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Buell Forum » 1125R Superbike Board » Archives 001 » Archive through August 08, 2010 » Bike dies while ridding « Previous Next »

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Ohsoslow
Posted on Tuesday, August 03, 2010 - 12:26 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

ok i will try to keep this as short as possible.

the past few weeks of ridding have yielded me a trip to the dealer and some minor headaches. about 3 weeks ago i was on the way home from the beach, checking out the scenery : ) it is a 55mph road i had been cruising at that speed for about 25 miles the car in front of me had to turn left onto a road, i pull the clutch in to drop a couple of gears and the bike dies. i pull off the road, the cel is on for low sys fuel pressure, bike wot restart cycled the key several times, i had to sit for about 10 mins before she fired right back and ran great the reset of the way home.
air temp that day about 90 degrees, coolant temp was at 183, batt voltage about 13.7v.

the next day the bike does the same thing air temp a couple of degrees cooler but this time cruising about 45 mph.

the next day i take the bike to the dealer for the harness update, to get my clutch leak parts on order and to have them look at the stalling issue, they tell me they cant find any problems with the stalling so i take the 45min drive to the dealer to pick the bike up, i go to ride it before i load it into my truck and now the cel is on solid with a right side fan error, bring the bike back to service and drive back home, they found the ecm bad, replaced the ecm.

fast forward to last Friday all has been good since the dealer and the new ecm, im out ridding with my Buddie we are sitting at a light waiting to turn left, im watching the batt voltage drop to 12.3 and coolant temp go up to 203, light turns green i go to take off and the bike dies, wont start for about 20 mins get it running continue on my way it dies again while ridding about a mile away wont start for some time. get it back running and haul ass home, with the bike dying several time on the way home, another time to note this whole time the batt voltage never rose about 12.8v. coolant temp held about 180 while moving. got home let it sit over night went out started it in the morning, running fine batt voltage 14.1 and has run fine ever since. any thoughts/ comments on what the issue could be.

also thing to note the dealer kept my noid resister plug....and the tech has no clue what im talking about.....
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Dktechguy112
Posted on Tuesday, August 03, 2010 - 01:15 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

they probably screwed up the harness install. The resistor plugs right into the harness, it plugs into the connector that the noid would plug into.
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Ohsoslow
Posted on Tuesday, August 03, 2010 - 01:48 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I know where it goes, the tech said hemdidnt remove any parts off the bike at all...... It's only $6 I'm not freaking out about it, but I'm starting to get concerned about the stalling issue.
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Fresnobuell
Posted on Tuesday, August 03, 2010 - 02:46 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

So where exactly does the $6 resistor plug into after the harness install?
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Jules
Posted on Tuesday, August 03, 2010 - 06:28 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Fresno - the same place the Noid would have done if you still had one, there are other threads on this (with pictures).

As this was happening before the harness install (stalling) it's unlikely that this is the root cause.

When it stalls and you have to wait have you tried the "flood clearance" procedure because it sounds like it's flooded?
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Ohsoslow
Posted on Tuesday, August 03, 2010 - 10:13 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

yes this was happening before the harness install. no i have not tried the flood clearance procedure, i am not aware of it.
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Jackgraves
Posted on Tuesday, August 03, 2010 - 10:26 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

What's up dudes
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Dannybuell
Posted on Tuesday, August 03, 2010 - 12:16 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Check this out might help.

http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/290 431/584388.html?1280851470
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Jules
Posted on Wednesday, August 04, 2010 - 05:17 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Ohsoslow:

You hold the throttle wide open then turn the key on and the spark plugs will fire for 4 secs to clear a flood. It's possible this can work with lightly fouled plugs.

You may have to do this a few times before the system clears.

Hope this is helpful.

Copied from a previous post by Anonymous
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Ohsoslow
Posted on Wednesday, August 04, 2010 - 09:47 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Jules, thank you i will keep that in mind. that brings me to my next question, why the hell is it flooding out ridding down the road and sitting at stop lights?
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Jules
Posted on Wednesday, August 04, 2010 - 10:37 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

LOL - it might not be, that's just a suggestion for something to try when it happens next to see if it is flooding.

There were some reported faults with thte ignition switches a while back, the harness is a bit tight under there and some bikes have had a wire either break off or make intermittant contact - that'd also give you similar symptoms.. Probably worth a look too..
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Jules
Posted on Wednesday, August 04, 2010 - 10:51 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Have a quick look at some of these threads - there may be some nuggets of info in there too:

http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/290 431/558545.html

http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/290 431/552069.html
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Chevycummins
Posted on Wednesday, August 04, 2010 - 12:14 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Ohsoslow, I might have some time to help you with it this weekend, just give me a call if interested.
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Ohsoslow
Posted on Wednesday, August 04, 2010 - 11:59 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

thanks chevy will do if i can find time, i have a lot to do and the bike isn't on the list. i was doing some playing around earlier today, holy cow the IC is way behind on displaying voltage that is actually at the battery, it was taking several seconds for it to display what the volt meter was showing. im kind of leaning towards a loose electrical connection because when it dies its like the key or kill switch was shut off.
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Chevycummins
Posted on Thursday, August 05, 2010 - 07:06 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

The good thing is there really isn't that many connections to check on the bike. I would start with the main ones, make sure to check the ground wire at the frame by the fuel pump. My ZX14 has battery voltage displayed in the cluster and that one is really slow to display actual voltage also, not just a Buell thing. Probably the same reason Ford's oil pressure gauge never moves, they don't want to alarm the consumer with all the little details.
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Ohsoslow
Posted on Thursday, August 05, 2010 - 11:58 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

pshh what are you talking about, fords oil pressure always stays the same idle and wide open..................
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Zac4mac
Posted on Saturday, August 07, 2010 - 07:19 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

If you're riding an R, wiggle test the wires behind the keyswitch.
I've had to resolder 2 separate times, last time I also removed some material from the top of the fairing stay.
Switch wiring was binding on it causing the failures, no problems since.

Z
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Brumbear
Posted on Saturday, August 07, 2010 - 08:34 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

just be sure to check the dumb stuff first
IE tank breather. If it stalls out again pop off the filler cap see if it sucks air or if it will start back up when you put it back on
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Chris_motion
Posted on Saturday, August 07, 2010 - 11:37 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

i have an '09 R with just over 400mi and it's done this a handful of times - as i'm coming to a stop, pull in the clutch and it just dies. fires right back up when i thumb the starter and doesn't show any signs of trouble otherwise. i'll check the wires + let you know what i find. cheers, chris
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