| Author | Message | ||
     Lemonchili_x1 |
Has anybody got normal clip-ons on their 1125R? I'm curious about the idea - does it make the steering any lighter through being wider and being not so far offset from the steering stem? I know that fitting them with the standard master cylinders can be a pain though, so if anyone has pics of their setup that would be great if you could post them up  cheers, chili | ||
| Jdugger |
I use them, and had a set fitted on the bike I just sold: http://jdugger.com/~jdugger/images/2009-1125r/IMAG 0094.jpg I have a set of the Erik Buell Racing clip-ons (originally intended for the B2, I believe) I could sell you. The clutch side is a bolt on. On the brake side you either mill off the mount for the remote res, or use a different MC. I use Vortex clip-ons now because I use a remote res MC on both the brake and clutch. As far as steering goes, the feel really depends on how you set the clip-ons up. With the Erik Buell Racing set, if you use the set screws and the Erik Buell Racing top triple, it has a pretty firm feel, much like a Ducati. I set mine to 151 degrees, which is a bit wider and flatter than the set screw, and it provides some nice leverage while still encouraging the rider's head to stay down. It's definitely a better set-up for sport/track riding. | ||
| Zecca |
what do you think of this? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Woodcraft-Clip-on-H andle-Bars-54mm-Buell-S1-S2-XB9-XB12-/230676216070 ?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item35b55fb 906 | ||
| Lemonchili_x1 |
Thanks guys. What I'm finding is that I can't throw the 1125R around and get it to change direction as quick as my X1. The suspension set up on the 1125R is good, it handles very well, but it feels like hard work to get it to change direction quickly, whereas the X1 is almost too light and fast. I can trim that with rear preload on the X1, but the 1125R doesn't seem to respond in the same way, and it's got me thinking wider bars that are closer to the rider might make a difference... I've been carefully tuning the suspension on the 1125R, and it's now better but I just can't seem to get that connected, confident feeling that I have with the X1 (and with my old GSXR that I had before the X1). | ||
| Froggy |
Are you still running the original tires? For some reason the Corsa 3's profile makes them hard to turn, swapping to any other tire helps tremendously. I'm running Pirelli Scorpion Trails on my R and Michelin Race tires on my CR, both feel fantastic and are overall better than Corsa 3 (in my opinion). | ||
| Lemonchili_x1 |
I went from the OEM's to Bridgestone BT016's and yes, they were definitely an improvement. | ||
| No_rice |
Bridgestone BT016 burn them up and swap them out! im running the pilot powers on the 1125r currently. not to many miles on them but i should know how i like them on that bike later next month when i get to put them to use in ga! i know they worked really well on the 9. even tracked them on that a few times. | ||
| No_rice |
play with your tire pressure some too. if your still running lower pressure(maybe from that trackday you did?) that will slow down the steering feeling too and make it seem a hair heavy. i run mine a little low, but im willing to accept that for the extra grip. | ||
| Cycledoc59 |
Yep, my Apex clip-ons, on top of the clamp, solved my comfort issue. Along with Ully pegs, it's now a great ride.  | ||
| Kruizen |
Just did a track day with Power Pures on, 30 rear, 28 front. And I would recommend this tire. Loved the feel and they held up great | ||
| Lemonchili_x1 |
Cycledoc - that's what I'm talking about! Your bars are inline with forks rather than being way out front, as well as wider. Do you think it changed the front end "feel" much? I'd assume the steering would feel lighter and more sensitive with the wider bars. Is that an E-B-R top clamp? Did you raise the forks in the clamp to get more area to grip? Tim - I have put the pressures back up! I think I ran 30F/28R at the the track. For the street I used to run 36F/38R, during winter I dropped it back to 32F/34R and still have it there, but it is starting to warm up now so may go back to the manuals 34F/36R. The one thing I have found is if the front 3psi or more lower than the back it becomes really hard to turn. I experimented on the way home last night... If I crouch down and drop my elbows it loosens up my arms and I am pushing forward on the bars (rather than pushing down and forwards) and the steering is a little lighter and faster that way I think. I need to experiment more. | ||
| Fast1075 |
I/m in with No_rice on the Pilot Powers. When I went from Corsa III to PP's on the ole 12s...it felt like the bike lost 50 pounds...I LIKE those tires. | ||
| No_rice |
 i personally always run them a couple more pounds in the front then in the rear, no matter what pressure im running(low or higher) | ||
| Cycledoc59 |
Lemonchilli; the new top clamp is much thinner that the original, which leaves enough room on top for a good clamp w/o moving fork legs up. We are all built differently; this is what it took for me to be happy. The Apex bars rotate to change angle, in addition to sliding up/down, and forward/back. Should adjust to make anyone happy! Mounted under the clamp was still too low for me... I did have to lengthen wires and reroute cables/brake lines, but all stock stuff worked. Tire wise, the bike understeered badly with a Pirelli Angel on front, and is wonderfully neutral with a Shinko Apex. It seems to like 35# up front.}  | ||
| Lemonchili_x1 |
