| Author | Message | ||
     Juniorkirk |
Made it to Iowa on my 2000 mile journey from Cali to Iowa with a stop at sturgis in there (saw the 1190RS there). Thing is, it's having some charging issues and some power fluxing in the instrument cluster and the voltage. First the charging. Once I got to mount Rushmore I started noticing that she was kind of sluggish on starting up, and i was putting on 100+ miles between each stop so don't know why she was having problems. Next I started noticing the instrument cluster back light was pulsing from normal to dim pretty fast, and when I switched over to see what the volts were reading, didn't like what I saw. At idle it got down to 11.4 volts for idling, and at about a constant 4,000 RPM it would go from 13.0 to 14.1, but never stay stayed, just kept going up and down. I hooked up a battery tender to it and it was only charging for about 45 minutes before it said it was done. Took it for another spin and filled up with gas and when I went to start it, the IC back light shut off and didn't want to start until the 5th try. What could be going on with my baby? Made the trek home but started acting sick in the Black Hills. Oh, mods are E B R ECM, and HIDs in the low beams, and never used the high beams during the whole trip | ||
| Froggy |
Original battery? It probably is on its way out. | ||
| Juniorkirk |
No, I put this battery in the bike back in January, so it should still be good | ||
| Two_seasons |
New to you doesn't mean a new battery. Some of them are on the shelves for years before you get them. I'd take it to a local battery shop and have them load test the battery. | ||
| Juniorkirk |
I bought it from Al at asb and he made sure it had a nice charge on it for me | ||
| Juniorkirk |
Well, thinking now, I did kind of 'weld' with it. Accidentally touched the two posts on the sub frame and had to charge it again, but it hasn't given me any problems for the last 2 months since it happened until now. | ||
| Juniorkirk |
Got a load test done on the battery and they are saying it's 100% good, fully charged and putting out 12.9 volts. | ||
| Nuts4mc |
a) Get a low cost volt meter – measure the voltage of the “fully charged” battery – disconnected from the bike = 12.1- 12.9 VDC?? - leave it disconnected over nite chk it again in the AM ..did you get the same reading? A big drop ( meter reading 11-10 volts) this will give you some indication of battery “health”…overnite it should not drop. (Oops you're too fast for an old guy like me - looks like you've proven the Batt is AOK) b) It’s not the battery …hook it back up to the bike- start the bike and connect the meter to the battery…increase RPM – voltage go up? = good, voltage go down = bad…voltage stay the same ….need more data…go for a 10-20 min ride – chk it again c) Nothing is happening…volts stay the same at the meter? – start the bike let it idle…keep the meter connected – once the fans come on – the meter should record something – ( hopefully voltage goes up)…if not – the Voltage regulator is bad…decision time – replace with another OEM/Shindengen/ Compfire? d) Battery and VR chk out OK? – wiring problem somewhere in front …how “neat” did you wire the HIDs? – is there a connector loose on the main harness?...what about the stator connector from the engine to the VR ( the yellow wires) discolored? Chk the connector/connection How was the trip any other “adventures”? good luck! |
