| Author | Message | ||
     Rogue_biker |
I have only ridden my '08 1125R about 200 miles. I got it used two weeks ago from a good friend who owned it since new. My friend told me the bike’s rear brakes were completely replaced by the dealer at 12,500 miles (bike has 14k now). Parts replaced were rear rotor, master cylinder, and calipers because the original one that came with the bike locked up and it overheated and warped the rotor. So all parts were replaced under warranty. Since my friend hardly uses the rear brake, he hasn’t really noticed anything wrong with it. Well, in the 200 miles I’ve ridden the bike, I noticed the rear brake requires more effort than normal to get the bike stopped from 5 mph. I have this habit of always using both F & R brakes, but the last 5 mph prior to a stop I ease up on the fronts and use only the rear brake. I found this keeps the bike stable and makes braking to a stop much smoother. I really have to push down on the rear brake to get good stopping power. Is this normal for the 1125R? I remember reading a thread about it but now I’m not sure. My Firebolt does not have this issue. Brake fluid is present and is reading normal. | ||
| Xnoahx |
Rear brake sucks on these bikes. I have heard that with use they get better. I dont use mine so I couldnt tell you. | ||
| Boogiman1981 |
i used to use mine. then it blew up and was replaced via warranty i no longer use it... | ||
| Zac4mac |
Just "bed it in" by heating it up good. I found with the OEM exhaust, I had to drag the rear as I leave my neighborhood. As it drags, you'll feel the bite improve. Once you have it biting, do a couple of slow-to-almost-stops from 45-50 to 4-5mph. You should then be able to lock up the rear at any speed, be careful then so you don't hi-side in a turn if you trail-brake. Z | ||
| Usanigel |
Many different opinions on the rear brake. Mine is weak to the point of why have it! Some say the exhaust dumps on it to reduce noise from the pipes and this kills it. This winter I will be rebuilding it/cleaning to make sure it "works" might still not be any good! It should be balanced with the front, at the moment I tickle the front and stand on the rear to get the same action. Try cleaning it. Add some turn outs to the exhaust, this will keep it and the wheel cleaner. | ||
| Daniii |
Mt rear brake is almost worthless except to hold it on a hill. But Froggy mentioned "breaking it in" or some such. I'll be trying the previously posted procedure as soon as I get my rear tire replaced. | ||
| Rogue_biker |
Thanks all. When I first got the bike my friend warned me the rear brakes were very weak. Since he rarely used his rear brakes, he never complained. The first time I used them on the 1125R I was surprised to find out there was no stopping power at all! I was rolling down my driveway and I had to stomp on the pedal to get it to stop! I did notice now that I'm using the rear brakes, the stopping power and feel have improved. I still need to step on it harder than on my other bikes but not like the first time. I'm not normally a trail braker so no worries there. I do use both brakes 95% of the time since I find this keeps brake dive to a minimum, which keeps the bike settled before turns, in stop and go traffic, and plus it makes me look very smooth as I come to a complete stop. I hate looking like a drunk monkey as I come to a stop! Thanks for the tips. I will continue to use it and make sure it stays clean at every washing. | ||
| Tippster |
What's with the Drunk Monkey hate?  | ||
| Poppawheelie |
i adjusted the pedal freeplay and that cut down some of the travel time for the plunger to engage in the master cylinder, it helped mine but i agree the exhaust is the real culprit to the rear tire brake fade, good luck!  | ||
| Jdugger |
FYI -- Trail braking is done exclusively with the front brake. | ||
| Tippster |
Huh, I was always taught to use both, then roll off the front before the rear to smooth out the decrease in braking power. | ||
| 01lightning |
+1 Jdugger. I used to use my rear brake on the street. I dont use it at the track unless I'm in the paddock or of track.Wait, thats a lie, I do use them sometimes while going over 'wheelie hill' to keep the front down at NJMP. But anyway, maybe try bleeding them. My rears arent great but I can lock the wheel with ease if I want. | ||
| Jdugger |
Tipp, I think the misunderstanding comes from the mistake many riders (and instructors) make from the word "trail", meaning "trailing wheel". When, actually, trail braking is the action of "trailing off" the brake as one approaches the apex. Doing it with the rear brake wouldn't make sense for a couple of reasons. 1. The rear brake can tend to stand the bike up. 2. The rear wheel's traction is compromised already as the bike is being slowed and tipped in. Unless trying to deliberately "back it in", touching the rear brake is likely to cause the rear to step out. ... and probably a host of other reasons. Racers always carry the front brake until the apex of the corner unless there's something just peculiar about a particular corner that makes trail braking unideal. Personally, I find it best/easiest/smoothest to make the transition from brakes to power using the front brake only. | ||
| Hootowl |
I thought it was because brake dive changes the angle the forks sits at effectively decreasing trail, increasing turn in. | ||
| Tippster |
Makes sense, Jim. I don't do track days any more (last one was in the days of 'Counter-steering is King!') so I'll bow to your experience. I gotta admit that true trail braking always freaked me out a bit - I've had the front wash out on me a bit several times (mainly due to gravel/sand on the road) so I basically stick to the old-school "Brake, then turn, then roll on the throttle at the apex." | ||
| Jdugger |
Counter-steering is still king -- trail braking isn't for steering the bike, though it has impacts on how the bike steers. I think we could have a gentlemen's disagreement about trail braking's safety. I would argue having the front committed offers the rider the options of giving a little back or asking for a little more, both with less danger than not having any braking at all and moving to braking while leaned over. The problem with trail braking is it requires practice, training and finesse. Used poorly, it's a fantastic tool for tucking the front. As for racing there's really no other option. If you don't trail brake into a corner, you are going to get passed, and probably stuffed. | ||