i personally always run them a couple more pounds in the front then in the rear, no matter what pressure im running(low or higher) Wouldn't it steer like a pig when the tires are cold? I will give it a try though. I/m in with No_rice on the Pilot Powers. When I went from Corsa III to PP's on the ole 12s...it felt like the bike lost 50 pounds...I LIKE those tires. The Bridgestones seem ok to me, certainly not a bad tire, but maybe too stable? I don't think I'll get another set though. I might try Power 2CT's, or Pures, next... or Conti's or Dunlop Sportsmarts... There's lots to choose from at the moment. Cycledoc - They look very cool. I'm thinking a 4 inch set mounted below the clamp but with the riser set so the bar is just above the clamp would be good for me. 54mm right? I went for a ride with some friends this morning and experimented a little... forget my crouching theory, if I make sure I'm all loose it's still not that quick changing direction. Reducing rear rebound damping seemed to at least help get some more feel in the front though. I have a new theory, but need to do some research before I make a fool of myself...  | ||
| No_rice |
What I ment. Was I run. Say, 38 front 36 rear.35 front 32 rear.. The less air in the front the flatter the profile of the tire will be. The more air, the rounder the tire will be. Rounder or more peaked tire the faster/easier the tip in will be. All of this is to an extent. It can be over done both ways. | ||
| Lemonchili_x1 |
I understood what you meant . I will try running the rear a few pounds lower than the front and see what it's like. My crazy theory is... the center of gravity of the 1125R is too low. Well, too low for my liking anyway. Note that I only weigh 170lbs + gear, and I run the standard exhaust. The too low c-of-g theory would explain why the bike is hard to flick side to side and the lack of "feel". It would also be more noticeable for me jumping between the X1 with its relatively high c-of-g and the 1125. Fixes... Raise the back? Lighter exhaust? Higher bars? Leave the touring seat on? Eat more chocolate?  | ||
| Lemonchili_x1 |
Cycledoc - Were the Apex bars very long? Did you cut them down at all? | ||
| Cycledoc59 |
To install the Apex bars below the CNC clamp requires that maybe .050 is removed from the clamp ends for clearance. I did so and installed them below for awhile; too low for me... Nothing cut, except trimming of the "joints" to fit the master cylinders. The main reason for the low center of gravity, and mass centralization was to better enable "flickability"; easy, quick turn in. Ask yourself if the bike has completely neutral steering. Usually when any bike feels sluggish and difficult to turn, it's due to understeering. You are correct; higher rear and/or lower front quickens/eases steering. But the biggest factor is front tire profile. My bike was miserable to ride w/the Angel tire up front. A 120 mile romp down the Blue Ridge Pkwy a couple weeks ago at 60mph was no fun. Understeering costs traction, scrubs out the tire, and wears out the rider..... If a little more air, up to 40psi, and adjusting preload front and rear doesn't produce neutrality, another tire is likely the answer. So far, the Shinko Apex is the trick. When I got my bike, it had a 190 on the rear. Bad idea; a wider rear tire also slows steering, and can produce some understeer. | ||
| Lemonchili_x1 |
A question for those who've installed a different exhaust on their 1125R - Did the different exhaust make the bike more "flickable" or easier/faster to change direction? | ||
| Rodrob |
Yes. | ||
| Avalaugh |
I rode a few different bikes today, they feel light when you get on them compared to the 1125, and light in the bends, but not as much feel ? I can definatly corner faster on the 1125, but then it's my bike. It's all part of the charm I suppose, but does make you wonder ?? I'm running Michelin power ones, wearing nice and evenly compared to all my last tyres, corsa III, bridgestone BT014's, maxxis super sport, the other good tyre was a pirelli diablo super corsa's but they wore out too quick. | ||
| Lemonchili_x1 |
Yes. Thanks Rodrob. I rode a few different bikes today, they feel light when you get on them compared to the 1125, and light in the bends, but not as much feel ? I can definatly corner faster on the 1125, but then it's my bike. That "my bike" bonding with my 1125R has been a very slow process. While it's an easy bike to ride, and it's never, ever "bitten me", I can't just jump on it and ride it quickly and throw it around like the X1. I may be getting closer to the right setup though... I've done a bit of playing around with setup over the last few days, trying different combinations of front and rear preload - dropping the front, dropping the front and back, raising the front and back (to raise the c-of-g) and raising the front - to get a feel for the different extremes. The 1125R definitely responds to changes differently to any other bike I've ever owned! What I found was that raising the front (max preload on the front, position 5 on the rear shock) improved the front end feel for me while only slowing the steering a tiny amount. I have since dropped the forks in the clamps a small amount, about 5mm, so I can adjust the preload correctly. The steering now seems more "direct" and I think I can feel more of what the front tire is doing. Relatively the bike feels as if it's a bit top heavier than before and I can throw it around more confidently. I'll ride it for a few days and see how it goes, but it definitely seems more like how I prefer a bike to me. In hindsight I can see where I went wrong, and the preload settings in the manual now make more sense to me. I had been riding with close to the factory settings for a long time on the OEM tires and the bike was ok. After I changed to the BT016's I wanted to make the bike change direction faster so I started down the path of reducing front preload to lower the front. i personally always run them a couple more pounds in the front then in the rear, no matter what pressure im running(low or higher) After I did all of the above, I'm now trying the higher pressure in the front. Feels pretty good Long term I'd still like to try the Apex bars and a lighter exhaust | ||
| Stirz007 |
Vortex, with Brembos:  |
