| Author | Message | ||
     Timebandit |
Has anyone gone to the International MC shows? I know that NYC was last week and Cleveland is coming up this weekend. I'm planning on going to the show in Chicago if it's worthwhile. Also, can you tell me if No-Mar is offering a show special on their tire changers? I'm hoping to pick one up for a good price at the show if they have a show special price on them. Thanks. http://www.nomartirechanger.com/ | ||
| 01fxdx |
i enjoyed the show in novi, mi. got to see some things i would not otherwise would, 1190rs, that ktm track machine, some other cool stuff. was a good opertunity for me to spend some time with an old bud as well. as for the no mar, it's an excellent option for the at home enthusiest. i prefer the real tire machine at work that requires a great deal less effort on my part. a machine like that is likely a couple grand. | ||
| Timebandit |
understood. i don't have the space or the budget for a $2k tire changer, hence my interest in the no-mar. did you notice if they had any special prices at the show? | ||
| Sprintst |
Check ebay, NoMar sells direct and gives more goodies for the same price as their website ask them if they will sell the show unit after the show is done. Some companies will (Message edited by Sprintst on January 25, 2012) | ||
| Nillaice |
i think they were offering free shipping, but i wasn't looking at them too hard, since i know i don't have the space for one | ||
| Timebandit |
While I've got your attention, I want to ask you No-Mar owners about mounting Bridgestones using your machines. I'm thinking about changing from the Pirellis on my 1125R to a BT-016 (and lowering the triple tree on the fork tubes). FIRST QUESTION: STIFF SIDEWALL TIRES Lots of people here seem to be liking the No-Mar machines for mounting the floppy-sidewall michelins and pirellis. But how do the different No-Mars compare when it comes to mounting some thing stiffer, like rolling 'stones? IME Bridgestones have a much stiffer sidewall and can be a real bitch to get on/off with spoons. So I'd like to ask which model of No-Mar changer you've got and how well it works with something like a BT-016. I'm specifically interested if anyone's got helpful knowledge about using any of the following changers with a heavy sidewall tire like a BT-016, or something really hard to do like a Goldwing tire: - Cycle Hill - No-Mar Classic - No-Mar Jr. Pro - No-Mar Pro I'd rather not spend the money on the Pro if I can get the same results with something less costly. I don't own a Goldwing, but I do have a pair of BMW boxers that have heavy Bridgestones on them that need to come off, to be replaced with a set of Michelin's PR3. AVC, if you read this, I'd also be interested in hearing about how your upgraded HF setup can handle Bridgestones. | ||
| Froggy |
No-mar wasn't at the NY show, I don't know if they are going to be elsewhere. I wouldn't bother using the Cycle Hill, there are a lot of minor differences with the full No-mars that make using them a more pleasant experience. Doing a stiff tire is going to suck regardless unless you have a pneumatic machine. | ||
| Timebandit |
SECOND QUESTION: How much clearance do you have with the 1125 rear wheel pulley and disc brake with your specific model of No-Mar changer? Looking at specs on the No-Mar ebay ads, I see that the pulley clearance is only 2.5" on the No-Mar changers. To get 4" of clearance you have to buy the extra "Posi-Clamps" for $150, which are standard on the Cycle-Hill product. Unfortunately these have a bad reputation for letting the wheel slip. Clearances are listed on this spec sheet: http://s1123.photobucket.com/albums/l551/SteveNemi sh/?action=view¤t=page00013.jpg TIA! | ||
| Timebandit |
They say they'll be at the Chicago show: http://www.nomartirechanger.com/events | ||
| Avc8130 |
