| Author |
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Rodrob
| | Posted on Friday, March 04, 2011 - 12:13 pm: | 
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Sears has External Torx sockets:
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_009345700 00P?prdNo=3&blockNo=3&blockType=G3
Problem is, while they say they have them, they don't actually have them (at least in my area). All they have in stock are the spline version. Argh! |
Reepicheep
| | Posted on Friday, March 04, 2011 - 12:28 pm: |
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quote:One thing I'm thinking is pounding an extractor on there again and then filling it with some JB weld so that it can't wobble when I torque on it.
That's clever, and might work. On the other hand, that could be tricky (but not impossible) to clean if you want to go the weld route later. |
Firemanjim
| | Posted on Friday, March 04, 2011 - 03:00 pm: |
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Drill it! |
Ezblast
| | Posted on Friday, March 04, 2011 - 04:36 pm: |
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Concur |
Usanigel
| | Posted on Friday, March 04, 2011 - 05:22 pm: |
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after seeing the picture, drill off the head. |
Jgarner99
| | Posted on Friday, March 04, 2011 - 11:07 pm: |
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I'm glad you're considering the drill-off-the-head route, but a word of caution is in order....
Once you drill your first hole, do NOT try an Easy Out in it. Because if the Easy Out breaks (and they often do), you'll never be able to get it out.
In the same vein, remember that you're drilling into a hardened bolt. It can be done (with carbide bits), but any mistake can lead to a broken bit. So, keep it cool (with cutting oil) and keep it straight (don't put any bending forces on the bit). If it just spins (making a metallic paste) instead of biting (making little curls of cut metal), then the bit is wrecked and you need to replace it with a new one.
I'm sure you can do it, if you're careful, because I've done it a bunch of times (when I worked in a foundry).
Good luck. |
Boogiman1981
| | Posted on Friday, March 04, 2011 - 11:54 pm: |
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Garner good tips going slow but not to slow is the name of the game. |
Rodrob
| | Posted on Saturday, March 05, 2011 - 12:04 am: |
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Thanks guys. I'm thinking of rigging the motor in my drill press. |
Usanigel
| | Posted on Saturday, March 05, 2011 - 12:14 am: |
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I think you will find it's just a rolled steel bolt. Maybe a good quality but it won't be hardened. Chewing the head of it would not happen if it were hardened, more likely to have snapped. |
Steeleagle
| | Posted on Saturday, March 05, 2011 - 01:03 am: |
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If you decide to drill it out, I suggest getting a set of left-hand drill bits. As you get into it and use larger sizes, it might "give up" and back out on you. If the bolt decides to move at all, a left-hand bit will at least be in the direction you want. Probably wishful thinking, but you might as well stack the deck as much as you can in your own favor. |
Duphuckincati
| | Posted on Saturday, March 05, 2011 - 01:57 am: |
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I just have to say how impressed I am once again with the sharing of knowledge on this forum. Well done men!
But don't you buy any Chinese drill bits!! You-know-what will hit the fan! |
Rodrob
| | Posted on Saturday, March 05, 2011 - 02:05 am: |
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Pleeeeeease don't go there. |
Dannybuell
| | Posted on Saturday, March 05, 2011 - 02:14 am: |
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Steeleagle +1 on reverse drill bits. |
Jgarner99
| | Posted on Saturday, March 05, 2011 - 02:23 am: |
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> I think you will find it's just a rolled steel bolt. Maybe a good quality but it won't be hardened.
Interesting point. However, from the photo, you can see that it's a metric grade 10.9 bolt. A quick search describes that as "medium carbon alloy steel, quenched and tempered" with a surface hardness of 30N59 Rockwell and a core hardness between C33 and C39 Rockwell.
Basically, that's equivalent to an SAE grade 8. So, not exactly "hardened," but not your everyday fastener, either.
You might be able to penetrate the surface with a regular HSS drill bit, but I'd still recommend carbide -- it's not worth the potential trouble just to save a few bucks.
Just my 2 cents.... |
Ezblast
| | Posted on Monday, March 07, 2011 - 12:53 am: |
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Concur and reverse bits at that.
EZ |
Rodrob
| | Posted on Monday, March 07, 2011 - 03:59 pm: |
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Success! The bolt is out and the head is off.
Thanks to all for the input.
Here is a pic of what I used. The bolt drilled out surprisingly easily. The good bolt is on the right.
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Ohsoslow
| | Posted on Tuesday, March 08, 2011 - 12:11 am: |
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nicely done, good to hear it went well for going so bad. |
Jgarner99
| | Posted on Tuesday, March 08, 2011 - 12:14 am: |
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Nice! |
Jgarner99
| | Posted on Tuesday, March 08, 2011 - 12:19 am: |
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Just one question: It looks like the bolt backed out fairly easy once the head was popped off (which is what I'd expect). Is that correct?
Once again, nice work. Pat yourself on the back. |
Rodrob
| | Posted on Tuesday, March 08, 2011 - 12:26 am: |
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I removed it with my fingers. |
Jgarner99
| | Posted on Tuesday, March 08, 2011 - 12:51 am: |
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Yeah, that's kinda what I thought....
All that torque translates into tension (or stretch) on the bolt, which means LOTS of friction at the thread interface. Once you relieve that tension, they usually back out pretty easy.
Neat, huh? |
Ohsoslow
| | Posted on Tuesday, March 08, 2011 - 02:45 am: |
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seating torque vs breaking torque. if you torque a bolt to 100 ft lbs it will take 150 ft lbs to break loose. not sure of the exact differences but you get the idea. |
Reepicheep
| | Posted on Tuesday, March 08, 2011 - 07:50 am: |
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Cool! Thanks for following up with what worked! |
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