| Author |
Message |
    
Curve_carver
| | Posted on Wednesday, November 24, 2010 - 06:54 pm: | 
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Fresno, I don't understand why you even post??
Not everyone stator has failed. Some people have hit 10k without replacing one. And who's to say the techs are going to check the torque spec? You have proved to me to be completely ignorant and you post nothing more than derogatory statements. Get lost.
It's important to have the correct torque spec. Your crank drives the rotor. If it's loose it could trash your crankshaft. Just a heads up.
Have a happy thanksgiving to all. |
Xb1200rick
| | Posted on Wednesday, November 24, 2010 - 08:17 pm: |
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Fresno, I don't understand why you even post??
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Rpm4x4
| | Posted on Thursday, November 25, 2010 - 12:20 am: |
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You know some of you guys make it really hard to want to post anything here. The product I mentioned is nothing like 1970s STP, its not like warm peanut butter or 60wt. Its more like normal oil that you just cant wipe off your hands. I swear I get lit up about just about anything I post. According to most of you I have the wrong tires, wrong oil, wrong suspension settings, my wheel bearings are bad, and my stator is already fried. Oh yea, my stator nut is falling off too. BTW, I dont think that adding 1/3 quart of lucas did anything to my stator nut.  I swear some of you can find a connection from a zit on your forehead to a stator problem. The noise Im talking about it the timing chain noise. If you have the 2010 timing chain tensioner the lucas will most likely not do much, but in that case I would guess that your engine is pretty quiet. I am fully aware that the noise is harmless but I like it better when its not there. All I wanted to do is let others know what worked for me. Ive ran the lucas for close to 3000 miles. My 1125r is just a couple miles short of 10k. As much as the 1125 forum looks like a doom and gloom forum, I have not had a single problem. The 1125R is the most amazing bike I have owned to date. Both of my Buells for that matter are far more reliable bikes than the CBR I owned.
Rant off |
Chameleon
| | Posted on Thursday, November 25, 2010 - 12:46 am: |
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Winter has that affect on motorcyclists. Don't take it personal.
But yeah, it is pretty ridiculous.
Good rant. |
Redbuelljunkie
| | Posted on Thursday, November 25, 2010 - 01:04 am: |
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While we're ranting...
Mountainstorm- there are two things in your post that are true:
An oil's viscosity is measured at operating temperature- 100C (212F).
You do want good oil in your crankcase.
Every other "fact" you provide is wrong, and it really does no one any favors by making statements that are patently false.
For example:
You want the highest viscosity oil approved by your manufacturer for the lowest ambient temperature you will be operating in- not the lowest viscosity.
Without additives, multi-grade oils would not exist. Additive packages are what make mineral oil as good as it is, and make synthetics even better.
What keeps metal parts from touching is an oil's film strength, and a major contributing factor to film strength is viscosity- higher viscosity=more film strength.
Oil gets thinner as it heats, and gets thicker as it cools- that's why additives are so important. Polymers are added to oils to keep them from thinning too much when hot, and getting too thick when cold.
Low temperatures do not permanently affect an oil's viscosity- an oil can have its temperature raised and lowered without having any lasting effect on the oil's properties. What cold can do, however, is effect the contaminates in the oil which can result in degradation- but cold alone won't "damage" oil.
You really need to spend more time researching before posting spurious information on forums. |
Fresnobuell
| | Posted on Thursday, November 25, 2010 - 05:40 am: |
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Fresno, I don't understand why you even post??
Really? If you are so stupid or insecure to take my comment as a personal jab at you, then maybe you should get lost. If anything, its a commentary on the stator design of the 09 and 10.
And who's to say the techs are going to check the torque spec?
Any halfway decent tech would check the torque spec when replacing a new stator. To insinuate anything else is just plain ignorant. |
Curve_carver
| | Posted on Thursday, November 25, 2010 - 08:17 am: |
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Rpm 4x4
Oil is Always a touchy topic. Just make sure your oil or additive is specified to work with wet clutches.
The stator nut idea is no joke. My bike and a few others I know had loose stator rotors. My bike was so loud at idle then clears up after 4k. Now it sounds like a sewing machine at idle. It's a common problem. It was such a problem that ebr told me to torque it way over spec and loctite it.
There will be some that are ignorant to believe a Harley tech will check the rotor nut while in service. I for one am not one of those fairies. I've been jacked around too much by the Harley elves. |
Gemini
| | Posted on Thursday, November 25, 2010 - 09:18 am: |
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http://www.blackstone-labs.com/oil-viscosity.php
thin is good. thin is better than thick as long as it is not too thin. i personally will run the thinnest oil that i can, that follows manufactor's specs based on my enviorment conditions. if my enviorment conditions for the duration of my current oil change keeps me completely in the range of 2 oil weight recomendations, i will choose the lighter of the two.
try not to look at weight of oil as a thinkness measurement. look at it as a resitance to flow. too heavy of an oil will not flow as well into distant areas in relation to the oil pump as lighter oils. too heavy and the top end suffers. yes, higher temps lowers effective viscosity but pressure increases viscosity. that is why the rotax runs pressurized rod bearings instead of roller bearings.
older motor that runs 10w30 that is making some rod bearing noise. you change the oil to 20w50. the noise is a little less. it's not quieter because the oil is physically thicker, it is just taking longer to get squeezed out from in between the rod bearing and the crankshaft. because it takes longer to get out, more oil gets packed into that area thus keeping the rod bearing from making as much contact to the crankshaft. |
Redbuelljunkie
| | Posted on Thursday, November 25, 2010 - 05:43 pm: |
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Gemini- if your number one goal is efficiency, then a thinner oil is good- but you must sacrifice film strength, thermal stability and protection from viscosity loss, shear, and degradation to get it. In a motorcycle (wet clutch) application, most value protection much more than efficiency- motorcycles are pretty darn efficient to start with.
Of course, you can use an oil that's too thick for a specific application, and this can present problems in reaching vital areas inside the engine (and a host of other things you'll want to avoid). However, when you only use grades approved by your manufacturer, you will be using weights that your engine was designed to use. If an oil is too heavy for proper lubrication inside your engine- it won't be on the manufacturer's list of approved grades. You will never go wrong by using your manufacturer's approved class, type, and grade- period.
Now, when you choose the highest viscosity approved by your manufacturer for the lowest ambient temperature you will be riding in, you will have an oil that lubricates the engine exactly as required (for both temperature and pressure), plus it will have better thermal stability, better film strength, and be more resistant to viscosity loss/shear/degradation than a lower viscosity oil. Yes, you may fractionally increase pumping losses, but a small amount of efficiency is a small price to pay for all the protection you will gain from using a heavier weight oil. |
Gemini
| | Posted on Thursday, November 25, 2010 - 06:12 pm: |
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won't argue any of that |
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