| Author | Message | ||
     Jeepinbueller |
I'm due for a tire change soon (new PR2's should show up today) and I've been bouncing back and forth between getting the wheels powder-coated a gloss or semi-gloss white. Something easier to clean than the textured black, and mixing it up a little bit. I saw someone else who got them done (a red CR just like mine) and that kind of swayed my decision--it looks GREAT! Local shop quoted me $90 to strip and powder-coat if I remove the tires, valve stems, brake equipment, and bearings. Having to remove all that stuff kind of bumps the price up a bit: Strip/powder-coat - $90.00 Front wheel bearings - $39.90 Rear wheel bearings - $47.10 Rear brake hardware - $12.00 Front brake hardware - $62.95 Valve stem core remover tool - $3.95 Puts me at $165.90 plus shipping, which actually isn't bad. Question: Should I upgrade to the new rear set up with three bearings? Or do I have to replace the entire rear wheel to do that? Just wondering, since I have to replace the rear bearing anyway. Am I missing anything? And can someone post of the dood who did this already? I searched and couldn't find the gosh darn pictures! Thanks! (Message edited by JeepinBueller on May 03, 2011) | ||
| Hammer71 |
I own a powder shop and thats right about where the price should be (per wheel). As far as the parts, remove everything yourself as there arent too many people that arent familiar with our bikes. Although just removing bolts and bearings seems to be a simple job, many people strip the torx bolts and screw up the races when removing bearings. Prep on those should be clean,strip, dry, outgass, blast, clean again then color. Ask about his process and if this isnt it request that its done this way. Not sure of your year bike which dictates how many bearing you have/need. Im assuming you dont have the 3 bearing setup and my opinion would be to leave it the way it is as you would need a new wheel for that setup. | ||
| Sprintst |
My blue wheels get FILTHY every single ride (especially the rear) and I do have the turn-out exhaust tips White wheels seem like a nightmare to me | ||
| Tougelabs |
Do you guys live in Beverly Hills  ? My guy charges me 40 bucks a rim on my race car and that rim is 17x10+15... | ||
| Bueller4ever |
This pictures is on buelletinboard, is that it?  | ||
| Rogue_biker |
If you powdercoat it a flat color, it's going to be just has hard to keep clean. The flat color leaves microscopic pits that dirt loves to live in. This is why the "textured" black/diamond blue on our bikes are so hard to keep clean and seem to get dirty right away. They are flat finish. If you go with a flat finish, make sure they clearcoat it. Clearcoating it puts a smooth finish to it that keeps dirt/debris on the surface and easier to clean. So after the flat white coat, put a coat of clear on it (or several coats). Although I think clearcoating it deminishes the flat color so that it comes out "semi-gloss". | ||
| Ratbuell |
I have white wheels on two of my tubers. They look great....until I get the hose put away after a wash. That's about how long it lasts. To answer your question about the rear wheel...the 3 bearing setup is a completely different wheel. And axle. | ||
| 07xb12ss |
Hey that's me! | ||
| Pmjolly |
I know that rider in the picture. I think I was about half a mile behind him. | ||
| 07xb12ss |
Mine are gloss white - got lots of compliments on them and they wipe clean very easily. Best decision ever as far as wheels go, considering they are the hardest part of the bike to clean. |
