| Author | Message | ||
     Bballard10 |
When I pull in the clutch lever it doesn't have enough travel to disengage the clutch. I have adjustable levers and they are all the way out, even with this its a complete struggle. As soon as I shift into 1st the bike jumps and stalls telling me the clutch is still engaging. Any ideas? | ||
| Kinder |
Assuming these are new levers are they made for the buell or did tehy just seem to fit? Different pin lengths could affect that. I also suppose air in the system could also do it as they are hydraulic? | ||
| Dannybuell |
Is the clutch lever factory? | ||
| Jdugger |
As you pull the lever in, do you feel any change in resistance? In particular, does it get a decent bit firmer right before the lever hits the bar? How's your fluid level in the res? | ||
| Methyman |
Clutch weep or master cylinder by passing? | ||
| Froader4life |
check fluid level | ||
| Bballard10 |
Yes, right before it hits the grip is the friction point but its barely there. I had the stock levers on there and partially why i bought the aftermarket (designed for the 1125r) ones. Didn't fix the problem. Fluid about 1/4 of the way up the little view hole. The line labeled "lower" is about half way up. Left side is for the clutch and right side is for braking correct? Just to make sure ha, never know! I can try adding more fluid tomorrow if this is low. thanks for all of your input! | ||
| Sportster_mann |
What year bike ? Don't overfill the fluid reservoir - make sure there is a gap to allow the fluid to expand - the theory is if there is nowhere for the fluid to expand to then it could blow the clutch seals ... | ||
| Ratbuell |
don't ever just swap parts to try and fix an issue. figure out the source of the problem. my guess is either a bad diaphragm seal, or it needs bled (air in the lines), or fluid level is wrong one way or the other. did any particular event cause the initial problem? drop the bike? get it serviced? long trip? change handlebars? | ||
| Rob_l |
Try static bleed. Take cover off master cyl. put suitable hose on bleeder and a container at other end of hose open bleeder watch for fluid to drop in master keep topped off. If fluid doesn't drop ck for obstruction in cyl. inlet port. If still no flow (dynamic bleed) squeeze lever with bleeder open when lever touches bar close bleeder and repeat. Or with closed bleeder pump lever hold to bar open bleeder close bleeder repeat. don't forget to keep fluid topped off. HTH | ||
| Avalaugh |
My guess is the fluid is low and air has got into the line. Bleed line and top fluid up as suggested but then find the cause of fluid loss, I'm thinking leaking clutch cylinder, what year bike ? The later rev B cover will loose more fluid before it come out the weep hole. Pop off the puck on the right hand side, it should be dry and clean inside there. | ||
| Avalaugh |
And re-fit the original lever incase you've done something wrong, just rules that out too. | ||
| Jdugger |
> Yes, right before it hits the grip is the friction point but its barely there. Bleed the clutch, you are out of fluid in the res. | ||
| Boogiman1981 |
+1 on out of fluid. i did a static bleed not long ago and i think i let a little air in by accident.... haven't bled it out yet | ||
| Bballard10 |
The bike is an '08 and pretty sure its a rev A cover. On the master cylinder the line labeled "lower" means keep it lower then the mark? I was going to get new levers anyways... that was just timing. The problem was initiated with the stock ones and carried through to the aftermarket. If it fixed it, perfect, if not then Id keep tinkering. Seems like the problem came when it got hot here, I live in AZ so it gets brutally hot. Bleeding it tomorrow, hopefully thats it! | ||
| Avalaugh |
Red herring ???? No to keeping the fluid below the LOW line !!!!! That means it's too low...... |
