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Buell Forum » 1125R Superbike Board » Archives 001 » Archive through August 27, 2010 » Rear Brake Pad R&R « Previous Next »

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Ccryder
Posted on Monday, August 16, 2010 - 10:29 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Just some observations from changing my rear pads this weekend.
1) A rear stand is nice to line up the big holes in the rotor to remove the caliper bolts.
2) Both belt guards need to be removed.
3) A shorty 6mm Allen wrench or a shortened "L" Allen wrench makes removal of the Allen bolt holding the brake line clamp easier. (Some have found that removing this clamp is not necessary but it makes the job easier IMHO)
4) Removal of the pads from the pistons is easily accomplished with a sharp tap from a soft hammer driving the pad towards the top of the caliper. I tried pushing and prying is not recommended.
5) The pads come out of the side of the caliper easier than out the bottom.
6) Cleaning of caliper with brake cleaner is always a good thing to do. A nylon or brass brush helps remove stubborn buildup.
7) The retainer spring from the old pads needs to be installed in the new pads. Needle nose pliers work great.
8) Watch the torque on the caliper bolts for safety and for reducing the chance for stripping.

Rear Caliper Bolts 31.8-35.3 Nm (23.5-26 Lbs)
Rear Axle preliminary 31.2-36.6 Nm (23-27 Lbs)
Back off rear axle 720 degrees (2 turns)
Rear Axle final 65.1-70.5 Nm (48-52 Lbs)
Rear Pinch bolt 54-61 Nm (40-45 Lbs)

Front Caliper Bolts 48-50 Nm (35-37 Lbs)
Front pad pin hangers 14.7-19.6 Nm (11-15 Lbs)
Front axle 53-56 Nm (39-41 Lbs)
Front pinch bolts 27-30 Nm (20-22 Lbs)

Time2Work
Neil S.
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Milleniumx1
Posted on Monday, August 16, 2010 - 12:25 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I just swapped mine last weekend. Surprised just how easy it was. I didn't have a rear stand, so a bit of extra rolling back & forth to get the rotor holes lined up as needed.

I didn't remove the belt guards (not sure why you would actually) and I left the brake line clamp intact. I'm a bit OCD when it comes to my blue wheels, so I was super careful!

Mike
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Ccryder
Posted on Monday, August 16, 2010 - 01:10 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I removed the belt guards so I had a straight shot at the caliper bolts. Also better to get accurate torque on the bolts. The clamp just gives you a little more room to work.

I'll probably flush the brake fluid with a Miti-vac in a week or so since I'm still running the original fill.

Time2ride
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Cravacor
Posted on Wednesday, August 18, 2010 - 03:27 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Nice post, thanks CC!
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