Author |
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Milt
| Posted on Monday, August 02, 2010 - 11:07 pm: |
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<rant> My bike was in the shop for almost 4 weeks. The stealership ordered a new stator, which they received after about 3 weeks. Only after taking my bike apart, they realized that they'd needed some gaskets. OK, that's another week. Hey, everybody messes up sometimes. I'll cut them some slack here. So I ride home. The next day, I see some oil on the garage floor. OK, I say to myself, just some shop slop. Not to worry. I clean the bottom carefully with a rag. Tonight, I check again. No more oil. That's good. Hey, I've spilled some oil, too. They're a little sloppy, but otherwise, no big deal. But wait - the exhaust looks kind of funny. The header pipes and muffler just don't seem to be together right. Why in G-d's name would you need to remove the exhaust in order to change the stator? I don't think that's in my service manual. I should make them fix the exhaust. Of course, they'd probably rotate the engine or remove the cams or re-energize the Heisenberg Compensator or something and they'd never get it back together. </rant> |
Dktechguy112
| Posted on Monday, August 02, 2010 - 11:26 pm: |
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i feel for you, i have dealt with bad dealers before. And they may have removed the exhaust so they could jack the bike up, the exhaust is round, and the bike likes to roll to the side if jacked up with the exhaust on. They have some high torque specs on the stator stuff, so they need to have it well secured before they swap the stator. |
Froggy
| Posted on Monday, August 02, 2010 - 11:32 pm: |
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Whats odd, it says in the manual during the stator install steps:
quote:IF removed, install the muffler. See 4.7 EXHAUST SYSTEM
The thing is, it doesn't mention it on the removal steps. It also mentions you need to remove the crank position sensor to remove the stator cover, and to get to the CKP you need to rotate the motor, which would require the muffler to be removed. Or thats my guess. |
Fireboltxb9r
| Posted on Monday, August 02, 2010 - 11:37 pm: |
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80 miles of riding after my stator transplant I came home and looked at my left boot covered in oil. After two 130 mile round trips (1 to drop off bike and 1 to pick up) to/fro dealer, they tell me the gasket was not positioned right upon initial reassembly. They told me there is a special alignment tool needed for the gasket during reassembly. About 275 miles since gasket correction and all is good thus far. |
Milt
| Posted on Tuesday, August 03, 2010 - 08:40 am: |
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My manual told me about the alignment dowels and the crank case locking tool, too. My advice to H-D: RTFM ! |
Dannybuell
| Posted on Tuesday, August 03, 2010 - 10:29 am: |
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Milt - Sad but true. |
1_mike
| Posted on Tuesday, August 03, 2010 - 10:45 am: |
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1. No...need to remove the exhaust...period. 2. No....high bolt torque application in dealing with the stator...period. The 2 most difficult parts about the whole job was removing the sensor and pulling the cover past the magnetic force of the rotor to the stator. So that should tell you just how hard a job it is to get apart..! Just how dumb does one have to be to NOT....order a cover gasket "before" taking the cover off? If you order a stator..."just in case" order the 4 (?) freaking dollar gasket...! Overall...it's a pretty simple job to R&R a stator. Well..I take that back, when I have to actually replace my stator, pulling the harness past the engine/frame is gonna be a real pain. I may have to rotate the engine. The harness got stuck after only about 2" of trying to pull it out...so I stopped there. Mike |
Milt
| Posted on Tuesday, August 03, 2010 - 03:49 pm: |
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I really should have scrounged up a trailer and brought it to a Buell friendly dealership. I think we can look forward to doing lots of stator work in the next couple of years, so we too, will need the tools that our dealerships should have and don't. See FireboltXB9r's post above. Anyone know how much "gasket alignment dowels", "crankshaft locking tool" and "oil line remover" cost? |
1_mike
| Posted on Tuesday, August 03, 2010 - 05:22 pm: |
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1. The dowels are stuck in the crankcase. They are sorta "free". You paid for them when you bought the bike. 2. Crankshaft locking tool. NOT required to remove the stator. The rotor..yes..not the stator! To remove the stator from the cover, you need a 10mm socket (as I recall)...medium long extension to remove three screws and a screw driver to remove two screws. 3. You can buy them cheap in auto parts stores. Less than 10 bucks for a set. Fingernails work well too. Mike |
D_adams
| Posted on Tuesday, August 03, 2010 - 05:25 pm: |
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^^ $5000 at a minimum. |
Milt
| Posted on Tuesday, August 03, 2010 - 06:10 pm: |
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That's what I get for reading manuals after work. Both tools were for operations far exceeding removing the stator cover. I got wound up blindly following the "see section...". |
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