance circuit) could also cause the same problem; especially if you have an electrical system that has been modified to bypass fuses or add circuits. That complicates things, which is why I recommended following the diagnostic flow charts. I think you're right that it's either the load or the vreg, but there's no way to be certain that load equals battery without either load testing the battery or swapping a known good battery into the bike for the vreg test. I think pulling the battery, charging it out of the bike, and taking it somewhere for a load test will give you the most expedient and inexpensive diagnostic answer. Lots of auto shops do free load testing on carry-in batteries, like AutoZone, even Wal-Mart. (Message edited by timebandit on March 03, 2012) | ||
| Kruizen |
I only have the electronics manual in electronic form and skipped right over the flow charts because they didn't load right away so they looked like blank pages. I plan on taking the battery over tomorrow. AFter throwing it on the charger again tonight out of the bike. Will walk thru the flow chart tomorrow after that. I know enough about electrical systems to be a danger to myself and the bike. More balls than brains sometimes. | ||
| Kruizen |
Well battery checked out fine today. Going to swap out the regulator tomorrow so fingers crossed. | ||
| Georgehitch17 |
Let me know how this goes my bike is doing the exact same thing and I just put in a brand new battery and my stator has less than 1k miles on it! I have the harness but it acts the same way without it on there. | ||
| Kruizen |
Batter checked out fine Replaced regualtor and no change Re-checked stator not grounded, and had issues getting consistent readings on the conducitivity test, using an old bench multi Re-read the output test, I did do that test wrong, so re-did it and the output was non-existent. Ordered a new kit from EBR, with 2nd day, hopefully it will get here so I can do the first track day on the 17th. But I'll tell you that the $900 puts a pretty big dent in the track day funds  | ||
| Jumpinjewels |
Kruizen, I'll be ordering my new kit from EBR in about 3 weeks. I have 2 track days coming up in May (with Jason Pridmore) and I want to make sure my bike doesn't die while at the track. I've been saving my pennies (lots of them) so my hit shouldn't be too bad. My hubby put a new regulator on as well so hopefully this will be THE fix. I love this bike and would hate to lose it. | ||
| Kruizen |
Ordered today around 10:30am eastern, got my PayPal receipt but nothing from EBR. Little concerning. Paid for 2 day shipping. Hope the extra expense is worth it. I've already got the bike torn down to the rotor and plan on removing that Wednesday. In anticipation of the parts being here by the end of the week. Ordered new rotor but from HD and a new gasket that should be here by Friday. I'll post pictures when I get the kit from EBR | ||
| Kruizen |
still nothing from EBR regarding my order. I eamiled last night to confirm that they had received the order. At the least I would have expected a simple automated email stating that the order had been received. | ||
| Zac4mac |
Try to be patient, they are in the middle of Superbike Race Season, EBR has 2 1190s in the mix and there is a privateer 1190RS to support also. You WILL get your order. Zack Oh yeah, all 3 should be in the Daytona 200 on the 15th or 16th... (Message edited by zac4mac on March 06, 2012) | ||
| Kruizen |
I'm sure I'll get my order, the web-site says it can take up to 2 days to fill orders(fine) I paid for 2nd day shipping so at the worst I should expect my order on Friday(not the end of the world) at this point. My issue is that so far ZERO communication from them about even receiving my order. They have choosen to be a retailer, and that includes all (hassels) that go with it-including customer service. I don't want to get bitchy about this but I get better communication from my Harley Dealer about orders. There is a reason I paid $60+ is that I have a schedule and places I need to be with the bike. Zac what I'm reading is that my time isn't as important as theirs??? | ||
| Nillaice |
they are kinda under-manned, if you ask me. recently i heard they were looking to hire. it seems like any event for them is an all-hands deal. i was getting quick, and frequent responses from them late last year, but i haven't heard a peep from them since. it's not like they are ignoring just you or your money. it still takes some one to physically walk out to the shelf and box-up the items for shipping. having seen EBR last winter, you might have a diff perspective i'm not saying that your time isn't worth the $ you paid, but that they must have something big going on that is keepeing them busy. otherwise you would be reading your order confirmation instead of this post. if your order doesn't ship tomorrow, give them a call and ask them if they could make sure it gets to you in time for your track event. i've found that they are very 'track-freindly' | ||
