| Author | Message | ||
     Yugi |
Hi, I made a cable to connect a stator output to an existing connector of Compufire 55402 regulator. Here are the details. Used 12 AWG wire. Compufire supplies a connector, where you should install your existing stator wires. So the missing things were the male terminals, which I bought from here: http://www.ebay.com/itm/230569691354?ssPageName=ST RK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649 You can buy Deutsch connector from here: http://www.deutschconnector.com/products/deutsch_d tp_4-way_connectors.html You will need DTP04-4P connector with stamped pins (12-14 AWG). The pins are available here: http://www.deutschconnector.com/products/deutsch_d tp_pins_and_sockets.html Part: 1060-12-0166-PS Then, you will need a crimp tool. I used this one from ebay: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item =350519914046 Search for Crimping Crimp Tool Inter-Lock Non-Insulated Terminals, seller goods_keeper You can also use another tool, but it's more expensive. http://www.ebay.com/itm/230621013875?ssPageName=ST RK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649 | ||
| Ros |
Can you post some photos of the cable and how you build it. A friend is going to install the Compufire soon in his CR. Thanks | ||
| Yugi |
Sure, I'll post pictures later | ||
| Timebandit |
what are you using for the battery side connector? | ||
| Yugi |
I will be connecting directly to the battery. Compufire is supplying the 40A fuse on that connection. | ||
| Yugi |
Here is a cable picture  | ||
| Dannybuell |
Yugi ~ Excellent! You have to sell a few, pay for your R&D and tools! | ||
| Ros |
Yugi ~ Excellent! You have to sell a few, pay for your R&D and tools! That's right!!! If you gonna sell this cables, I'll tell to my friend about it. | ||
| Yugi |
Who is interested? I can buy more parts and make more cables. | ||
| Rkc00 |
I would take one depending on the price | ||
| Froggy |
I will take 2 of them. | ||
| Ros |
Depends on price and shipment cost maybe I'll take 2 of them | ||
| Yugi |
The price will be around $30 + shipping. If there will be a group buy of 3+ cables, then the price will be around $25 + shipping. | ||
| Yugi |
The black connector will not be supplied, as it comes with Compufire regulator, But I will crimp the pins and put the weather seals on. You will just need to insert the pins into the connector. | ||
| Timebandit |
Congrats, Yugi. I think you've found a niche market, and I hope you can sell a bunch of cables to help recoup your time and your investment in parts and tools. I couldn't see too much detail in the side-view photo, so I have to ask -- did you use the watertight sealing plugs on the connectors? It's hard to tell from the pic. I'm still wondering what your plans are for the battery side of the vreg. When I spoke to the manufacturer about buying them in bulk, I was told that the part was a proprietary design only available under license. Harley wants to keep people out of the business of making parts for their bikes. On a related note, When I was doing electrical system performance tests on the charging system, I thought it was far too inconvenient to keep connecting & disconnecting the stator/vreg for attaching oscilloscope leads and multimeter leads to the charging system, so I spec'd a pass-through harness to interpose between the stator and vreg. My cable plugs in between the stator and vreg using the OEM Deutsch connectors. It has a long braided "snoop" cable that goes to an adapter plug. Then I use a pair of adapter cables with banana plugs or insulated alligator clips at their terminus to connect to various types of test equipment. Pics:   The moral of the story is that it's pretty easy to make custom cables if you need them. | ||
| Yugi |
Yes, I installed watertight sealing plugs.
Yes, I was looking for that connector too, but I couldn't find it. I have one of them, cut from the old broken VR, which dealer replaced. So, I will connect directly to the battery, to keep Compufire regulator stock. | ||
| Timebandit |
I have the contact info for the factory rep at the company that makes the battery connector, if you need it. You can probably special order the part at your local HD dealer. | ||
| Avc8130 |
Don't forget to register with Blake to become a vendor before peddling your wares on the forum, lest you get in trouble. Looks like a high quality cable for those looking to maintain the ability to return to stock. Since warranty is up I plan on just switching over to the more standard weatherpacks. | ||
| Timebandit |
> "Since warranty is up I plan on just switching over to the more standard weatherpacks." since you don't care about factory compatible hook-ups any more, i guess you're not under an extended warranty either. once warranty is up, you're pretty much freed from the need to keep things looking stock. the Deutsch connectors are really high quality stuff, and pretty easy to source, so I don't see any great pressure to change them. the battery connector, though, is a proprietary HD design and a hassle to obtain. it's not even a great connector. it's the first thing I'd cut off if I were doing an out of warranty conversion. > Don't forget to register I'm not selling anything, so I'm sure you weren't directing that to me. I understand the need to regulate vendor activity, so i have a question about that. if somebody on the board (example: Froggy) was stuck in trying to do some electrical work and they asked someone to build a one-off adapter cable for them, would the helper need to register on the site as a vendor? if someone asked Froggy for $5 or $10 over parts cost to cover the real cost of building him an adapter, would that make them a vendor? if the threshold to qualify as being a vendor is that low, it kinda takes away the incentive to help a brother in need. | ||
| Avc8130 |
Time, Yeah, no extended here for me either. Honestly, the freedom from the nightmares at HD is kind of nice in its own right. I don't disagree about the Deutsch. They are a top-tier connector. I just have a weather pack kit as it is more compatible with my truck so I turn to that whenever I need something. It is also easier to work with the metripack connectors without the special crimp tools if needed. For your application, can you just ignore that portion of the harness and feed straigh to the battery? That would let you return to stock at any point and provide you with the presumed better solution of thicker wire straight to the battery from the RR. The vendor rules are very interesting around these parts. Pretty much Blake decides when you have crossed the magical threshold. ac | ||