Time, I don't own a No Mar, but I do have a bunch of their accessories. I used their spool kit to modify a Harbor Freight setup. I did have to space them up a good bit to get enough clearance on Buell rear wheels due to the HUGE pulley. I LOVE their mount/demount bar. Their Yellow Hand Thing is awesome also. I use their tire lube also. In reality it seems I consider buying a No Mar setup just about every year. What winds up happening is I realize that my current setup has worked for me for over 5 years and has paid for itself countless times doing tires for myself and others in the area/on forums. I have done countless NIGHTMARE tires. I have done Bridgestones and Metzeler. If you maintain proper technique just about anything is doable. The bead MUST be in the rim relief and you must have lube in areas it should be and NONE in areas it shouldn't be. A little practice and you will be fine. If you experience wheel slip, just use a ratchet strap to tie a spoke to the changer. If you have any other questions, I'd be glad to help. ac (Message edited by avc8130 on January 25, 2012) (Message edited by avc8130 on January 25, 2012) | ||
| Sprintst |
No problem doing Dunlop Sportmax Q2's on the Cycle Hill did the rear you can slip the wheel, but it's easy to not do that (Message edited by Sprintst on January 25, 2012) | ||
| Roadrash1 |
I bought a no-mar classic about a year ago. The first tires I changed on it were on a friends Vstar cruiser. They were Goodyears. I think Elites? Anyway, they were Gold Wing tires from what my friend indicated. I didn't even try the mount-demount bar on those. I went straight for the rim lock spools and the big spoons that no-mar sells. We got them mounted, but I was sweating like "Meatloaf" by the end. It was the worst case senerio. Stiff cold tires, and my first use of the machine. Since then, I've mounted Dunlops and Shinkos on my Street Triple and 1125R. Sport bike tires almost fall on, compared to the cruisers! It's a great machine. I mounted mine on half a sheet of 3/4 " plywood. That way, I can drag it out of the corner, and use it where ever I want. I'd buy it all over again. | ||
| Avc8130 |
Another tip: keep the tires you plan on installing in the sun prior to install. ac | ||
| Froggy |
Enough. I've changed my 1125R tires on a No-Mar, I know a CR owner that uses a No-Mar too, and I know they work on the XB sprocket too. I can take some measurements/photos on my Cycle Hill if you desire, but I assure you it isn't an issue regardless of No-Mar model. | ||
| Timebandit |
thanks for the help, guys. One thing that's always worried me about the cycle hill is that you have to use the bead breaker on the floor. i just can't get too excited about laying my wheel on the floor, and using a lever to press down on it with a either the pulley or the brake rotor on the ground. i always thought the no-mar setup might offer better protection. how do you guys with the cycle hill feel about bead breaking on the floor? kinda scares me. Froggy, if it's not too much trouble, getting to eyeball one of our rears in place on the changer would really help me to visualize how much clearance there is -- based on the no-mar chart, it doesn't sound like there's enough clearance. but don't go pulling off a wheel just for that. if you're one of those guys who has extra wheels lying around, a picture would be great, but don't go out of your way. | ||
| Reepicheep |
Worth repeating, heat is your friend. If it's not a stinking hot day, I'll put the tire under a welding blanket with a little space heater blowing on it (don't set anything on fire please). | ||
| Jdugger |
+1 on the no-mar. Works great on Buell wheels. | ||
| Avc8130 |
Time, I would NEVER put bead breaking pressure on a rotor or sprocket. Instead, I use 2 2x4s along with the bead breaking base to create a triangle supporting the wheel. This is very strong and won't bend a rotor or sprocket. ac | ||
| Timebandit |
Thx AC. I had thought about that -- building a little platform with a round hole in it. 2x4 frame with a plywood top and some carpet. That would make the Cycle-Hill more safe, but then I'd have another piece of gear to store. Sounds like the Cycle Hill is a bit of a PITA that requires some DIY fabrication, and once you've done that you have something else to store. So the Cycle Hill loses it's advantage of being compact/easy to store vs. the No-Mar. I looked on-line for the HF unit, to use as a base for modification with the No-Mar spools and bar. Couldn't find it on the website any more. Anybody got part numbers for the changer and adapter? Dugger, which No-Mar do you have and how does it handle Bridgestones & Metzlers? Just looked at my BMWs and it turns out I have a set of each. If you guys that have No-Mar changers could tell me a little bit about differentiating between the models, that would help a lot. Without having hands-on experience it's hard to tell what the differences really are between the Classic and the Jr. Pro. I know that $200 buys you a set of $100 grips (3x$33) and some changes to the overhead bar, but beyond getting that set of 3 grips I'm having trouble figuring out how the upgrade to the Jr. Pro really helps you. What I do notice is that on those videos, they're using the bigger machines on the heavy cruiser/Goldwing tires. | ||
