| Author | Message | ||
     Sportster_mann |
To drill holes in the fairing frame of a 1125R ? I'm considering bolting a bar between the 2 upper arms of the skeleton - it should act as a stay and cut down on mirror vibration as the 2 ends of the "fork" will be tied together ... Although I do have other ideas on how to do this using the existing mirror mounts (no drilling required), if I can find the parts to do the job ... | ||
| Timebandit |
I'm thinking that if you wanted to put a brace between the upper arms of the skeleton, those holes that have the 10mm nuts for the mirrors would be great anchor points, no drilling required. if you just bolted a tab to the L/R mirror studs, you could span a turnbuckle + wire between the left and right sides, and adjust the tension to test your theory on damping mirror vibration. | ||
| Littlebutquick |
i cut alot out of mine to save weight and not had any problems | ||
| Dennis_c |
Silicone around the mirrors helps a lot set the mirrors first no adjusting after that without cutting it loose. | ||
| Zac4mac |
The fairing stays are safe to drill, just don't drill into the frame/tank. I tried a couple of braces(compression and tension) 4 years ago and it made no difference. The OEM mirrors are crap. I replaced mine with Firebolt mirrors and use the marker lights as turn signals on my 08R. signals off  left turn on  Z | ||
| Timebandit |
Z, your solution for the bars worked pretty well -- Maybe you need to fill the mirrors with bird shot too.  | ||
| Zac4mac |
Bob I tried putting foam inside the mirror and that didn't work thru three different foams. Neil(Ccryder) had favorable results with RTV around the glass to the housing. Primarily I didn't like the lack of adjustability although visibility rearward was dismal. The Firebolt mirrors go from sitting almost upright to full tuck almost effortlessly. They are also the most stable M/C mirrors I've ever used. Win-win for me. Z | ||
| Sprintst |
Safe to do, but I can't see it helping with the mirrors much |
