| Author | Message | ||
     Buelldr |
I'm in the market for some Hid lights for 1125cr. anyone know of some reliable online stores to purchase from with specs included? I don't know what to but. Thanks for all your help you guys are awesome! | ||
| Rogue_biker |
American Sportbike. | ||
| Juniorkirk |
I bought mine from al at American Sport Bike and I love them. Got about 5,000 miles on them and they are still going strong. I THOUGHT I had a problem with them and asked him about it. He replies not knowing but went ahead and forwarded my question to the actual manufacturer and found out it was due to low charge on my battery. | ||
| Catalan42 |
I have the HID light from American Sport Bike on my Ulysses low beam and like it a lot. I left the high beam alone as it takes about 30 seconds for the HID to fully "warm up" - not compatible with "blinking", etc. | ||
| Thefleshrocket |
Dear misleading thread titles.. I've clicked on this thread twice expecting it to be a discussion of reliability of the 1125. Why is it so hard for some people to make thread titles that actually describe the thread content? Something like, "What is a good vendor from which to buy HID lights for my 1125?" (Message edited by thefleshrocket on May 05, 2011) | ||
| Sl33py |
I have the DDM Tuning 55w slim sets in mine. Love them. I've had one ballast be a bit flaky and not fire up every time (1 in 50 - usally seems when it's really cold out). keeping an eye on it and will swap if it gets worse. I just shut off and restart and that works so far. I went with the 3k color temp - great for rain, occasional fog etc. 55w is sweet - i think i have about 7 or 8x the output of stock now. | ||
| Fresnobuell |
I've had one ballast be a bit flaky and not fire up every time (1 in 50 - usally seems when it's really cold out). How do you deal with this on your bike? I have the same occurrence in my 55w DDMs in my truck and I flip the lights on and off until the suspect ballast fires up. Thanks | ||
| Sl33py |
I basically do the same - its always one side, i turn the key off (bike not running yet) and back on (still not started) and it fires up. Usually when cold out. I have the voltage harness i thought i might need, but it's been an easy fix vs running the power wire from battery. I may swap ballasts and see if it's the first in line that works, second not, or the same ballast every time regardless. It's been nearly 2 years and otherwise no issues. Very rare occurrence, but i check by reaching over the cowl and check both are on before starting. | ||
| Fresnobuell |
Very rare occurrence, but i check by reaching over the cowl and check both are on before starting. that was my next question. I don't really want to have to do that. I have a 35W pair of DDMs waiting for my R. I am keeping my finger crossed they work correctly. funny, but I bought my riding buddy a set of 55W DDMS for his Avalanche and he has one flaky ballast too. | ||
| Sl33py |
Fresno - i don't really sweat it - the single bulb is still 3x the power of both stock. i think when i did the comparison the stockers put out 1500w or so? A single 55w puts out 5000w. Most of the time it hasn't been an issue. either low'ish battery (mine needs to replaced - sulfated it looks like) or cold temp (maybe also battery related). I've been tending my bike most evenings and no issues... probably a combination of items. I know i can narrow it down by changing the battery (warranty item next service), and maybe swapping hte ballast order in wiring (just the plugs no cutting). IF i get the time i'll make sure and update you here. | ||
| Skntpig |
I have had zero issues with my DDMs turning on in a full year. | ||
| Syonyk |
I'm not sure what ballasts I have, but one of mine is unhappy in the cold as well. I thought one side was getting less voltage, so I merged the wires going to the lights (joined both plugs on the bike into one common wire that splits out to the HIDs), but this didn't fix it. It's only an issue in the winter. I'll get around to replacing the ballast, or (better) run wires up from the battery and put a switch on it so I can start the bike without the HID draw in the winter. I need to run some wires up there anyway, since I'm planning to mount a Stebel airhorn or two up there. Tapping into that circuit for my lights wouldn't hurt - I can just rewire everything off that circuit with relays. | ||
| Jrfitzny |
The only complaint I have is the lack of places to put the ballasts. I have 2 for my low beams...I guess I need another 2 for my high beams, and I wanted to replace the running lights as well <sigh> | ||
| Sl33py |
