| Author | Message | ||
     Stimbrell |
Was speaking to the techs at the dealer about checking the ACV from the stator as mine, and others on here, have found two legs good and one showing only a few volts and was told this was the harness doing it's job and did not mean the stator had a problem, so I was wondering, how can I temporarily disable the harness to check the ACV from the stator, disconnect the relay? any thoughts welcome. | ||
| Tbowdre |
There is a connector that attaches the harness to the direct output of the stator, under the seat. Check AC volts at this point you may need a pic? i do not have such a thing | ||
| Jules |
If you're checking the ACV then in theory the harness has to be disconnected to do that.. If you look at the harness removal video, the plug nearest the airbox cover is the 3 (yellow) wire cable that goes to the stator. Unplug that connector and check there.. Should be ~35V AC at ~3000 RPM across all 3 pairs. The harness won't be doing anything then as it's disconnected. At least I hope that's the case as that's how I tested mine. I can't think of any reason the harness would be involved once that plug is disconnected..but then again i could be wrong... | ||
| Stimbrell |
Jules, I tested the plug nearest the airbox as you say, made sense to me but the dealer, they say NO. (Sorry bit of Brit humour.) | ||
| Pmjolly |
Jules is correct. The dealer is wrong. | ||
| Htekwo |
As it relates to this test, when checking the output, where are the leads of the volt meter placed? When checking DC, you would touch the hot lead to the out put, and the ground lead to a good chassis ground. When checking AC, you need a positive lead and a neutral return. Where are the leads placed when checking AC on this motorcycle? One lead on one of the terminals from the Yellow wires and the other lead on one of the other yellow leads, or something different? I have not had this explained to me in a clear way. Thanks in advance. | ||
| Jules |
Yes it's exactly that. There are 3 wires, so if you just consider them to be 1, 2 and 3 then you test across 1 and 2, then 1 and 3, then 2 and 3. If you do it that way you only need to move one probe at a time. I hope that's a clear (enough) explanation (?) | ||
| Stimbrell |
Yes, test across the yellow wires, 1-2, 1-3 and 2-3. I did not get twenty miles after getting the bike back before the battery light was on and the dreaded "system voltage" came up, at least it has thrown a code now so there is proof of the fault. Edit: Jules beat me to it. (Message edited by stimbrell on July 10, 2011) | ||
| Bueller4ever |
The dealer tech is an idiot. If you unplug the stator connector and test there, then there is nothing else connected to the stator to reduce it's output. | ||
| Ratbuell |
Where does it say you get 35VAC at 3000 rpm? My manual (2009) says 45-55: AC Output Check 1. Test AC output as follows: a. Disconnect voltage regulator connector [46] from alternator stator wiring. b. See Figure 3-18. Connect an AC voltmeter across stator connector terminals 1-2. c. Run the engine at 3000 RPM. The AC output should be 45-55 Volts AC. d. Repeat the test across terminals 2-3 and 1-3. I would assume the OP has an '09 since he speaks of having the harness... | ||
| Jules |
Yep, of course you are right.. 35-40 for an 08, 45-55 for an 09.. It'll still be pretty obvious if one "pair" has failed.. Mine showed 2.2VAC output and 35VAC on the other two (mine is an 09) | ||
| Htekwo |
OK, I have been running on a Custom Rewinds Stator for 3 weeks now. While riding last weekend (extremely spirited back roads, with 40 miles of highway to get there). When I left the house, it was charging at 13.5-14.0. At the last of the ride (about 200 miles total), it started to drop to about 12.5 while riding, and 12.0 while idling! Called the wife, trailered it home. I checked the output today per above instructions, and was getting 22vac out of all legs, 16vdc out of the regulator and 12.8vdc at the battery. The Custom Rewinds Stator was wound with thinner wire to drop the output and keep it from over heating. Seems this advice is opposite of the current thinking which is to wind it with thicker wire, and possibly less windings to lower the output. Any reason that all legs seem to be doing their job, but my battery is still not charging (and charging is erratic and changes from initial startup, to operating temp)? | ||
| Jules |
Would it be correct to assume you have removed the subharness, that makes a difference to the diagnnosis.. Not to the AC output of the Stator but to the voltages at the battery.. When you tested the voltage output at home did you take the bike out for a blast first to get it up to roughly the same temperature as during your previous outing? Was the output 22VAC at 3000 RPM across all 3 pairs? If so what output did you ask the rewinder to give you? I'm firmly in the "thicker than std" wire camp as it makes mores sense to me (thicker wire should produce less heat - at least that's how it works in my head). ======================================= The next bit may be completely wrong - it's more of a question to other more knowledgeable people: With a output of 22VAC it sounds to me like the stator is producing less than 300W which won't be enough to charge the bike and keep all of the other systems running. Is my maths way off base? With my "dodgy" stator in the bike I am getting ~35VAC across 2 pairs (and not a lot across the other) but that would still seem to indicate I am getting more output from my fried stator (~340W)than Htekwo is from his rewound one currently. I realise I have significantly simplified the maths to arrive at those figures.... are they completely wrong? (Message edited by jules on July 11, 2011) |
