Author |
Message |
Gpb
| Posted on Wednesday, August 24, 2011 - 05:19 pm: |
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I'll do a cold check tomorrow morning. Should I need to add some oil, what could be a good replacement for the specified H-D (the nearest HD point is 60 km away...). Would a good synthetic 20W-50 be ok? |
Daggar
| Posted on Wednesday, August 24, 2011 - 05:42 pm: |
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Make sure you follow the oil check procedure to the letter. I use Amsoil 20W-50. I'll be switching to 10W-40 at the next change. |
Nuts4mc
| Posted on Wednesday, August 24, 2011 - 06:28 pm: |
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it's not a Ducati or a Moto Guzzi(!)- the Buell has a "wet" clutch... (like an Aprila!) try and stay with Motorcycle approved synthetic oil (Motul?) do NOT use automotive synthetic oil it may have has friction reducers ("energy conserving")that will make the clutch slip. Here in the states Motorcycle Oil has a JASMO rating on the back of the bottle which makes it compatible with the wet clutch in your Buell. 10W-40(<10degc)20w-50(>20 deg C) |
Dannybuell
| Posted on Wednesday, August 24, 2011 - 07:42 pm: |
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Nuts4mc +100 |
Stirz007
| Posted on Wednesday, August 24, 2011 - 07:44 pm: |
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Red Line (using 20w-50 currently) works just fine... |
Azxb9r
| Posted on Wednesday, August 24, 2011 - 08:11 pm: |
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Mobil 1 20w50 V-twin oil works fine and is easy to find. Other than that, any motorcycle approved oil will work in an emergency. |
Nuts4mc
| Posted on Wednesday, August 24, 2011 - 09:11 pm: |
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Note! - the OP is in Italy! |
Azxb9r
| Posted on Wednesday, August 24, 2011 - 09:45 pm: |
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}Note! - the OP is in Italy! That could affect availability of different brands abit couldnt it |
Jules
| Posted on Thursday, August 25, 2011 - 07:00 am: |
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The "stock" oil is a semi-synthetic. I'm not a fan of mixing mineral based and synthetics as they tend to make the clutch slip. If you can find a decent motorcycle semi-synthetic 20/50 I'd use that until your next oil change and then go for a 10/40 fully synthetic. |
Gpb
| Posted on Saturday, August 27, 2011 - 06:32 pm: |
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One more question: I cannot fully understand the reason for two different procedures to check oil level. Is each one appropriate in particular cases, or are they equivalent? |
Nuts4mc
| Posted on Saturday, August 27, 2011 - 07:46 pm: |
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liquids expand when heated...since you ride the bike at operating temperature..I would suggest that the "Hot" procedure is used to verify any questionable reading you may have obtained when the bike was "cold" |
Thefleshrocket
| Posted on Saturday, August 27, 2011 - 10:18 pm: |
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Here's how I check the oil. Brake hard (like as hard as you can without lifting the back tire) from 60 or 70mph several times. If the oil light doesn't come on, you've got enough oil in the motor. If the light comes on, add 1/4 of a quart and run the test again. Yes, I'm serious. |
Zac4mac
| Posted on Sunday, August 28, 2011 - 01:22 am: |
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Cold check is "ballpark", if any is on the stick, you're good. Hot Check is +/- a few ml. Hot Check is best(follow to the letter) when any doubt. Zack PS, I drop my oil and filter, add 3 Qt and call it good till next time. 2008 early R model. |
Avalaugh
| Posted on Sunday, August 28, 2011 - 06:19 am: |
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I do same as zac4mac, although I've had to add oil twice as oil light came on during hard braking. When I changed it last week only 2.5 ltrs came out so mine is using a bit of oil. |