| Zac4mac |
Kruizen - no not at all, you ARE important to them. There's just not a lot of them to go around. They HAVE to do well at the races. period. Well said Nillaice. Hang in there. | ||
| Froggy |
Kruizen, check your spam folder, I can't recall if I got my confirmation emails immediately or not, but either way I did get an email after each of my orders. | ||
| Kruizen |
Not in spam folder, I called and left a voice mail, no one is answering the phones either. Matt, that's the deal how am I supposed to even know if it is shipped? Yes it takes a person to fill the order but it doesn't take a highly skilled person. Hire some HS kid after school to come in put parts in boxes and give them some generic email formats to send with info, or have a system where they click sent and a email is automatically sent with info. I own my own business and have done everything from sales to managing businesses that have $20M+budgets and the one thing I always drilled into all of my managers and sales teams was that they had to respond to customers within 1 day and if it was early in the day by the end of the day. That helped ensure that sales weren't lost, they could even have their admins call back and get details but at least the customer knew we were working on it for them. I've put a call into a company that says they have rewound stators, we'll see if they call me back today. | ||
| Nillaice |
well damn. good counter-point. it sounds like EBR has their focus elsewhere and customer service is lacking | ||
| Kruizen |
Well after calling every other hour, someone answered the phone and confirmed that it was shipped yesterday. a simple email would have removed 90% of this tread. I spoke with the stator/regualtor company 35 minutes after they opened. Looks like they might be interested in buying my old core. Not going that direction until after I have my hands on the EBR kit. | ||
| Kruizen |
Got the EBR kit, going to install tonight. Looking at it, where is the orifice located? "To further reduce stator temperatures, we have added an orifice that directs cooling oil at the stator. An excellent upgrade for your late model 1125!" | ||
| Nillaice |
it's on the inside of the rotor where it fits to the crank splines at the 'missing tooth' | ||
| Kruizen |
WOW that is tiny. I had to shine a light through it to tell it was actually an open hole. | ||
| Nillaice |
take some pics if you can. EBR doesn't have great pics of it on thier site anymore | ||
| Kruizen |
  I will say that the rotor has much more robust side walls that the rotor off of the 09.  | ||
| Jumpinjewels |
That's great that you got your kit today. I ordered mine today and hopefully will get it sometime next week. The only problem is that the crankshaft locking tool is back ordered. Anyone out there have one that I could buy/borrow? | ||
| Kruizen |
I borrowed the one I used, so i cannot lend it. Had an issue putting it back together tonight with the sprang clutch and getting th rotor on. I will say torque the sprang down off of the bike. The rotor needed some persuasion going on then I needed to get it off because things didn't line up correctly with the starter gear. Had to use a gear puller from autozone to pull it back off. Really freaked me out when it wouldn't come back off, since I didn't have the rotor puller tool. It looks like the outer case is the same I didn't see any difference. | ||
| Timebandit |
When it comes to EBR order fulfilment, it's important to understand the logistical problems they're dealing with. They are a small start-up company, and they don't have a surplus of employees. As someone said already, when they have an event, it's an all-hands-on-deck situation. And with Daytona right around the corner, you've got to think that they're is busy busy busy right now and everyone is at battle stations. They are so short on people that everyone there has to put on multiple hats and do multiple jobs. One of the main design engineers also has to maintain the web site and do the job of fulfilling orders. Communication may be a weak point, and tracking numbers may be non-existent, but in my experience he always fills the orders the same day they're placed, and they always go out the next day. I've seen shipping labels generated at 7 pm on the day that I placed the order. That tells me that the guys are really busy, and when they get their priority-one daytime tasks finished, they're staying late to make sure that the orders get prepped to go out for the UPS guy the next day. I don't think you could ask for better service than that. I think we get a little spoiled when we deal with e-commerce mega-companies like Amazon who provide us with real-time email confirmations and tracking numbers. It's important to remember that that kind of infrastructure costs money. Lots of money. Personally, I'm willing to cut them a lot of slack in this regard, because they are an ultra-small shop that's trying to stay alive in a niche cottage industry. | ||
