| Author | Message | ||
     Ros |
Hello, I know there's a lot of threats talking about the issues about the alternator-stator-VR... but I'm a bit concerned about this... let me explain... I have a 2010CR (manufactured June 2009), now it has almost 27k km, and besides the clutch problem (solved quick) the only problems are with this damn pieces ALT/STA/VR... 1 Alternator, 2 Stators, 3 VR!!!! WTF!!!! Next December my warranty ends.. and then what? Two different dealers fixed this problems, but they appear again each 4000-6000km!!! Last time was Thursday 28th that my dealer returned the bike repaired, new Stator and VR... All works fine 13.8v - 14.5v... but suddenly last Sunday after 400km on Saturday the voltage drops again... when the bike starts 14.4v, but it drops again to 12.3v, seems that stays there, but it's not a good wealth sign. CR must stay on 13.8v - 14.5v voltage fork when in idle and work. I'll replaced the battery, and I know there's a Harness upgrade installed on it, I think it's OEM in 2010. What the hell is going on in my CR!!! Ros... the desperate one  | ||
| Jules |
I'm confused... What issues have you had with an alternator (other than not being able to find one on the bike to start with). Are you saying you've had 2 stators and 3 VRs fitted? Who did the fault diagnosis? Did you check the stator yourself at any stage? Did the dealer swap the stator/VR simultaneously (as a "just in case" measure?) or have there been numerous seperate failures? You could always spring for an extended warranty... If you're aware of the miriad of threads on this topic you'll already know what the suggestions are - 2008 stator/rotor (see if the dealer will do it under warranty); custom rewind, MOSFET VR, Series VR, extend the warranty or sell it... lots of "choices" (none of them ideal, unless the dealer will do the 2008 retrofit). The voltages dropping COULD be an indication that the harness is doing it's job.. But ti could also be an early indication of stator failure again. It's a 10 min job to check it... why don't you just do that before replacing the battery? | ||
| Sprintst |
Lemon Law? | ||
| Sportster_mann |
My 2010 CR had to have the extra harness fitted, my bike did not come with it as standard - it may be that the dealer has never installed the harness or updated the ECM to manage the stator. | ||
| Ros |
Sorry Jules I have some misunderstandings due to language translation... The alternator is located in the left side of the engine, behind alternator cover. (See Electric diagnostics manual 3-3 page) So there's an alternator on my bike. Mine fried with the stator, this is my dealer report. I'm saying that in almost this two years of service in my bike was changed 1 alternator, 2 stators and 3 VRs. Obviously not at the same time. The diagnosis every time was made by the dealer 'cause the bike is in warranty. Never check the stator myself, because here in Spain the dealers are very aggressive applying the warranty policies. "if you touch it, maybe you broke it, so warranty can not be applied" (Spain way with warranties, yes it sucks!) When the dealer change Stator/vr at the same time the say to me the stator failure broke/fired the VR. The failures are the same every time, drop voltage, no charge, so bike stalls due to lack of voltage. I know about the 2008 solution, but here at this moment I thinks is it impossible... because the dealer cannot do it, I thinks because HD not permit this procedure. | ||
| Stimbrell |
you have a 2009 or later Buell 1125, they have a faulty charging system, HD and Buell know this and do not care, they will replace the faulty parts with identical faulty parts each time they fail until the bike is out of warranty at which point it becomes your problem, you are doing nothing wrong, unlike Buell and HD who are behaving in the most despicable way possible. | ||
| Rogue_biker |
Buell no longer exists. It is now H-D. And yes, HD does NOT care about Buell owners. Never have. | ||
| Jules |
Hi Ros Your English is 100% better than my Spanish! I agree that the EM does indeed say there is an alternator on the bike, but by that the manual means the combination of the stator and rotor unit so in theory if the stator fails then the "alternator" has failed (as per the manual's definition). So if the dealer said that the "alternator" failed then what they meant was the "stator" failed.. To you it amounts to the same thing but that means you have in fact had 3 stator failures - which must be awful for you. Checking the Stator is simply a matter of removing the riders seat and unplugging a wiring connection. The dealer would never know you had done that. The procedure has been posted on here before and there's a good video showing how to bypass the harness on youtube too. Have you taken the rider's seat off to check if the harness is there or have you just accepted the dealer's word for it? Getting the 08 components fitted is a bit of a crap shoot, some dealers in the US have done it and I believe one here in the UK has too. My 09 is getting a custom rewound stator (paid for by HD) but I guess it's tougher in Spain Good Luck! | ||