| Oldog |
Tb I have a Nomar no issues with the wheels on the basic nomar unit, contis are stiff tires and like froggy says they are a hand full, webe (also a nomar owner) tells me that the yellow thing or extra hand clamps are good to have, and that with practice no tires are too bad. consider the trailer hitch mount if space is a problem for you.. I have the floor mount column on a sheet of ply wood it works good. | ||
| Jdugger |
> Dugger, which No-Mar do you have and how > does it handle Bridgestones & Metzlers? I have the classic. I bought a kit that came with the changer, three of those bead clamps, a big jar of "boy butter" mount lube, and a static balancer. Everything you need. It's a manual changer, so of course, the closer to a race tire you get, the easier it is! Tires like Pirelli slicks almost push on the wheel with no tools at all. A Bridgestone sport-touring tire has a lot of rigidity, and it's going to be a fair bit more work. In general, it's a technique thing. If you are smart about where you stand, how you apply force, and how you have the tire oriented, the job is pretty easy. If you are fighting and struggling, you are either doing it wrong or didn't use enough lube. I change a LOT of tires. All but the most miserable only take me a minute or two now. Every once in a while I tell a buddy I'll help him and he hands me some old crusty street tire that's been on the wheel for 3 years. Those, I'm likely to just hand back. But, everything else is pretty reasonable. | ||
| Timebandit |
Do you have any clearance problems with the 1125 rear wheel, with pulley and brakes attached, on the No-Mar classic? Based on No-Mar's info sheet that I linked up above, they say it's only got 2.5" of clearance to the tripod. That makes me wonder if there's adequate clearance for 1125 rear wheels without disassembling them. | ||
| Jdugger |
No clearance issues at all. I break the bead on the pulley side, flip the wheel and chock it, then break the bead on the rotor side and walk it around. Pop the tire off... Works like a champ. | ||
| Timebandit |
Good to know! Thanks. | ||
| Dnlink |
I have the Cycle hill version, I like it. You can go to the No-Mar website and they have videos of difficult tire mounts such as the Goldwing. No issues with the Buell pulleys. | ||
| Timebandit |
Yes, I've watched every one of the No-Mar videos. They sure do make it look easy, don't they? I'm not convinced that those guys (and the gal) aren't working with brand new, soft, and warmed tires. I think it's realistic to believe that they make the job look as easy as they possibly can. I'm more interested in how hard it is to get those crusty old Bridgestones off of the BMW that's been parked in a corner ever since I got the 1125. I doubt it will be as easy as they make it look in the videos. | ||
| Froggy |
Yep.
They aren't cheating. I know they have been to shows in the past mounting fresh bought tires for customers, they just have that much experience that it looks effortless.
Sure won't be as easy as the 1125 tires! | ||
| Oldog |
TB the no mar is a finnesse thing even with stiff tires, you can force things to a degree but rims slip, tips break, things spring when its right it is as easy as it looks. part of it is where the beads are, and how and where the bar is placed.. conti road attacks are an order of magnitude stiffer than Pirelli's sport tires its a job but thats with out the 3rd hand or yellow thing.. | ||
| Avc8130 |
Using a manual tire changer is 99% technique. Like I said, lube in the right places, not lube in the wrong places, proper use of the bar, proper use of a yellow thing, the beads within the rim relief, pressure in the right areas, etc etc etc. With practice it is EASY. ac |
