| Author | Message | ||
     Gofastalot99 |
Who is running 10W-40 and what brand? Does it run any better than when using 20W-50? | ||
| Zane_t |
10w40 oil is fine for running in the winter, but by the time you really need the lighter oil it's too cold to ride anyway. When in doubt, use what's recommended in the owners manual. | ||
| Gofastalot99 |
A lot of 20W-50 oils shear down to a 40 pretty quickly. Of course, some 10W-40s shear down to a 30 also. I'd be using Amsoil or Redline and they should be a little more shear-stable. If HD360 or SYN3 is acceptable to use, and they will both likely shear down early in the OCI, then why not just start with a 10W-40 that won't shear down as much? The Redline and Amsoil 10W-40 actually have a similar HTHS than some 20W-50s. | ||
| Duff24 |
I've ran Castrol ACT-EVO 4T 10W-40 for probably about 30k miles with no problems and seems to run great. I ride mine pretty hard for the most part. It's cheaper than 20W-50 as well. | ||
| Velocity |
I have all ways wondered why they did not spec 10w-40. All the water cooled bikes run it. Historically 20w-50 was for the air cooled bikes?? Scott | ||
| Froggy |
The conspiracy theorists will say it is because HD dosen't have a 10-40 syn.
What temperature would that be? My CR has been tested to 22°F without issue. My Blast has gone colder. Both running Amsoil 20w-50, I will pickup some 10w-40 this time to make starting easier. | ||
| Blk09r |
Quote... ---The conspiracy theorists will say it is because HD dosen't have a 10-40 syn.--- Makes sense to me. | ||
| Tpoppa |
The conspiracy theorists will say it is because HD dosen't have a 10-40 syn. I always assumed that was the reason. Regardless, I use 15w50. | ||
| Gofastalot99 |
99816-1040.00QT IN-STORE PURCHASE ONLY Contact dealer for pricing and availability. Lube SAE 10W40 - Quart MSRP US $6.49. Its been around for a long time but it is conventional oil made for colder weather. It would probably shear to a 30-weight real quick in a shared-sump m/c. | ||
| Tpoppa |
The Can Am Spyder and Rotax powered Aprilias call for 10w40. Either way I'm not buying HD oil. | ||
| Velocity |
I'm sure you could pick up some on the power end, because it would spin up quicker. Note it would be minimal at best, but it all adds up. Scott | ||
| Mrred7 |
I live in the deep south and I would never run 10-40. It's still 95 outside. I find there is no reason to put 10-40 in when 20-50 starts up and runs great. I feel it would only be a negative byproduct if you live here. Besides the 1125 runs hot anyways... | ||
| Poppawheelie |
i agree with Mrred7, i live in the south and run 20-50 in everything including the sewing machine, just kidding who sews anymore? | ||
| Nukeblue |
i sewed my boys boy scout patches on...on a machine! | ||
| Nukeblue |
why not run 10w-50? | ||
| Gofastalot99 |
10W-50 is hard to find, expensive, and will likely shear due to the VIIs used. Since I changed to the Erik Buell Racing ECM mine doesn't run quite as hot anymore. Plus, most of my trips are short and the oil doesn't even get to operating temp anyway. I'm curious if the oil gets much past 100C/212F even during a long trip. For racing, the oil will surely get hot and I think a good 20W-50 is probably the way to go but on the street I'm not so sure the oil would ever get close to 230F. If the HTHS is close to or equal to some 20W-50s and the oil has little or no VIIs, then there will be little downside to a 10W-40, especially on a short-trip bike. Even so, I'd still like to hear from more people that have run it year around. | ||
| Gofastalot99 |
Regarding ambient temperature - I'd agree if the discussion was about air-cooled engines. I run a 20W-50 in both my air cooled bikes because sometimes I get caught in traffic and I know that oil is getting real hot, especially when its over 90. But this is water-cooled and oil-cooled and the oil temp is at least somewhat regulated. I just can't see the oil temp getting out of control unless during racing. |
