| Author | Message | ||
     Duphuckincati |
...if we fit the new kit from ebr and the FH0012A r/r? All these thousands of post would seem to add up to this. If not, what's the issue in layman's terms? I'm getting dizzy. Thanks. | ||
| Roadrash1 |
I think just fitting the EBR kit will be the end of it. The R/R change will probably not be needed for reliable service. I guess it depends on what your idea of reliable is. I would be happy to have the record compiled by '08 owners. My own opinion is simply this; The '08 system seems reliable. The '09-'10 system not so much... | ||
| Cataract2 |
Well, me and Zac seem to follow a similar path in miles and things happening with our 08's. Both he and I are still on our original stators with 25,000 miles+. | ||
| Froggy |
My 08 is a little under 20,000 miles, the entire electrical system is still factory original. | ||
| Duphuckincati |
Mine got the check and battery light and the volts started dropping at just over 8000 miles about a week ago, just as the new kit was announced. So I'm presuming it's the stator with the check/battery lights and volts dropping, but with all the talk of the r/r possibly adding to the demise of the stators I figured I'd change that too. I'm very far from being an EE but the idea of more cooling oil and less output and more stable regulation should be the deal. Agreed? Fixed? | ||
| Timebandit |
That's a really good question. In theory the answer is definitely "yes" -- either oil cooling on it's own, or series/switching regulation on it's own should solve the stator heat problem. But we have to wait for real world results to know for sure. It's always possible that the oil cooling might not work as well as we'd like it to work. It's always possible that series regulation won't prevent enough heat generation to make it work as well as we'd like to work, because some riders will still try to maximally load the electrical systems. We won't know all the answers until enough real world tests are performed to give us the final word. Right now, we're still in that "pay your money and take your chances" sort of situation. Time will tell. Oh, BTW, I recently posted to another thread to try to clarify the limitations regarding the benefits of the series regulation paradigm. By itself, it's not the end-all answer for high load situations. If you load your bike's electrical system with heated gear to the point that you're maxxing out the stator's power delivery capabilities, then a series regulator won't be any better than a shunt regulator and you'll still cook your stator. The key to success is placing reasonable electrical demands on the bike, and not treating it like it's a Goldwing or a BMW with a 700W alternator. A better paradigm is switching regulation. In theory (there's that word again) a switching regulator will allow you to exceed the specifications of the charging system by a pretty wide margin and still not burn up the stator. It's the Holy Grail for those guys who want to run heated gear. From a practical standoint, I'd use all the technology I could get my hands on. Today, this would mean buying a series regualtor and being realistic about the loads you place on it, or the EBR stator kit with the cooling feature, or both. If/when a switching regulator hits the market, I can guarantee that I'll be the first kid on my block to have one. I wouldn't bother with ANY shunt regulator. (Message edited by TimeBandit on November 26, 2011) | ||
| Black |
Timebandit, So, once again, help a brother out....avoid buying a shunt regulator in favor of a regulator that doesn't yet exist for our applications....Do I have it correctly? | ||
| Nightsky |
Shunt regulator abuse stators. Why would anyone replace that with the same? (Message edited by Nightsky on November 26, 2011) | ||
| Ratbuell |
As I stated in another thread, I believe the stator gets hot (or not) regardless of power consumption. It's magnets. Orbiting a coil. It's stupid. All it does is generate - electricity AND heat - based on RPM. PACKAGING affects stator heat. Period. Packaging in terms of total output capacity (size of magnets, number of coils, etc), and in terms of cooling. If anything, more load will HELP the stator survive because there is less "excess" voltage being shunted and possibly fed back into the coils. | ||
| Black |
Shunt regulator abuse stators. Why would anyone replace that with the same? So what brand do you recommend as a replacement? | ||
| Dannybuell |
Black - http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/290 431/659737.html?1322407122 | ||
| Black |
Thanks Danny, If I look back at these threads.....let's see...shunt type voltage regulators are pretty universally used. They get hot. You can replace them with a series regulator that will also get hot. A requirement for replacement is predicated upon a non-demonstrated relationship between stator failures and shunt regulators....which is, again, only conjecture thus far. These discussions do allow one to sort of damn Buell with faint praise. You can say that the bikes are really good, but have lots of problems....stuff like that and keep pounding on problems that could potentially exist. I am reminded of the Ancient Aliens series on the History Channel. Those big blocks "could" have been put in place by aliens. There "could" be a connection. There could be a causal relationship between stator failures and shunt regulators. All we need is some of that science....and yes, engineering stuff. Then we will know for sure. Until then, we will have to be satisfied that manufacturers have been using shunt type regulators for years because of some nefarious reason not based upon simplicity and reliability. | ||
| Freight_dog |
I will believe we are good when I get through a riding season on one stator. Just replaced the second one under warranty. I might need to buy "the fix" before it disappears off Erik's web sight like all good things seem to do, but I still have three more years of replacing these things on Harley's dime. Bastards. |
