Author |
Message |
Clarkjw
| Posted on Monday, January 24, 2011 - 09:16 am: |
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Hey! I'm trying to get the ZTL brake caliper off of the fork lowers. I'm on orders and don't have my service manual. How do I get it off? |
Spectrum
| Posted on Monday, January 24, 2011 - 09:43 am: |
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Bleeding - Place a plastic tube over the bleeder valve. Place the other end of the tube in suitable fluid catch container. Loosen the bleeder valve, Pump brake lever to evacuate the fluid. Disconnect the brake line by removing the banjo fastener at the caliper. Be careful not to loose the two washers on either side of the banjo fitting. Caliper removal - Remove the two bolts holding it to the fork. Slide the caliper down to clear the fork lower, then remove off of the rotor. |
Dano_12s
| Posted on Monday, January 24, 2011 - 09:48 am: |
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Don't forget to line up the 2 spokes w/the 2 grooves on inside of caliper. |
Spectrum
| Posted on Monday, January 24, 2011 - 09:52 am: |
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Dan, Yes thanks. Necessary in the final step "remove off of the rotor". |
Gsxrguy
| Posted on Monday, January 24, 2011 - 10:00 am: |
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there are grooves in the back of the caliper that match the spokes on the wheel |
Rogue_biker
| Posted on Monday, January 24, 2011 - 03:37 pm: |
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I thought you need to remove the front wheel to remove the front caliper? It can't go any other way. To remove the front wheen, you gotta jack up teh front wheel off the ground. Then you turn the wheel so the spokes line up with the relief cuts on the caliper. You remove the wheen by turning the handlebar left and pulling the wheel backwards and out. This should leave you just the caliper mounted to fork leg. |
Nillaice
| Posted on Monday, January 24, 2011 - 03:52 pm: |
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you guys are jerks. Clark, i can never seem to get the caliper off with out removing the front axle, tho i've read it's possible if you like up the spokes of teh wheel correctly here's how i do it: suspend the front of teh bike-straps or a jack under the muffler remove the front fender remove the caliper bolts loosen the pinch bolts on teh axle, and remove the axle. push teh front wheel back, towards teh motor, and slide teh calpier off the rotor if youre replacing the pads, go ahead and clean off the pistons (brake dust and crud), then push them back into the caliper so your new pads will fit with the rotor between them. if your new pads don't have heat shims (prefoated metal sheets), re-use the old ones. BTW teh manual is avaiable online |
Nillaice
| Posted on Monday, January 24, 2011 - 03:52 pm: |
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and teh = the |
Zacks
| Posted on Monday, January 24, 2011 - 05:28 pm: |
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Ice, And avaiable = available... |
Eece_ret
| Posted on Monday, January 24, 2011 - 07:36 pm: |
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It helps to rotate the fork lower after moving the wheel back to release the caliper from the rotor. In this way the caliper can be removed in a way that takes it away from the bike and not into your nice shiny rim This was the best advice from teh manual I could pass on |
Ratbuell
| Posted on Monday, January 24, 2011 - 09:29 pm: |
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(sigh) 1. Loosen master cylinder lid so fluid can bleed back up without pressure. MARK IT so you remember to tighten the lid before you ride!!! DAMHIK. 2. Raise front wheel off the ground so you can spin it freely. 3. Remove 2 bolts that hold caliper to fork 4. Rotate wheel so spokes line up with notches in caliper 5. Wedge/pivot caliper "crooked" so you are using the rotor to spread the pads and compress the pistons 6. The caliper should now be "notched" onto a pair of spokes. Leave it there and rotate the wheel, sliding the caliper out from behind the mounting tabs on the fork. 7. Once its clear...pull it out. Fender stays in place. Brake line stays in place. Front axle stays in place. No bleeding required (but again, remember to put that lid back on the master cylinder and pump up that brake before you move the bike out of the garage!!). That said...if you're just replacing pads? 1. Remove m/c lid and mark. 2. Remove caliper mount bolts and do the wedge-it-sideways trick to spread the pads as far as you can 3. remove the pad retainer bolts (smaller allen head screws) 4. slide out the pads, install new pads, reinstall retainers, remount caliper, tighten m/c lid. |
Nattyx1
| Posted on Monday, January 24, 2011 - 11:20 pm: |
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Rat: That's a lot of steps. This is way faster:
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Zac4mac
| Posted on Monday, January 24, 2011 - 11:28 pm: |
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C4 is REALLY more fun, but somebody'd call Homeland Security and we'd be seeing them on the 6 O'clock News |
Nattyx1
| Posted on Monday, January 24, 2011 - 11:40 pm: |
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Right, and I've been up and down every aisle in my local home depot and I can't find C4 anywhere. (maybe they keep it behind the counter?) |
Ratbuell
| Posted on Tuesday, January 25, 2011 - 12:15 am: |
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I think it's in the aisle with the fertilizer and diesel.... |
Dannybuell
| Posted on Tuesday, January 25, 2011 - 12:18 am: |
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Duz not! Duz too! |
Nattyx1
| Posted on Tuesday, January 25, 2011 - 12:28 am: |
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Danny... you been drinkin' ? |
Skntpig
| Posted on Wednesday, January 26, 2011 - 06:19 pm: |
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Don't forget the tape so you don't scratch your wheel getting the caliper out. |
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