| Timebandit |
As far as photos go, I understand everyone's curiosity about the oil jet mod, but there's a reason that I haven't posted any photos of my 2012 1190RS rotor with the oil-jet -- I made a promise to Tony that I wouldn't post photos on the internet that would make it possible for someone else to steal EBR's intellectual property and take it into production as a pirated product. Posting photos makes it likely that that will happen. The oil-jet mod is EBR's design, it's their intellectual property, and if people go posting detailed photos about the mod, it's going to be very easy for someone else to start a rotor modification service, and swipe the revenue that should be going to EBR. There have already been discussions on this board by machinists who have expressed their intent to start modifying rotors. My personal recommendation is that if you want the oil jet mod, you should buy it from EBR and not from anyone else. I'll also go so far as to say that you shouldn't post photos on the internet. EBR may not be advertising the service, but it is available. If you really want it and need it, just call them and they will take care of you. | ||
| Timebandit |
FWIW my experience in pulling off the rotor/sprag clutch assembly and putting the new ones on is that it should be EFFORTLESS -- no gear puller required. The hardest part of this job, IMO, is pulling off the case cover, the next hardest part is taking off the crank nut. Everything else should be really EASY. The rotor and the sprag clutch should lift right off of the crankshaft without any resistance. And they should slip right back on just as easily. You might need to spin the rotor on the sprag clutch to achieve proper alignment so that you get a slip fit, but NO COAXING should be required to put the rotor back on. If you have to "persuade" the rotor back on, double-check your alignment, as something is not right. If you need a gear puller to get it back off, chances are that you've got something mis-aligned and jammed into place with all the unnecessary coaxing. If you need to apply force, chances are something is going wrong. Double check your alignment and everything should go on/come off with ease. HTH. | ||
| Kruizen |
I've stated my position regarding their service. My complaint was communication. All I asked for was "we got your order" UPS has a great service, THEY will email the shipping information, to multiple emails(like mine) when the label is generated as part of their service. Nothing extra for EBR to do, and I would have been a happy camper because I would have commincation about my order. Noticed that someone had etched the Buell logo off of the inside of the cover. Cannot say that drilling a hole through something is really high tech, super top secret technology. That is not the only portion of the kit that is different. If someone can do it from a picture, more power to them. Capitalism at its best, if someone with better customer service and pricing offers the service, who do you think will have the customers? Haven't seen anything on their web-site that they are even offering the service. Just forum posts(know how reliable those are) Lined up correct all three times I had to pull it back off(with puller) because the starter gear didn't line up correctly. If it is always effortless why did they make a specific puller to remove the rotor? Yes I did mess up in locking the crankshaft in the wrong position, and putting the rotor on and not lining up the sprang clutch screw holes, resulting in me having to remove, rotate, relock, remove the rotor and reinsert. 14.2 at idle and test run today. great numbers entire ride, highway and stop and go. fans stayed on longer after shut down, than I remember in a long time. | ||
| Finedaddy1 |
Timebandit-- Did you only do the rotor mod? Kruizen-- Please keep us posted on these numbers, 14.2 sounds great to me. I was ready to purchase the complete stator kit and after speaking with someone at EBR, that I will not mention their name, I was advised on doing the rotor modification only. After having this discussion I based my decision on the rotor mod, but If I could get results like Kruizen I would reconsider doing the complete kit. There's no issues on the charging end of my bike, it charges as high as 14.8 to around low 14's while riding, when I first start it up it goes to 14.2 pretty quick. I just want more cooling to the stator, I don't want this thing to burn up again, I'm dying to see what it looks like after the re-wind and Compufire v/r. (Message edited by finedaddy1 on March 11, 2012) |
