| Author | Message | ||
     D_adams |
So, I got a set of the 35 watt lights. No instructions included, but hey, I can figure this stuff out, I'm a mechanic. I hook it all up the way it "logically" should be done. Plugged in the main connector, turn on key. Nothing except the marker lights.  Got to actually looking at the wires to see if I did something wrong, read the "manual" online (pdf file) and noticed that the wires might be backwards in the plugs. Hmmmmm. Took some pics of the mess, had to trim the connector some, now it works.    Installed, left the stock high beam (on right side) in place since I rarely use it anyway. HID light is on the left.  Holy COW these things are BRIGHT!!!  | ||
| D_adams |
BTW, yes the high beam IS on in that pic. I got the 35 watt low beams, high is whatever stock is (55 watt?). | ||
| Boogiman1981 |
on the R they are both 35W bulbs the only difference is the relfector | ||
| Skntpig |
You had the reverse polarity issue. That plug can be taken apart using very small pick tools, and the wires switched instead of your mod. | ||
| Americanmadexb |
I had the polarity issue's too. I just flipped the connector around and zip tied them. I must have done a •••••• job because my left one was flickering one and off the other day. About to head to garage and fix it here soon! | ||
| Pmjolly |
My kit did not come with plugs on the ends of the 12 volt connections feeding the ballasts. The wires do have crimped on spades to insert into the receptacle on the motorcycle's headlight harness, but I now feel like I got ripped off. The connections will not be water resistant if I just jam the wires in there, but at least I could fix the polarity issue easier. Haha. Did they send 90 degree or straight lamps? | ||
| Rt_performance |
mine only had the spades into the old headlight harness as well just plugged and taped them | ||
| D_adams |
I got the 90 degree bulbs, I asked for them. I had to call, there wasn't a place to specify what I wanted. The polarity was off, trimming did the trick and it's sealed fairly well. I might just go ahead and get the high beams along with the marker lights. It was just downright beautiful riding home tonight. Everything around me in at least a 180 degree radius was fairly well lit. Even the guy I work with was lit up when he was riding just a little bit back from even with me. 5k bulbs are definitely screaming white. I don't recommend going beyond that though. It will start turning too much of a bluish hue. | ||
| Ponti1 |
Dean, what are the "90 degree bulbs", and are they needed? If not needed, are they preferred for some reason? I have been lazy about buying a set, but am about to pull the trigger and am not sure exactly what I should be ordering. I mean, I know I am looking for a dual H8 35W kit, but what else should I be asking for? Here is the link I was at yesterday: http://www.ddmtuning.com/Products/DDM-35W-55W-Dual -Motorcycle-HID-Kit (Message edited by ponti1 on September 21, 2010) | ||
| D_adams |
http://www.sporttwin.com/index.php?/topic/19311-in stalling-hids-on-an-1125r/ Puzzled did a nice writeup on this, his look to be straight plugs. Mine had a 90 degree elbow on them, so the plug was off to the side instead of straight out. The stock bulbs are 90's so that's why I went that route. | ||
| Avc8130 |
You didn't have to cut the plug. You could have easily pushed the pins out and swapped them side to side to accomplish the polarity correction without cutting the plug. ac | ||
| Ccryder |
Andrew you are fine with that kit for an H8. For $35 it's hard to beat. You just need to decide on the color temperture. I like 4,500 or 5,000. I have a Xenon rider kit on my 1125r. The DDm kits are easier since they just plug into the stock headlight bulb connector. I just got done with a 5k kit on my F-150 dual xenon and it's GREAT!! | ||
| Ponti1 |
Thanks for the info, Dean and Neil! I am up in the air between 5k and 6k for temperature. I have read in various places that both are "pure white", so not sure what difference might be when they are side by side. Hmmm...Maybe I will get 6k for low beam and 5k for high beam just to compare. (Message edited by ponti1 on September 21, 2010) | ||
| Ccryder |
6k has a green tinge while the 5k has a blue tinge. I have the 6k on my r and have thought about going to the 5k like my F-150. | ||
| Skntpig |
5K has a hint of blue, very white. I think pure bright white would be 4,500 based on the 5K. I wouldn't want more blue than 5K like the cheapo blue ricer lights. I actually expected the 5K to be more white. | ||
| Zac4mac |
I have 6800 K lo-beams and they are slightly blue. I see it best on reflected signs. They are a little over 2 years old now and seem to be dimming. What's the life-span of the bulbs? Do they die abruptly usually or fade out? Z | ||
