| Author | Message | ||
     Paul_b |
So I purchased a 2nd hand 2008 1125R about 4 months ago. Bike has been in shop more often than not so far..... 3 regulators and now the stator. Its only done 8000km total. The shop has agreed to exchange the bike for something else in their range for the same price. Question is, should I go for another 1125? They have a 2009 model that has 825km on it so it is brand new. I'm afraid I'll end up in the same situation in a year or so if I do. The only thing I could think to do is to get a different regulator straight away like this one... http://hildstrom.com/projects/buellregulator/index .html This may protect the stator from overheating long term? I really like the bike but just don't want problems like this..... it really p#$@es me off. Otherwise its back to Japland for a sport bike which I would rather not do. | ||
| Tbowdre |
get the 1125R. The R/R might help but if I were you I would just plan to spend about 1000.00 for an EBR stator/rotor "kit". Then you are done. fixed. forget about. these bikes are damn solid once the charging BS is resolved todd | ||
| Roadrash1 |
Paul B. The FH012AA is a good R/R, but it doesn't really work the way the author of that piece says it does. It still only controls stator output to the system by shunting excess output, but does it better and more reliably than the stock R/R. The EBR kit should give good results. (It seems to replicate the '08 system, which most people had good luck with, but adds some cooling ability also.) I installed the EBR kit on my 2010 1125R, and I think I may add the FH012AA also. | ||
| Zac4mac |
E-mailed EBR yesterday about the possibility of sending a rotor in for the oil-jet mod. In a matter of minutes, I had a positive reply - Christmas Day no less!!! Zach, We will be offering an exchange service to modify the rotors from 1125's. Selling new ones is just too expensive. We cannot promise how long it will extend the stator life, as we do not have the resources to test 1125's for extended mileage, but it does work on the 1190 (although other things are different as well), and it does drop the temperature significantly on 1125 stators. Thank you, Tech Support Erik Buell Racing Sounds to me, if you have an 09-10 model, replace your R/R with a series unit and send your rotor in for the oil-jet mod when EBR makes it available. Then you can finally enjoy a reliable bike and have the option of a bit more comfort with heated gear than my 08. I might even consider going to the later alternator for the extra juice if the combo proves reliable. | ||
| Finedaddy1 |
This sounds great! Thanks for stepping up to the plate and asking, I'm sure many will love this. | ||
| Duphuckincati |
Please excuse me if I've missed something, but is there a series r/r on the market for the 1125? | ||
| Zac4mac |
Larry - not "off the shelf", guys are adapting them like the FH012 shunts. Sounds to me like the series puts less heat into the stator which means it goes to the R/R so mounting and cooling is critical. Keep the stator cool enough and it will live a full life. Z | ||
| Timebandit |
Zac, the rotor mod service is fabulous news! OP, Just to clarify -- the Shitdungeon FH012A is a shunt regulator, not a series regulator. If you are thinking about performing a regulator upgrade to extend your stator life, then YOU DON'T WANT THE FH012A. (The FH012A appears to be a better performing shunt regulator than the OEM Ducati product. Voltage output may be more stable; but that is not necessarily good news -- as far as stators go, the FH012A may be a more efficient killing machine.) Duph, this isn't the first time that question has been asked/answered. I thought everyone was already up to speed. Right now there are two series regulators that people are adapting for 1125 applications. Here's a thread that might help: http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/290 431/660047.html edit: fixed a typo (Message edited by timebandit on December 26, 2011) | ||
| Timebandit |
Zac, by "exchange service" do they mean that: a) you send in your rotor, they machine it, and send the same rotor back, or b) you send in your rotor and get a different rotor back? I'd be good for Plan A but not for Plan B. edit: fixed a silly typo. (Message edited by timebandit on December 26, 2011) | ||
| Dannybuell |
Great news!!! | ||
| Zac4mac |
I assume they mean send in and get back the same rotor. I am on my phone for a day or two while I get fiber optic. Z | ||
| Roadrash1 |
The EBR kit rotors were being done by an outside machine shop, I think. When I was waiting for mine, it was mentioned that "a batch" had just come back. I would be fine with an exchange. The rotor you send in will need to be a serviceable core. Besides an inspection, l'll bet they get tested. An actual exchange would allow me to send in the '10 rotor I pulled off my bike for the EBR kit install. Then my friend with the '09 could ride to my house, and I could put the machined part on his bike. He sprung for extended warenty coverage, so for the price of a few gaskets, he gets to be a beta tester. | ||
| Buellhusker |
I would love to get a engineering drawing on the oil hole location and specifications as to Dia ECT. I have my own Bridgeport Mill and I could possibly do my own "Oil Hole" | ||
| Shags |
I have a question don't no if it has been answered.Do you have to use the EBR locking tool to remove the rotor? | ||
| Duphuckincati |
Yes, crank locking tool needed. | ||
| Mako |
thanks guys. this made my new year | ||
| Zoolander |
Any update on this rotor exchange service by EBR, is it offered yet? (It sounds a lot cheaper than getting the new stator kit) | ||
| Pwillikers |
I emailed EBR a month ago. In their response they indicated that they'd be offering the rotor machining service in a month. They should be just about ready now. Email them. | ||
