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Author Message   Avalaugh Posted on Monday, January 09, 2012 - 03:27 pm:        I have a Brembo radial clutch MC from a Ducati 1098 i want to fit, the Brembo item only has 2 wires coming from the micro switch, the Buell item has 3 wires ? What's the 3rd wire for ? will i have an issue starting the bike up unless it's in neutral rather than just pulling the lever in ? Not that i start the bike in gear often, if i stall at a set of lights it would be a pain to have to find neutral again. Any idea's please ?   Sprintst Posted on Monday, January 09, 2012 - 03:37 pm:        per the manual: TN/LGN - positive BK - ground TN/Y - neutral switch (Message edited by sprintst on January 09, 2012)   Jdugger Posted on Monday, January 09, 2012 - 03:45 pm:        Bike runs just fine if you don't connect the clutch cable...   Avalaugh Posted on Monday, January 09, 2012 - 04:00 pm:        Jdugger, it runs fine but should i stall the bike, i know for sure it wont start unless its in neutral as my switch failed once. For you as a racer no probs, but for road use i want that function to work.   Jdugger Posted on Monday, January 09, 2012 - 04:33 pm:        Av, You are correct. Honestly, I think being in N to start is good policy, and I would assume a stall would happen in 1st, so it's right there. Some amount of the starter's effort goes to lunging the bike forward, even when the clutch is pulled in. The bike actually runs a little BETTER when the clutch switch is pulled, IMHO, in particular with the EBR ECM. When the clutch is pulled in, the ECM returns to idle programming (as if in N) so you lose some of the benefits of the reduction in engine braking for hard entry corners, or in panic braking, etc. I'm just saying if you were to not get this "fixed", it's not the end of the world, and might actually be a titch of a perk.   Avalaugh Posted on Monday, January 09, 2012 - 05:09 pm:        I may have to give it a go Jdugger, but I'm going to have a chat with a electrician friend and see if there's a way round this ?   Stirz007 Posted on Monday, January 09, 2012 - 05:16 pm:        "The bike actually runs a little BETTER when the clutch switch is pulled, IMHO, in particular with the EBR ECM." Jim - are you serious? (I know you are). My Brembo didn't have the clutch switch, so I just disconnected the harness connection. I'm a bit slow, so I didn't pick up on change in engine braking - learn something new every day....   Jdugger Posted on Monday, January 09, 2012 - 05:52 pm:        > Jim - are you serious? Yup, noticed it on my bikes. BTW, remember YEARS ago when these things first came out how people would get "surprised" by the bump in revs as the clutch was eased out? If you pull the clutch switch, that bump happens as soon as you click into gear... (Message edited by jdugger on January 09, 2012)   Jdugger Posted on Monday, January 09, 2012 - 05:54 pm:        > I'm going to have a chat with a electrician friend and see Real easy: Get a continuity tester and find two leads that SHORT (beep) when the clutch is pulled in but don't when it's released. Wire those.   Sprintst Posted on Monday, January 09, 2012 - 05:58 pm:        um, I posted from the electrical manual above......   Stirz007 Posted on Monday, January 09, 2012 - 05:59 pm:        "Yup, noticed it on my bikes." After further pondering - YOU ARE CORRECT, SIR! Coming into the pit, if I pull in the clutch while in gear the beast revs kinda high. Shift into neutral (clutch out) and coast in, revs much lower. I think you're on to something......   Jdugger Posted on Monday, January 09, 2012 - 06:03 pm:        > I think you're on to something...... So, how I noticed was that my race bike would maintain the "high idle" and "minimal engine braking" much better than a street bike. One day, I was working on the street bike, forgot to reconnect the wire, and wow, it ran like my race bike! Woot! After reconnecting, I noticed that the very brief clutch lever pulls would momentarily trigger the idle programming, slightly increasing engine braking. I've never had one connected since!   Froggy Posted on Monday, January 09, 2012 - 06:03 pm:        Yes, the bike has a different controls for the idle based on if you are in gear and have the clutch in or out. I disconnected my switch once, I didn't like the change so I put it back.   Avalaugh Posted on Tuesday, January 10, 2012 - 12:13 am:        Does it happen with stock and EBR ECM ?   Jdugger Posted on Tuesday, January 10, 2012 - 08:44 am:        > Does it happen with stock and EBR ECM ? Yes, it should, though it's much more pronounced on the EBR ECM since the off throttle fueling is more generous...   Avalaugh Posted on Tuesday, January 10, 2012 - 12:16 pm:        I used ti really notice the rev rise on the stock ECM, but since fitting the EBR ECM thought it had been mapped out ?   Avalaugh Posted on Tuesday, January 10, 2012 - 12:23 pm:        Right, ignore this 3 wire business, just taken a closer look, the micro switch has 3 pins, but the wiring harness only uses 2 of them, there are only 2 wires going to the switch, Green/Yellow and BLack. Problem solved. But now I gotta try Jdugger's theory   Colintornado Posted on Tuesday, January 10, 2012 - 02:13 pm:        On my bike also the rev rise is less pronounced with the ebr, but still does it a bit. I have tried the clutch switch dissconnected and slightly prefered it.Just out of interest I had noticed that if you run the engine with clutch pulled in the engine sounds softer,It seems to me that it is likely it also retards the ignition.I tried running with the switch in the clutch in position and it runs like a bag of poo !!!! so that seems to go with my guess of ignition change also.   Jdugger Posted on Tuesday, January 10, 2012 - 03:05 pm:        > if you run the engine with clutch pulled in the engine sounds softer You might be hearing some clutch clatter. With my Suter clutch, in idle with the clutch lever released I get clatter on par with a dry-clutch Ducati. Even on a stock bike, there's a difference in the sound between clutch in or out. Though it's more subtle, I notice the same even on my Honda 600.   Avalaugh Posted on Tuesday, January 10, 2012 - 03:46 pm:        He doesn't mean riding with clutch in or out, he means fooling ECM into thinking clutch in or not, bridging the wires I think !   Colintornado Posted on Tuesday, January 10, 2012 - 05:20 pm:        Thats right, when I linked the wires and rode up the road it runs real bad. The softer sound as you blip the throttle is noticeable if stationary with the clutch switch connected normal and clutch pulled in or just wires linked. I have only tried this with the ebr ecu on. I know this is not relevant to the original post but I wondered if anyone else had noticed similar.   Jdugger Posted on Tuesday, January 10, 2012 - 05:25 pm:        Well, you are essentially running with an idle map, so yea, it could be pretty bad. Might also rev limit quite low, depending on how the ecm was programmed. For what it's worth, the race wiring harness DOES NOT have a clutch switch...   Stirz007 Posted on Tuesday, January 10, 2012 - 05:33 pm:        "For what it's worth, the race wiring harness DOES NOT have a clutch switch..." (mine does, though it is now not attached to anything)- maybe you got an early version.

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