| Author | Message | ||
     Anonymous |
Any tips or tricks to removing the stock exhaust? Any do-it yourself videos out there? I am not exactly mechanically inclined so, any help would be greatly appreciated. | ||
| Nillaice |
why anonymous? | ||
| Froggy |
Too embarrassed to admit you can't get it off?  It is a bit of a pain, read over the procedure in the service manual, the tough part will be getting the bolts off the oil cooler | ||
| Dreso1021 |
dont feel bad. once i get back ill be doing my first exhaust install too.   (Message edited by dreso1021 on November 16, 2010) | ||
| Dman |
Yea, what part are you having trouble with? It's pretty easy overall, like a 15 min job. Is it the oil bolts like Froggilicious says? Can't imagine anything else could slow ya up. I did mine pretty handily with a small box wrench on the nuts. | ||
| Father_of_an_era |
Hey, I need help with that as well. I just got my KEDA in and am trying to get this stubborn stocker off. How do I get those bolts off of the cooler? I think I may need to find a wrench that will fit in the slots but do they make such a wrench or will a jack hammer work???? Also, my 3 year old daughter is trying to help me and she has already lost two of the washers. lol  | ||
| Dman |
LoL, I think a jack hammer would do it, but i used a small sized open end wrench. I believe it was a 12mm, coming in from the front, turned side ways to slip into the area, place it against the nut, turn the bolt until it aligns with the wrench & tada, now just crank the bolt off. Oh & it's just the nut on left-hand side - shifter side - of the bike. On the other side the nut is actually embedded in the exhaust. Your replacement exhasut should have a nut that goes on that bolt for that side of the oil cooler, at least my Barkers did. Hope that helps. | ||
| Petethekiller |
you can do it with standard tools..it just takes patients and a few cuss words. Other than that it's super easy. Got mine off in 15 minutes..going back on is another story | ||
| Boogiman1981 |
all except the left oil cooler nut are captive. Band clamps on the headers hex everywhere else. There is a small z shaped bracket on the lef too. The non captive nut is i think 14mm slide closed end of wrench in the gap then turn 90deg so it'll grab the nut. Reinstall takes a couple of tries but for me even with my big mits using fingers to position the nut works best. | ||
| Ridenusa4l |
"with my big mits using fingers to position the nut works best" hmmm well whatever helps you on those lonely nights  LOL Jake | ||
| Boogiman1981 |
lmao | ||
| D_adams |
http://www.badweatherbikers.com/cgibin/discus/show .cgi?tpc=290431&post=1725564#POST1725564 The left rear bolt is accessed through the belt pulley. There are holes in it just for this purpose. Also, it makes it easier if you loosen the right side foot peg bracket (both bolts) as it relaxes tension on the muffler mount points. Don't forget to retighten them once you have the stock pipe off though. There are a total of 7 bolts to loosen. 2 are the foot peg bracket, 1 is the oil cooler bracket (totally remove this piece for exhaust removal, reinstall once you have it off) in the front, the other 4 are the muffler bolts. Obviously there's 2 clamps as well. It should take you no more than 10 minutes to remove the pipe. Undo everything on the front first, including the clamps, then do the bolt through the pulley and last, the bolt for the right side, followed by the foot peg bracket. As you loosen the bracket, the exhaust will start to shift down. Put something under it (towel, foam, whatever) to prevent damage, then wiggle it some, it will come off quite easily. | ||
| Zac4mac |
Make sure to use Loctite on the bolt going thru the idler pulley. I didn't, the bolt backed out and locked up the pulley. Drive belt slid on a static wheel for ~10 miles, wore a patch off the pulley's anodizing and .130" off the back of the belt. That belt is coiled up under my seat as a spare. Zack | ||
| Bettybuell |
if you loosen the brackets holding the footpegs it won't pinch the back and it will fall out of the back. Then don't tighten them until the new one is in place. There are two allen bolts on each side. | ||
| Father_of_an_era |
Thenks everyone for all the info! I had to hit the local hardware store for the correct wrench that would fit under the oil cooler. My fat wrenches along with my fat fingers just couldn't do the job. lol Finally got the sucker out and gave the stocker a few taps with the mallet and viola, it fell right off! Now, trying to figure out what all that hardware is for. lol Here we go again!  | ||
| Trafford |
A tip for everyone....I take mine on and off really quickly. An open-end spanner will hold the concealed nut behind the oil cooler and to put it back I made (bent) a wire coat-hanger 'tool' to hold the concealed nut in place while I turned the bolt. Quick and easy. (Message edited by trafford on November 18, 2010) | ||
| Milt |
I love improvised tools. How about a picture, Trafford? | ||
| Zac4mac |
Before I got my Drummer, I bent a 14mm box-end in an "L" after heating to cherry red with a torch. A little tab of electrical tape in the box to hold the nut and you're cooking with gas. Another trick is this wrench I modified for the axle tool. This is the only way I could fit a 7/8" wrench in Loretta's tool-kit.   Zack | ||
| Father_of_an_era |
"why anonymous?" Because I am chicken! lol |
