| Author | Message | ||
     Mountainstorm |
My rotor is shot. It's getting dangerous. Front end shudders like a jack hammer. Before I spring for a new one I thought I'd ask if anyone had gotten their rotor replaced under warranty. I have a 5 year ESP. Thanks. | ||
| D_adams |
I think it should be covered, but I'll try to remember to look tonight when I get home from work to make sure. | ||
| Mountainstorm |
I'll give the dealer a call Monday and see what they say. I took the wheel off and took the rotor off and closely inspected it and can detect nothing amiss, but it's definitely a danger. Thanks Dean | ||
| Jdugger |
post a clear, close up picture of it. | ||
| Zac4mac |
9 "warped" rotors out of 10 just need to be USED. * Race kit parts don't work right at less than race usage. ** I ride my 1125R like a grandpa compared to Jdugger, but I fully agree with his take on the brakes. I use my rears a lot along with engine braking but I make it a point to keep front and rear scrubbed. My brakes, front and rear are some of the best I've used. Zack * unsubstantiated statistics from a dark warm place ** reality | ||
| Bassettkyle |
I am going to have to try and bleed my back break. If you say it is the best something is up with mine as I have never used a worse rear break. It doesn't seem to have much play at all, I was able to lock it up. | ||
| Fresnobuell |
I bet it has deposits on it and if cleaned properly it will be fine. I had what I thought was a warped rotor and it was just said deposits. | ||
| D_adams |
The rotor IS covered by the ESP warranty. Everything brake related with the exception of the pads is covered. This includes the caliper, lines, bushings, master cylinder and rotor, as well as any related mounting hardware. I can post a pic of the ESP coverage if needed, but it's on the list for stuff that is covered. | ||
| 07xb12ss |
Where can I get this list? | ||
| D_adams |
Any dealer should have the basic list on a brochure, but it's also in the paperwork when you purchase the ESP. | ||
| Kozy |
It actually depends how warped it is and how much the rotor is worn. I'm not sure what the specs are for it(you could look in service manual, if you have one) but they use the specs and measurements to determine if it's covered or not. | ||
| Mountainstorm |
According to my dealer it is a wear item so it's not even worth the hassle trying to get them to see different. It's not deposits. I thought it might be but after surfacing the rotor for several hours using a perfectly flat oversized sanding block and 180 grit gold 3M paper till it was back to shiney new metal it was exactly the same shudder. IMO it is warped or out of round. I have already had an out of round rotor on my X-1. The idea that 1125r brakes only work right if you use the bike for track days is one I'm not buying. I know it would be cool to think the 1125r is a race use only vehicle (vroom vroom) but it's a street machine that happens to be track capable. Front braking has been dodgy for 5K miles (even after new pads) but now it's about unridable at 20K on the odometer. I just need a rotor. Thanks all. | ||
| Dannybuell |
Mountainstorm - 'I know it would be cool to think the 1125r is a race use only vehicle (vroom vroom) but it's a street machine that happens to be track capable.' That 'race vehicle' bit seems to be the stock answer to almost every malady raised. B.S. My s1 had the same problems. I went in thinking that this would be an issue with my CR no problem yet. With stock IAC decel in the ebr ecm I don't use the brakes as much. | ||
| D_adams |
It might be a "wear item", but it's covered by the ESP. Get one of these fliers, hand it to the service manager and tell them to fix the dang thing. You paid for it, use it. $50 for anything wrong, doesn't matter if the motor's blown up or whatever, they fix it. Brake pads aren't covered, pick up an aftermarket set and either install them right before you take it in or hand them the parts so they can't bitch about the old, worn out pads on the bike.      | ||
| Mountainstorm |
Thanks Dean. I talked with the SM and he apologized for being mistaken and told me to bring in the wheel and they would change out the rotor. I had the parts guys order one so in about a week I'll give you all an update. Roanoke HD Buell has been very good to me and I have high hopes everything will do smoothly. | ||
| Fresnobuell |
ISn't there a device that measures runout on a rotor. Either it's within spec or not. This would end the speculation. | ||
| Jdugger |
Yea, a Dial Test Indicator... I use one to shim my rotors so they are as true as possible. | ||
| Mountainstorm |
It would need to be checked not just for thickness, but for flatness and for being out of round. I have had one rotor replaced years back for being out of round. It was perfectly flat and within spec in every other regard...just egged. This one has a deep groove in the center, but seems to have more wear on one area than the opposing area judging from the "track" cut into it by the pad. All I know is that it went from being smooth and having great feedback to shuddering the bike so hard the front forks shake and make strange sounds (like loose change shaking around in a metal jar). Rather than beat the bike to death and possibly lose traction under braking I think a replacement is the way to go. It's the kind of thing that could make a difference between avoiding an accident and being an accident. | ||
| Rhun |
Front rotor is a floating rotor. Push in on the rotor by each screw and make sure it goes in a little like 1/16th inch. If not try and free up if you can't replace the screw assembly. If your rotor doesn t float it is going to shudder, etc. |