| Timebandit |
> "For your application, can you just ignore that portion of the harness and feed straigh to the battery? That would let you return to stock at any point and provide you with the presumed better solution of thicker wire straight to the battery from the RR." that cable setup i showed in the photos has Deutsch connectors on both ends. it's an "interposition" cable that goes between the stator and vreg, and has monitoring leads hanging off of it. its purpose is to facilitate hooking the 3-phase AC side of the charging system up to an oscilloscope to monitor activity on the stator side of the charging system. since it only sits on the stator side of the vreg as a passive monitoring device, it doesn't have any application on the battery side. just wanted to clarify that if anyone is confused. to answer your question, no direct connection to battery. good engineering practices require fusing the 12V supply side of the regulator. | ||
| Avc8130 |
Time, Sure, you fuse it. With a standalone inline fuse. This is commonly done on just about every other bike brand whenever guys get the inkling to swap out an old style shunt regulator for the all-famed FH012AA MOSFET shunt or a Compufire. I didn't mean to set it up without a fuse. ac | ||
| Timebandit |
just realized that people have talked about direct connection between the Vreg and the battery. not a good idea. it would really help to review the bikes schematics to be sure that you don't go bypassing the protection circuits that are already there. don't let a regulator failure to turn an un-fused battery into an acid grenade under your ass. | ||
| Avc8130 |
Time, Not to push buttons...but it really appears that entire world does just that in the aftermarket. This is a pretty much unanimously accepted kit amongst just about every other forum (Triumph/Suzuki/Honda/etc): http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Elec__Products/C onnectors/R_R_Connectors/r_r_connectors.html ac | ||
| Shags |
Yugi, I am in for one nice job. | ||
| Timebandit |
You're not pushing buttons.  But this is a pretty important topic, so we should probably continue the hijack. You MUST properly fuse every load. Period. I don't think anybody's going to disagree with that. If you look at the stuff on the SillyBeaver site, it looks like he is advocating direct connection from vreg to battery with a fused connector. While that SEEMS to be safe, depending on the circuit layout in your bike, that could be OK, or it could be really, really, really BAD. It does look like his diagrams work under the assumption that everything is staying properly fused. If you look at the Shitdungeon regulator schematic, it shows an in-line fuse between the Vreg and the battery. Although doing that seems safe (at least superficially), there is no guarantee that what you're actually doing is safe unless you review the bike's schematic to assure that you aren't bypassing any other fuse points. Look at our bike's schematic. Here is a photo snippet from the electrical service manual to tell the reader which pages he should be looking at.  The Vreg supply comes from the top of the other page, and comes to the bussbar in the fusebox as a red wire. The schematic shows that every circuit is supposed to be fused at the red wire on the supply side. That means a fuse between the regulator output and the input for EVERY CIRCUIT, not just one 30A fuse to the battery. On the 1125 the Vreg does NOT hook up to the battery. It connects to a bus bar, and through it, to several fuses. Each fuse supplies a limited amount of current (10A, 15A or 30A) that's right for that circuit. They are wired in parallel, so the collective system current rating can exceed 30A. If the vreg connector did connect directly to the battery that would force all current through the new 30A mains (battery) fuse before reaching the bussbar in the fuse box. Total system load would be limited by the new mains fuse. Bypassing fuses, adding parallel fuses with higher capacity, reversing circuit paths or restricting current with an underrated mains fuse is a good way to •••• up your bike. I wouldn't follow directions from any aftermarket expert until I studied the schematic for my bike to verify that he knows WTF he's doing. Don't bet your bike that these guys have done the homework for you and come up with the right answer. Moral of the story, pretty-looking cables may not be right. Be really careful who you trust to tell you how to wire up your bike. Chances are some dufus isn't going to get it right. (Message edited by timebandit on January 10, 2012) | ||
| Yugi |
There is another diagram in electric manual:  | ||
| Timebandit |
just to clarify, i don't see anything wrong with that adapter that Yugi made. | ||
| Avc8130 |
Yugi/Time, That is interesting...looks like the battery enters the Buss Bar in the same spot as the RR. So...what difference does it make if there is 1 path: VR-Battery-Buss Bar or 2 paths: VR-Battery-Buss bar & VR-Buss bar? ac | ||
| Timebandit |
> There is another diagram in electric manual: yeah, the problem with that other diagram is that it simplifies the illustration to the point that it creates the false illusion of safety that you're good to go if you just fuse the supply side to the battery. it doesn't show any of the other circuit paths that could be being supplied via duplicate paths. now you've got two 30A battery fuses. having a bike that doesn't match the schematic doesn't make troubleshooting any easier. i think that the reason that so many people screw this up is because they look at the simple diagram instead of the complete schematic. i'm going to admit that i haven't traced every circuit on the bike to contemplate the ramifications of adding new circuit points of attachment. that's way too time consuming. much easier on me to not modify the wiring setup unnecessarily, and to continue to use the official attachment points when wiring up a new regulator. bottom line, i'd recommend maintaining the same electrical attachment points that the guys at Buell designed for the bike. i wouldn't follow anyone else's advise to create new sites for wire attachment unless you're damned sure what you're doing. good luck. (Message edited by timebandit on January 10, 2012) |