| Zoolander |
Sent off an email last night at 11 EST, waiting now. What's anyone's opinion on the effectiveness of this option vs the EBR stator kit? | ||
| Timebandit |
I recently spoke with the guy at EBR who's responsible for this project. If everyone bombards them with phone calls and emails, I doubt that it will make things happen any faster. Then they'll have to spend time servicing calls and emails instead of getting things done. Instead of bombarding them with calls and emails, I'd keep any eye on the web site. They understand the demand for this service, and I'm sure they'll let us know when they're ready. | ||
| Zoolander |
Time, I doubt if they're getting "bombarded". That's the beauty of email, you can answer whenever is convenient. It's my first and last email about it to them, promise.  For street-use, what's your opinion on this possible solution versus a whole new stator/rotor kit? | ||
| Avc8130 |
I think the BEST path forward for 09/10 owners is this: Stock stator Series RR Harness w/ functioning relay Machined rotor for oil spray Keep the bike 5k+ That combination SHOULD be the best we can get for both stator life and output. ac | ||
| Timebandit |
Well, yes and no. A series regulator is really going to help you a lot at low RPM, but not so much at high RPM. As RPM increases the series regulator's behavior becomes more and more like that of a shunt regulator. When you're in the high RPM zone, the series regulator won't provide much benefit. With both a series regulator and a shunt regulator, the amount of heat that is dissipated by the stator is directly proportional to the voltage that has to be dissipated across the stator, and that voltage varies as a linear function of RPM. The only difference is that a shunt regulator places you at maximum load (overload) at all times, while the series regualtor's load is dependent upon how much load you actually place on the bike. For racing purposes a series regulator is a GREAT solution. These bikes operate with no accessories and negligible loads. The savings in heat generation can be huge. For a street bike, maybe yes and maybe no. With bright lights, heated gear, etc., a series regulator may not offer much improvement over a shunt regulator. For a series regulator to really help you, you'd have to avoid the heated gear type of system loads. Use heated gear and you'll be no better off than if you kept a shunt regulator. To make your list of conditions complete, I'd add a line that addresses limiting electrical system loads to reasonable levels. (Message edited by timebandit on February 01, 2012) | ||
| Timebandit |
Forgot to mention -- a series regulator might not need the harness update/relay. (Message edited by timebandit on February 01, 2012) | ||
| Avc8130 |
Time, You always have the answers. Be realistic...even with "accessories"...with the exception of heated gear and ridiculous lighting, none really add up to squat. Lights: I have yet to see anyone care for more than HIDs. They are equal at most in draw to the stock lights. Heated gear: Let's be realistic. Heated gear is NEVER the best for the stator/reg combo...but luckily we can assume most people will not use heated gear nearly as much as they run the bike without. So sure, maybe the series isn't ideal or much of a gain with heated gear, but on ALL of the other days it is far superior. No switching regulator yet. So I stand by my original list and agree that reducing electrical loads whenever possible would be a fair addition. ac | ||
| Timebandit |
Agreed - heated gear is the enemy. Light loads and a non-shunt regulator are the best approach. With the right regulator, you could probably ditch the charging harness/relay. (Message edited by timebandit on February 01, 2012) | ||
| Timebandit |
Zoo, here's what I'm thinking. EBR has just announced their last minute plans to field a team for the 2012 season, and the first race is in Daytona next month. There's not a lot of time for them to get things done between now and then, and loading up their mailbox isn't going to make things any easier for them. To answer mails, somebody has to stop doing something else. The more mails there are, the less they want to answer them. Just a thought. | ||
| Avc8130 |
Time, If you keep editting out 1/2 your posts we are going to have to start calling you Court! Ditching the relay would be nice as there would no longer be a worry whether or not its contacts are functioning. I know you had the parameters for the harness operation, was there anything in there for a dwell or minimum/max time at RPM? My question is this: Does the relay open the stator whenver the bike is between 2k-4400rpm (I think those numbers were what you said, correct if I am mistaken)? OR Is there some logic that if you are just revving right through that range nothing happens? AND/OR Is there some logic that if you operate in the range, say 3500 rpm, for an extended period of time it will give bursts of full stator output to maintain charge? ac | ||
| Timebandit |
You ask a good question about whether the ECM programming uses hysteresis in controlling the relay. I can't say. You need to ask the guys who wrote the software. | ||
| Zoolander |
Time, I sent one email. I can't be responsible for every email they receive. I know of no one that actually enjoys answering email but as part of customer relations, it's an assumed part of most companies' plans. I'm not privy to the inner workings of EBR so I don't know if every second is frantic at this time. If I have a question, I ask respectfully. It's up to them to reply. We're getting way off topic here...do you think a machined rotor mod without replacing the stator is a good enough solution (with a series regulator) or do you think the stator/rotor kit is a better idea? Avc, thanks for your opinion! |
