| Author | Message | ||
     Duphuckincati |
For the moment I'm ignoring all the stuff in the manual about hot and cold oil level checks. With my CR on the stands and fully cold I set the oil level to the "full" hatch marks. Come back from a ride, just shut the motor off and let sit about ten minutes. Back on the stands the level is just below the "overfull" line. I'm not worried about that, but what's the reason for the complicated hot check in the manual? Why the idling period and all that? Every other motor I've had is just setting the level when cold and that's that. | ||
| Jdugger |
The complicated procedure is because of the Rotox motor's design. Hot check ensures the right amount of oil in the system as well as the reservoir during the motor's operation. Honestly, you can safely ignore oil checks all together by always using the same change procedure: 1. Drop the oil, filter and screen. Replace filter. 2. Pour in 3 quarts. 3. Repeat #1 and #2 when the shifting isn't perfectly silky. I have private correspondence from *several* Buell race teams since 2008 that "if there's any doubt, it's easier to just dump the oil and replace it" instead of using any kind of level check regime. | ||
| Sprintst |
idk why they don't just have you fill it until it runs over, then cap it. hard to even see the oil on dipsticks today. "when bike is cold, fill until it overruns, then cap" that would be easy! | ||
| Duphuckincati |
Some old bikes, Guzzi's for one, use that idea of a separate level plug that you fill to slight overflow then stop, at least at the gearbox and final drive. Back to the Buell, I'm trying to see if a slightly raised oil level helps with the clattering. Seems it did at one point but I've yet to recreate it. I do the 3 quarts at a change procedure too. | ||
| Jdugger |
High oil levels on these bikes make a mess in the airbox and under the seat. The 3qts approach really is the best I've seen. | ||
| Sprintst |
but the manual calls for 2.7 with a filter, so 3 would be a high oil level | ||
| Jdugger |
When you drop the screen, you get a bit more out. Maybe half a cup or so. | ||
| Swalker |
I could look at the manual, but what "screen" are you referring to? | ||
| Dannybuell |
the screen is inside the oil pump cover which is on the right underside of the motor. | ||
| Jcjohnson33 |
It's the cover just inside and towards the rear of the engine from the drain plug on the right side. It's shaped kinda of like an octagon with 5 screws holding it in place and you have to pry it out a little to get it to drop out. And on my bike I have to move the exhaust cuz the screws hit it | ||
| Jcjohnson33 |
It's the cover just inside and towards the rear of the engine from the drain plug on the right side. It's shaped kinda of like an octagon with 5 screws holding it in place and you have to pry it out a little to get it to drop out. And on my bike I have to move the exhaust cuz the screws hit it | ||
| Bob_thompson |
Jdugger; "High oil levels on these bikes make a mess in the airbox and under the seat." True, AND worst of all some can get sucked into the intake stream, although minute, it can coat the valves with carbon. There have been pictures posted on BadWeb before with this happening. That cannot be very good for long term longevity of the engine. My procedure after all the debates in 2008-2009 is: When changing oil; have level on stands, drain all cavities, new filter, add 2.7 qts. cold then add oil as needed to be just be seen on the bottom of the dipstick. About 4 more ozs. This will be in the middle of the low high marks when hot. Done. Looking into the intakes of my bike the valves look absolutely new. One note of caution; I recently went on a long vacation (almost 4 weeks) and my 2008 1125R was parked for that time. Before firing it up upon my return there was no oil showing on the dipstick. I knew there was no leaks so I fired it and warmed it up for 10 minutes. When I shut it down and checked it it was right in the normal level. Nuf said. FWIW. Bob |