| Rodrob |
Don't go higher than 5K and consider the 45k at 55W IMHO. While the lights measure the same output, your eyes are not linear in response to wavelength. If you move most of the light output to the violet end of the spectrum >5K, you will see less detail in objects that reflect light in the yellow part of the spectrum. Brown and green for example. OK for cagers who do mostly city driving lit by yellow sodium street lights. But think about how much brown and green there is in most of the riding you do. Especially on canyon or back country twisties. Your eyes are most sensitive in the green spectrum. If you remove all the yellow from the light, you diminish your vision in the most sensitive area. | ||
| Ccryder |
Life-span is stated at 3,000+ hours. You can get some deposition on the inside of the glass capsule but usually it's more dust and crap on the reflector. They usually just die. My ST1300 is on the same set of HID's since 2004 and 89,000 s'miles. My 1125rt has 40,000 s'miles on it's HID's and my biggest problem is keeping the headlights cleaned of BUGS. Since it's harvest time they are BAAAD! Later Neil | ||
| Jules |
I wouldn't fancy 55W in the R housing, only because it's plastic and "rated" for 35W, it could melt the lense or discolour it.. I know some people are running 55W bulbs but i also know I am happy with the 35s | ||
| Ccryder |
Robert a pretty good explaination. While the HID's produce the same output for color spectrum b/t 3000 and 10,000k, the useable light, meaning light that your eyes can see drops off quickly past 5,000k. Below is a simple table of the approximate decrease in light output at given intervals. This is merely an approximation, as some systems may wear out more quickly than others. 0 hours = 3200 lumens (100%) 200 hours = 2880 lumens (90%) 1000 hours = 2560 lumens (80%) 1500 hours = 2400 lumens (75%) 2000 hours = 2240 lumens (70%) So even after 4 or 5 years, a typical HID system will still be putting out double the light of a halogen bulb. At 3,200k your light output is 3,200lm, by the time you reach 10,000k your initial light output has dropped to 2,000lm. Too much info, time4Lunch!! | ||
| Chameleon |
Jules: HID lamps run colder (in radiant heat terms) than incandescent. The 5K bulb "temp" does not relate to the actual radiant heat produced by the bulb. I've had the DDMtuning 55W 6K kit in my 1125R for the last 18,000 miles with no heat issues whatsoever. One unrelated issue is that the bulbs seem to have physically turned downward within the housing. Same thing happened to the stock bulbs and I got my housings replaced under warranty to resolve it. I talked to my favorite 3d party service tech and he said that it's a common issue on certain bikes due to a rubber piece that holds the bulb in place which eventually hardens and recedes from the bulb itself (possibly due to heat?). The tech suggested replacing the rubber bit or just stuffing more in there along with the original to make it extra tight. I might just try to adjust the lights upward a bit to compensate. I don't like the jiggling bulbs, but at least it makes me a bit more obvious as I'm riding along... And makes people more apt to GET OUT OF MY F'ING WAY when I'm behind them. Muhahaha! | ||
| Jules |
One unrelated issue is that the bulbs seem to have physically turned downward within the housing. Same thing happened to the stock bulbs and I got my housings replaced under warranty to resolve it. I was going to ask what the symptoms were but I think it was the "jiggling bulb" you refer to later in the post. For some reason when viewed straight on there seems to be a different "pattern" to the light output from my R, I noticed it after replacing the OEM bulbs with the 4500K ones, i don't think it has anything to do with the rating, but it does look odd.. When looking at the light reflecting on the trunk of a car in front it looks like a bulb is out until you move your head to the side... it's always the same side so and different shaped rear ends so it's not just refraction LOL Light output at night is fantasic and the pattern in front seems fine so i'm not particularly bothered but I do find it odd.. | ||
| Jules |
I've had the DDMtuning 55W 6K kit in my 1125R for the last 18,000 miles with no heat issues whatsoever That's good to know.. Did you try a 35W kit before or dive right in with the 55s, i wonder if there's much of a difference? | ||
| Chameleon |
No. I'm an American... If 35W is good, 55W is better.  | ||
| Ponti1 |
Well, I ended up going with the 35W, 6000K bulbs based on that thread @ SportTwin forum. I planned to get the LED marker lights, and the pics on that thread had the the 6000K looking to match perfectly with those markers.  |