| Ros |
Hi Jules, can you post the link on youtube, can find it, only find for sporter or other bikes, but not for 1125. How can I know if the harness have been upgrade? part number maybe? which number must be if it has been upgraded? By the way... about the alternate solutions I'm a bit confused... Which is the best substitute of the VR? MOSFET VR Shindengen FH012AA or the Compufire? thanks (Message edited by Ros on August 02, 2011) | ||
| Dannybuell |
despicable is a good word in this case 100% accurate. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nBYEYGJfyBw&lc=7K_i v4njC--S3_A5mbQwDf83ep5MuHBdSqFNn2lIdzI&feature=in box :-) | ||
| Ros |
This video is telling that the solution of stator problem is removing the "solution" of the new harness?? and bypassing it? wow  By the way... about the alternate solutions I'm a bit confused... Which is the best substitute of the VR? MOSFET VR Shindengen FH012AA or the Compufire? thanks | ||
| Jules |
Harness Video I only mentioned the video becaus it's a good visual aid to check that you have the harness installed. When you lift the seat, if you can compare your wiring to the video you should be able to see if there is the additional subharness and relay fitted. Whilst you have the seat up, if you disconnect the grey plug with the 3 yellow wires on that's nearerst the airbox cover you can test the output of the stator there. Please don't reconnect the plug with the motor still running. Shut it off first. Removing the subharness isn't so much a fix for the stator problem as acknowledgement that the harness doesn't really work (especially for you it seems) but that's a "personal choice" sort of thing. Opinion is divided over the best VR... IN MY OPINION the MOSFET (FH012AA) is an improvement over the OEM shunt and in theory the Compufire is better than that because it's a switching VR. But that is just my opinion. | ||
| Ros |
OK Jules, this Friday I will have some time to check it. About the alternate VR, I found the website to buy the FH12AA, but I can't find in the Compufire web site the "Compufire 55402", only saw VR Harley models and no one marked as Buell "compatible". Which one is the correct one? I found this... http://www.amazon.com/COMPU-FIRE-REGULATOR-VLTG-CM PFRE-55402/dp/B0035U7LRM Is this one? The FH12AA has a complete kit, exist the same for the Compufire? Thanks | ||
| Dannybuell |
Ease of installation on the VR should not be the priority. The stock is a first generation shunt design, the FH**** is a MOSFET 2nd generation shunt design, the Compufire is a series design. The BWB member posplayr is an EE and has published here and in other forums a fine paper(pdf) on the superiority of series design in consideration of the stator. If you haven't seen this... http://www.posplayr.100megsfree3.com/FH012AA_Charg ing/RR_Tutorial.pdf search on posplayr | ||
| Rt_performance |
I currently have the mosfet f00 I am thinking of selling it when i get home and trying this series http://roadstercycle.com/ 2 year warrenty unlike compufire | ||
| Ros |
Danny as I read on the pdf... the compufire is superior on performance than FH012AA... So it's the right choice no? But I cannot find on the compufire website... | ||
| Sparky |
That Roadstercycle CE 605 SB Series type regulator certainly looks beefy enough to dissipate 50 amps worth of heat.  That may the the ticket if an adequate mounting space can be found to provide optimum cooling airflow. | ||
| Dannybuell |
Ros - Yes! This too is a series and has a better warranty. http://roadstercycle.com/Roadstercycle%20New%20Ser ies%20Regulators.htm http://www.compufire.com/ | ||
| Ros |
Yes I know the compufire website, but I mean I cannot find the correct VR for the 1125 in the compufire website. | ||
| Jules |
Amazon Debrix But you're right, I couldn't find it on their site either | ||
| Dannybuell |
Compufire will not warranty any installation not in their catalog. There are NO 1125 Buells in their catalog. People are just using their RR anyway. | ||
| Ros |
Ok but which one to choose? In Debrix is this one: CF55402-MCA Voltage Regulator For Compu-Fire 3Phase System This are the VR for Harley in their web site: Voltage Regulators 55120 1989-'99 B/T TWIN - Black 32 Amp, OEM #74519-88A $109.95 55121 1981-'88 B/T TWIN - Black 22 Amp, OEM #74516-86 $118.95 55125 1991-'99 SPORTSTER - Black 22 Amp Sportster $114.95 55130 1989-'99 B/T - 32 Amp Chrome Billet Case, OEM #74519-88A $154.95 55150 1998-'02 B/T - 38 Amp Black (SINGLE PHASE ONLY) $136.95 (Message edited by Ros on August 03, 2011) | ||
| Jules |
