| Author | Message | ||
     Wbrisett |
Yesterday the ambient temperature was suppose to be 106 or so around here. The replacement clutch cable for my Uly (I screwed a replacement up earlier this week by over torquing it) came in, so I rode up to the dealership on my CR to pick up the cable. I have a couple of lights I have to go through to get to the dealership. At the second light I look down on the instrument cluster and see the "ambient" temperature sensors reading 145! Holy cow, I don't think I've ever seen the CR hit that before. Yikes! ... and I wonder why I'm on my third stator. | ||
| Hybridmomentspass |
the AT light isnt accurate when not moving very fast/stopped etc. If I remember right, the sensor is right near the front header, so lots of heat coming off of that thing. Hell just yesterday I was stopped at a light, it was about 85* outside, AT reading was 105..... they arent accurate unless moving for several minutes | ||
| Avalaugh |
They are accurate, just need to be relocated. Stock sensor is in the intake snorkel mouth right between the radiator fans, when they are on hot air is blown all over the sensor. I've located mine here  Much more accurate, it does go up when static, but nothing like the stock location. | ||
| Avalaugh |
I also tried it inside the airbox, but heat soak was a issue and it took ages for temps to drop back down. | ||
| Blake |
Wondering why it isn't located in the intake itself as on automobiles. Very important to keep those sensors clean. A little pollen or dust accumulation causes the sensor to read higher than actual temperature, which in turn can lead to leaner fuel mixture in open loop mode. Our old Ford Explorer used to have that problem. It would start to ping, I'd had to clean the thing every year after pollen season. | ||
| Blake |
The pavement may well be near 145F, so no telling what the air reaching the engine may get to. It might not be off by as much as you think. Though I agree that sitting still may not render a reliable reading. | ||
| Wbrisett |
I agree with folks, standing still isn't the ideal way to get a reading. However, even moving along at near 45 my reading was still in the high 130 range yesterday. I was stationed at MCAS Yuma (AZ), and many times on the tarmac we would having readings of near 150 degrees (if you stood still on the asphalt long enough, your feet would start to burn from the heat coming up through the soles of your boots). Anyhow, I was just shocked to see a reading this high. I've seen some fairly high readings, but never above 120 until yesterday. Wayne | ||
| Boogiman1981 |
i moved mine to airbox for a while but the heat soak issue got me so then i moved it to the left pod fan runs and draws air across even if i am not moving | ||
| Ohsoslow |
i think some of you guys are missing the point of this sensor, its main function is for the ECM to determine fuel and timing (there are several other factors that play into this as well) based on the temp of the air entering the intake. its nice that they let us see what that sensor is reading but its more for the engine than it is for us. | ||
| Gofastalot99 |
I have to agree with Ohsoslow. If we agree that the sensor is accurate, then it is reading the temperature of the air entering the airbox, which the ECM uses to determine fueling requirements. Why would we move that sensor to provide an air temperature reading that is lower than what the engine is truly seeing? | ||
| Ratgin |
mines hot enough that on a cold day here today being in stop and go traffic for 5 minutes blistered 3 coats of paint and 3 of clear coat off the side of the belly pan. Yes its got plenty of clearance. (Message edited by ratgin on August 11, 2011) | ||
| Sparky |
I was thinking of building an extension to the air intake snorkel that would go out to the front edge of the fairing on a R, making it wider and hopefully function like a ram air scoop. If it works, it might admit cooler air to the the airbox when both fans are pushing hot air than without it. | ||
| Avalaugh |
just my 2c, if its reading mega high intake temps it will lean off the fuel, thats not what these engines need. There has been some discussion on this sensor before, i think the final outcome was that it really didnt effect fueling that much if at all, mines been there for ages now and have had 0 problems. Just get accurate ambient temps. | ||
| Two_seasons |
I have to agree with Ohsoslow. The ECM takes that info and makes sure there is MORE fueling happening, such as a slow traffic or waiting at a light. | ||
| Avalaugh |
Surely hot air is less dense so therefore LESS fuel would be required ? | ||
| Rogue_biker |
Hot air is less dense than cool air. But more fuel will have a cooling effect and will help in keeping detonation away. However, I don't think this is a problem with 1125R's. If I designed the FI software I would program it to take into a larger account from the Coolant Temp and less on the Ambient Temp to adjust fuel mixture. I was thinking AT is more for "rider information" purposes? If it was that important you would think Rotax would have directed Buell to put the AT sensor where an accurate reading is more likely! Yeah. On an 80 F day and going along at slow speeds my AT reading will go up to 100+! | ||
| Avc8130 |
1. How much more accurate can you get? The sensor is located in the air stream heading to the engine. This is a typical location used in the automotive world. 2. I have seen the corrections in the ECM. There is essentially none under 100F. Above 100F fuel is removed...but only slightly. This is definitely about FINE tuning. I think the main issue is that Buell chose to display this on the cluster and to label it "AT". Most seem to feel this means "Ambient Temperature". In reality this is the output from the "IAT" sensor. That stands for Intake Air Temperature sensor. If that sensor reads 120F...your engine is breathing air ~120F...the temperature the sign at the bank you are passing says is 100% irrelevant. There were MANY threads about this in the past. Guys were moving sensors all over the bike thinking they could "fix" something. In reality, there is nothing to "fix". The sensor reads something, and the ECM makes a decision based on it to fuel the engine. If you think you can get more "accurate" by moving the sensor somewhere, you are drinking snake oil. The ECM and its parameters were developed with the sensor mounted where it is. Moving it may result in the need for a shift in parameters. For all we know, Buell knows that when the IAT sensor shows 120F, the ACTUAL temperature of the air in the airbox is 130F and the ECM parameters are set based on that. Don't mess with it. There is plenty of stuff actually WRONG with these bikes. Focus on fixing those. ac (Message edited by avc8130 on August 12, 2011) (Message edited by avc8130 on August 12, 2011) | ||
| Kinder |
By relocating the sensor all you're gonna do is mess up your fueling. Some people add a resistor into it to 'fool' the ecm that the air is colder thus it gives more fuel. Bike then runs rich. Bad idea... |