| Petebueller |
I find the ZTL front brake stands the bike up in a corner. More on my Firebolt than the 1125R but still quite definite. I like the rear brake. I use it a lot just by itself. I wore the first rear rotor on the Firebolt to underspec and had to replace it at 45,000 km. The 1125 rear is weaker than the Firebolt rear, but still I've adjusted the brake pedal down a bit on both bikes to make the rear more progressive and a bit weaker. I find it gives me more control in a corner and no risk of highsiding the bike on the rear brake. | ||
| Ratbuell |
The more you use a rear brake, the better it will work. Bed it in. PROPERLY. It ain't the arrow...it's the indian. If you'd like to read a real text on the procedure I'm sure there's one out there somewhere, but my method (and I use it any time I put on new pads, front OR rear, car OR bike) is to get the bike up to mid-third gear speeds. HAMMER the brake, put it on the verge of lockup right before it skids. Repeat five or six times in quick succession. You WILL notice the difference. I guarantee it. The rear brakes work just fine. Any more rear brake, used in conjunction with the boat-anchor ZTL system and the resulting forward weight transfer, would result in repeated, ugly, j-slide skidmarks or worse. When you're *at* braking threshold on both front and rear, this balance - mega-front and weaker-rear - is what keeps that rear end from locking and sliding and passing the front end on the outside of the turn. I do drag the rear for a bit on my CR right after startup. Once that startup condensation is gone, though, I'm good for the rest of the ride. It does not seem to reappear during rides once the engine, and exhaust, heat up. And I have yet to notice brake fade on ANY of my Buells...other than the Ulysses, but I think that was the combination of the Lyndall Gold pads and the psycho-paced (for over 2 hours) ride I was on at the time where the GPS logged 103 on the back roads of PA. Riding 2-up with full bags. Can't imagine why they faded  | ||
| Rogue_biker |
Pete, I found this to be the case with my XB12R Firebolt when it was new and it wore the Dunlop D208's. I later replaced them with the next generation of Dunlop sport tire, the Qualifier 2's, which only reduced the tendency to stand up under braking. Now, I've been using the Pirelli Diablo Rossos, and for the last two sets, the Bridgstone BT016. With either of these two tires, I can brake deep into a corner and even steer under braking and the Firebolt does not stand up. However, hard braking on either of these tires requires a bit more pressure on the bars to turn but at least they are nowhere near the kind of resistance to turning under braking the original Dunlop D208's created! | ||
| Petebueller |
I'm running Dunlop Roadsmarts on both bikes Rogue so the Dunlop tyres may be doing it. | ||
| Mountainstorm |
I thought I could improve rear brake feel with some EBC HH pads. And for a short while it did. But then it started making the worst squealing sound. So I don;t know if I can whole-heartedly recommend EBC pads. Just use it hard when you do and it will improve somewhat. | ||
| Dannybuell |
Counter-steering is still king -- .... +1. Counter-steering is the positive pressure to the control that is on the inside of the turn. The balancing act in braking and turning is to incrementally relax positive pressure for tiny moment(s) allowing the steering to turn in while the bike continues to slow down. The fun stuff continues with high torque motors and ECMs that have high decel in throttle off conditions. When you relax the positive pressure and let the throttle off you really turn in! "I think we could have a gentlemen's disagreement about trail braking's safety. I would argue having the front committed offers the rider the options of giving a little back or asking for a little more, both with less danger than not having any braking at all and moving to braking while leaned over. " +1. Rogue_biker: +1 on 208's, never again. | ||
| Jdugger |
On my race bike, between the slipper clutch and the incredibly generous IAC, the bike almost free-wheels into corners, and the rear is so much more planted and steps out so much less often. I love it. | ||
| Dannybuell |
I am no racer, I have enjoyed drop throttle oversteer (DTO) for years. Getting the IAC setting right is just the latest variation. I usually don't use DTO but it is just another tool for asking for a little more. On a race track you know the turns and how to approach them. Road riding by its very nature is unknown and in my opinion demands a different 'tool box', one of those tools is DTO. | ||
| 01lightning |
I havent learned to trail brake yet. Jdugger, i dont get what you mean- are you saying there is no engine braking on your race bike? | ||
| Fast1075 |
Modern rubber has made it much easier and safer to trailbrake without stuffing the front...in the old days...(shudder)... | ||
| Rogue_biker |
The 1125R has very little engine braking thanks to its slipper clutch. Most sportbikes have slipper clutches so they minimize engine braking. I have to admit I prefer having that extra engine braking but the slipper clutch makes riding the twisties fast much smoother. | ||
| Dannybuell |
Rogue_biker - The slipper clutch comes in at very high levels of engine decel. You can have all kinds of decel with out even coming close to the slipper clutch zone. | ||
| Jdugger |
> are you saying there is no engine braking on your race bike? Relatively there's none. While in gear and coming off high revs, it will "idle" about 2500-3000. At lower RPMs, the bike will push itself. This is a combination of the very generous IAC mapping and pulling the clutch switch. There's also a proper mechanical slipper clutch, a Suter, to replace that worthless POS that comes with the bike mislabeled a slipper. So, off-throllte high RPMs don't drag the bike down either. When I downshift, I just ham-fist it and then feed in throttle. When engine revs catch up to the gear/speed, the bike smoothly reengages. | ||
| Nattyx1 |
i am gonna start a new thread on trailbraking so as not to hijack this one. |