None of those listed for Harleys that you have mentioned are likely to be any good, other than the 55402. The 55402 is a 40A unit, that's about the capacity I'd aim for in a VR. It has to be a 3-Phase VR as you have a 3-Phase Stator, within reason the higher the Amperage the unit can handle the better. It's not a "plug & play" fit, you'll need to be prepared to reterminate the connections to suit the Buell and I suspect you might void the warranty if you cut the HD termination off the VR... And of course you'll also void the Buell warranty by fitting it.. | ||
| Ros |
Yes Jules that's way I'm asking which one is the correct one. So the only way to get one is through Amazon or Debrix. I know isn't plug 'n play, and I know I'll void the Buell warranty, that's the reason I'm learning now all this stuff, because at December my warranty ends. | ||
| Fastphil |
I had a long conversation back in early June with the EE at cycle electrics about our stator and RR problems.I tryed to get them to manufacture a reduced output or improved stator and rotor but was told that they did not have the time to work on new products at this time.We did conclude that the CE-605-SB RR made by them for Roadstercycle is a good match for our bikes. This is a 50 amp series (switching)RR and I have been running one for 3800km with good results.Iam awaiting a stator cover from Ebay to install a cooling jet in off the oil cooler return line.I will post the results soon including before and after stator temps.My reduced output RMstator shows no signs of heat damage, good output but I ride mountain back roads and this has been a very cool summer here. | ||
| Reepicheep |
Cool! Sounds like progress! Just for clarity, shunt versus series is probably the most important factor, and you want series to save the stator. A true switching regulator would probably be similar to a series regulator. It would have the advantage of being able to draw more power out of the stator at low RPM then a series or shunt regulator could, so lots of heated gear at low RPMs and a switcher might keep up where the others are starving the battery. That being said, under those same conditions, the switcher could create more heat in the stator at a low RPM (low oil circulation?) then either a series or shunt regulator. So the "safest" solution in terms of keep the stator from overheating is a series regulator. (Message edited by reepicheep on August 04, 2011) | ||
| Dannybuell |
Fastphil - excellent news! I look forward to your oil jet update! | ||
| Jules |
Yep that's certainly my opinion too  | ||
| Ros |
WTF is the only words that came to my mind today.... Last 28th of July my bike has new VR and new Stator as I explained before... Now this morning again new Voltage drops appears, 12.3v is the lowest reading, amazing 10 days to fail again. But this is one of the rare symptoms... The other one is when I start the engine, it goes up at rpm as normal procedure due to cold status, but seconds after starts the engine cannot maintain the rpm's and stalls... on again... WOW "SYSTEM VOLTAGE" "COM ERROR" almost no power in IC and strange noise, a high-pitched one, not very loud but perfectly audible came from engine, and engine stalls again... Well that's not very good news... start again... I don't like in cold engine, but I give it some throttle... irregular rpm's, up and down, hard to maintain the rpm's, but finally gets steady and engine goes OK... as soon as "TEMP COLD" message disappears from IC I'll check the voltage on IC and says 14.2v!!! what?? Voltage errors and have voltage?? I don't understand... | ||
| Timebandit |
In another thread, I posted some information that I received from direct contact with Compufire. I'll re-post it here just for the sake of continuity. I hope that double-posting this information isn't a problem. http://www.badweatherbikers.com/cgibin/discus/show .cgi?tpc=290431&post=2147559#POST2147559 >> "differences between compufire and CE 605 SB Kit? avantages of the 40 amp vs 30 amp for the 1125r?" I had tried to purchase the Compufire, but found it hard to locate anyone who had it in-stock. DennisKirk had the best price, but no available product. I checked with another on-line merchant who is popular in the forum links (can't remember who), and found the same problem -- great price, but no product. Finally, I contacted Compufire directly via email. I asked about available products and their tech specs. I was told by the factory that the Compufire 55402 is sold as a 40A regulator, but would actually handle 60A. The rep also said that it has the same footprint as the H-D 32A regulator. I asked the rep for more information about the product, including whether it was available for a direct purchase from the factory, and whether clipping the connectors would void the warranty. I also mentioned that I was looking to install it in a H-D product whose charging output was about 500W. As soon as I gave them enough information to figure out that I was talking about the 1125, the factory rep stopped responding to my emails. Take that for what it's worth. |
