| Author | Message | ||
     Pmjolly |
I was reading some posts where people thought they could realize a reduction in current by using HID lighting. It might help with the stator issues. A 35 watt HID lighting system will draw the same current as a 35 watt halogen or incandescent, or anything else. As long as the voltage is constant, watts are watts. The HID lighting puts out more light for the same given wattage. You can realize a reduction in current by using a lower wattage HID system while still producing more light. I ordered the 35 watt HID kits from DDM Tuning for my 1125R. I ordered the 35 watt kits because the 55 watt kits would draw more current than the stock 35 watt lighting. I do not expect any reduction in current, but do expect better lighting with no added current. I got the H7 lamps at the advice of others here. For the life of me, I cannot figure out how they go in. In fact, I feel confident saying they WON'T fit. I went back on line with DDM Tuning, and ordered the H8 lamps, as this is what my bike has stock. Am I doing something wrong? I will say I am very mechanically inclined, and yes, I removed the protective plastic housing on the lamp. I have the headlight housing on my work bench. I have easy access to everything. I am wondering just a little if they sent me the correct lamps. If I ever get these working, I'll put my ammeter in the circuit and let y'all know how much current they draw. I'll also check the stock bulbs for comparison. | ||
| Torquaholic |
i got a pair of H8 HID's from DDM earlier this year. The first set they sent was in no way a pair of H8 bulbs. I had to log in to their website, fill out a complaint, then call customer support and verify everything, etc. Eventually, mailed the incorrect bulbs back to them. They refunded shipping and mailed the correct bulbs (90 degree H8) to me. This all took two weeks. Now all is installed and they fit right in like they should. If your bulbs don't fit like they should, they might not be H8's. The H8 bulbs are available in 90 degree as well as straight through design, but should look like this:   (Message edited by torquaholic on September 12, 2010) | ||
| Westmoorenerd |
Correct me if I'm wrong, but H7's are for the 1125CR, and H8's are for the 1125R... I think you got pointed to the wrong bulbs. | ||
| Nillaice |
+1 H7->CR H8->R | ||
| D_adams |
I just looked on the DDM site and see the H8 listed, but it doesn't say it's a 90 degree connector. Is it for sure a 90 or not? I'd like to get some and it's even cheaper now at $35 a set. | ||
| Pmjolly |
Yes, I'm convinced I got the wrong bulbs. Mine do not look like that. Those would go right in. It's not even about the 90 degree shape. Mine don't have the three ears sticking off like those pictured. I'm sure the H8's I ordered will be fine. Thanks! Pat Jolly | ||
| Freight_dog |
I am not convinced the HID's even draw the same power, let alone less. My stator failed recently, the system was struggling to maintain 12.1 V regardless of rpm with the HID's installed. I even disconnected one of my HID headlights to get that. In the interest of warrantee protection, I removed my HID's before taking the bike in. During the ride to the dealer the system maintained 12.3 V on the highway with both lights plugged in. Not a significant difference and there could be other factors but this seems to suggest that HID's use more power. BTW, I don't have many miles on the new stator, but it has performed flawlessly so far. The lowest volts I have seen is 13.7. It is quite a bit cooler out these days than it was so the fans surely aren't working as hard, and I haven't been stuck in stop and go traffic yet, but the dealer seemed to have faith in this solution. (Message edited by Freight_dog on September 12, 2010) | ||
| Boogiman1981 |
well they are likely really close once running however keep in mind they do draw a lot off of the cuff to get the arc started. | ||
| Torquaholic |
Those pictures I posted above are directly from the DDM bulb guide, found on their website under the help/support section. IIRC, from talking to the DDM sales rep, they have H8's in both 90 degree and a straight-through (180 degree?) style. Some came with factory style connectors that clicked into place, while some just came with wires and terminal spade connections to fit into the factory sockets. When I filled out my complaint and mailed the wrong bulbs back to them, I specifically stated I needed 90 degree H8 bulbs and attached a picture of the factory bulbs along with my letter requesting the correct bulbs be shipped to me along with a refund of the shipping cost it took to send them the incorrect bulbs. They did just what I asked. When I received the correct bulbs, the only thing that didn't work perfectly was the connector pieces; specifically, it was a polarity issue. The install instructions on their website state which color wire is for positive and which is for negative. When snapping the connections into the factory harness, nothing would turn on. I discovered the wires were opposite of the factory polarity in my DDM connector pieces, so I took a sharp knife and removed the keyway tab on the DDM connector to let me flip the connector around. Once that clicked in place, all was well and the system lit up beautifully. Just a heads-up for those of you going this route. DDM HID Bulb guide: https://www.ddmtuning.com/support/index.php?_m=downloads&_a=viewdownload&downloaditemid=4&nav=0 DDM HID install guide: 1,https://www.ddmtuning.com/support/index.php?_m=downloads&_a=viewdownload&downloaditemid=14&nav=0,1 (Message edited by torquaholic on September 13, 2010) |