Good to hear i'm not the only one with the single ballast being problematic. I have the power wire i can run, just haven't done it yet. It seems with a full charge on the batt and it's not too cold - no problems. JrFitzny - highs too huh? I didn't do that since the HID's aren't fast enough to "flash" if you need/want to. Lows are still brighter than all 4 before going HID. running lights are small 194 blade type bulbs - i think the best you can do is LEDs. I like superbrightleds.com - tons of bulbs from them for an old landcruiser or three. | ||
| Syonyk |
I wouldn't use HIDs for highs. I like to flash mine. I put in 55W bulbs. They're the same physical dimensions as the 35W ones in the bike, but the base needs some modification. If the stock bulbs are H9, use H11s, otherwise swap the other way. You'll need a pair of tin snips or something to modify the base to fit. | ||
| Rodrob |
I have the DDM 55W. Great. One ballast went south and they replaced it under warranty right away. | ||
| Kinder |
For those with the not turning on at start up sometimes... Add a capacitor and that should fix the prob.  | ||
| Rodrob |
Nice! | ||
| Zac4mac |
I hope that's on the lo-volt side of the ballast....  | ||
| Syonyk |
*eep* I hope you did *something* to insulate those before putting them back in! But that's actually a really good idea. If I can't resolve it by running power up to the front direct from the battery, I'll throw some caps on it. I'm hoping a switch/relay set will totally resolve it - I want to be able to switch them totally off for track days and cold weather starts. I figure if I start the bike with the lights off, let it idle a bit and bring the voltage up, *then* flip the HIDs on, there won't be any issues with voltage/them lighting. <.< And I want more switches to throw in the startup process. | ||
| Kinder |
That's not a pic of mine. It's just the best pic I could find that shows how to wire it and what capacitor to use. Mine are very well insulated. More like this cept I used heat shrink.  | ||
| Syonyk |
Ah, ok. I was hoping that was the case.  Sadly, I just was linked to a photo set of someone installing a tidy tail on a Ninja. They drilled the holes from the outside. Without checking what was directly inside. Hint: The ECU lives there, and the bike wouldn't start afterwards. I may have to try that... (the caps, not the drilling through the ECU!) | ||
| Arcticcr |
Questions: 1. How are you guys packaging the HID kit / ballast? 2. Is the kit sensitive to vibration? 3. How is it wired, hardwired, plug and play? 4. What other modifications are required, drilling so on, if any? Thanks, Jay | ||
| Ohsoslow |
1. everything fit behind the front cover on my cr with ease. 2. does not seem to be 3. it was plug and play on the CR im not sure on the R models (they use different bulbs) 4. none on mine just used two sided tape to secure the ballast. oh i have the DDM tunning slim kit on mine. | ||
| Zac4mac |
I put my HID kit in 3 years ago. Simple plug-n-play, no drilling or splicing. I got the large ballasts and they each have two zip-ties holding them to the fairing stays down low. A little over 20k miles on the HIDs, wired straight in, no relay. 35W 6800K lo-beams, 2008 1125R with heated grips. Still on original stator/rotor/RR/Battery. 26.6k miles total. Z | ||
| Pmjolly |
I stacked my ballasts in the nose of the fairing under the windscreen. The wiring went under the instruments, behind the headlights. I used double sided 3m tape to secure them. They have not been sensitive to vibration. I have found that some of the kits are plug and play, while mine had to be hardwired. No drilling required. I did both the low and high beams on my R. People that like to flash the high beams will not want to do both. It takes too long for the ballasts to warm up for flashing the high beams. I am glad I did both. My extra bright high beams made it easier to negotiate the twisty roads at the Dragon when I rode back to the hotel at 11:00 at night. I could turn off my super bright high beams for oncoming cars, and they would still come right back on after the car passed. By the way, I do not recommend riding the Dragon's Tail or similar extremely twisty road at night. It's not as much fun. haha. | ||
| Marcodesade |
I had a great idea (I thought): I velcroed them to the grey piece inside the triple that houses the wiring harness. Looks awesome! But is RIGHT in the way of the forks at full turn (both sides) and the clutch line. Bah. I'm wondering now if the wires are long enough to mount them in the cavern where the 'noid used to be. | ||
| Juniorkirk |
Pmjolly, I did the same thing with mine. here is a picture of mine are set up   | ||
| Kinder |
^ looks nice sitting there. | ||
| Ezblast |
Yeah it does! EZ |
