| Author | Message | ||
     Jeremyontour |
I went out for a short ride (20 minutes there, off for an hour and then 20 minutes back) and then tried to start the bike after a 10 minute break and it wouldn't turn over. The display read 12.2 volts on the battery. I usually keep an eye on the voltage while I'm riding, but I didn't look this time until it wouldn't start. I'm curious if this is the beginning of my stator failing. The bike is a 2009 with about 800 miles on it. I picked it up new in November and have been riding it almost daily since then. I know this topic has been posted about in detail (and I'll do some more research now) but how can I tell if this is a stator issue or just a battery that sat at the dealership for a year before I bought the bike? Thanks | ||
| Ratbuell |
It's a bike you started, rode for 20 minutes, turned off, re-started, and rode for another 20 minutes. 20 minutes does not "refill" the charge you took out of the battery by starting the bike. Half hour rule. At least. You're just gonna have to trust me (and my '06 Uly with its OEM battery still in it and going strong). Big twins take a LOT of juice to start. Short hops don't recharge the battery. | ||
| Jeremyontour |
Yeah, I usually try for longer rides but this (and my Cyclone) are my primary vehicles. The battery is on a trickle charger; hopefully tomorrow it'll start up. | ||
| Ratbuell |
C'mon now...you have a TUBER, and you asked about a 20 minute discharge problem???  I bet you're fine in the AM. Don't tease the bike. RIDE IT LONGER  | ||
| Dannybuell |
toggle over to the voltage display if you want to watch a roller coaster. I have a 96s1 w/ 96K miles and an 09 CR w/ 7600 miles. These bikes are so much fun once you get used to them. the 1125 engine needs at least 3500 rpm to be happy. The 1125 electrics are not as robust as the air cooled HD stuff. As you already know HD electrics at best are fair. | ||
| Jeremyontour |
Sadly, the battery tender didn't save me...the bike won't turn over. The cluster power's up, but when I hit the starter it is dead. My tuber never does this to me and it is my grocery-getter  | ||
| Jumpinjewels |
Join the family. Sorry to hear this. Mine went out last weekend with just over 5K miles on it. I think we are going to send it off to be rewired. But we need to check a few more things on it ie: the voltage regulator. | ||
| Ratsmc |
Wait, wait, wait. The display was reading 12 volts and it wouldn't turn over? | ||
| Jeremyontour |
Yes, when I went to restart the bike the coolant was still warm enough that I could toggle through the menu and the read-out was showing 12.2 volts, but the starter wasn't doing anything. Even today with the battery tender showing a charged battery the starter isn't doing a thing. I'm tempted to try a jump but I don't think it's the battery. | ||
| Dannybuell |
With the bike in neutral the instrument cluster comes up green 'N' light, headlight on, kill switch set (opposite toggle position than tubers) you get nothing and have 12.2 volts? Fuses OK? | ||
| Daniii |
12 Volts should fire right up. I think something else went south. | ||
| Ratsmc |
Danii is right, something else is wrong, Not the stator. | ||
| Ratbuell |
Battery. Put a voltmeter on the battery and read stationary volts. Keep the meter attached and toggle the starter, see where your volts go. If they dive...your battery is dead, plain and simple. If you jump it...jump it from a NON-RUNNING car. A running car has too much amperage for the bike's system. | ||
| Sparky |
If it's not getting even a click when you press the starter, I'd try swapping the start relay with one of the others. If it does click and the starter barely turns, I'd put a voltmeter across the battery terminals and see what happens while trying to start. Anything lower than approx 8 VDC could indicate a worn out battery. | ||
| Jeremyontour |
Thanks for the help! The bike is on its way to Atlanta so I'll dig in a little deeper when I meet up with it. Happy New Year!  |
