Author |
Message |
Peter_nikols
| Posted on Monday, August 02, 2010 - 05:33 pm: |
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Hi all, Which color Lock-tite would be the correct one for Stator Cover bolts? Anyone know off-hand what the torque spec should be for the Stator cover bolts? Thanks Peter |
Jdugger
| Posted on Monday, August 02, 2010 - 05:46 pm: |
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None? For racing I put a dab of high temp silicon on the outside of each one. The spec is really low, like 10 or 11 Nm. |
1_mike
| Posted on Monday, August 02, 2010 - 05:58 pm: |
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Just had mine off a coupla weeks ago. I used oil to reassemble mine. I never run a dry fastener into an aluminum thread. I've seen what it can do over time. Mike |
Ccryder
| Posted on Monday, August 02, 2010 - 07:47 pm: |
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Lock-tite not required. I think the SM spec is 90 in-lb (not much). |
Boogiman1981
| Posted on Monday, August 02, 2010 - 09:48 pm: |
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mike try milk of magnesia next time even better than oil esp in high heat such engine cases and still better than most anything in extreme heat such as exhaust systems. |
Stirz007
| Posted on Tuesday, August 03, 2010 - 12:39 am: |
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Boogiman - this sounds old-school and I'm bummed I've never heard this before. Milk of Magnesia, seriously? Not to hijack, but I'd like to hear more. - there's another thread discussing a special rotor cover gasket alignment tool (i.e., hands?). Any experience with that? http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/290 431/584573.html?1280806668 |
1_mike
| Posted on Tuesday, August 03, 2010 - 10:57 am: |
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Gasket alignment tool...? The case already has two dowels in it for gasket/cover alignment. Just use one of the many sticky gasket bonding adjents to hold it to the case, put the gasket in place, then put the cover in place. About that simple and that fast. I use Hylomar when I can find it. It's orign is from the Rolls Royce Aircraft industry. Great stuff. Mike P.s. - don't forget to oil the two pockets in the cover where the shafts go. One a bearing one just the cover material. (Message edited by 1_mike on August 03, 2010) (Message edited by 1_mike on August 03, 2010) |
Fast1075
| Posted on Tuesday, August 03, 2010 - 11:16 am: |
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Speaking of old school...one of the best gasket dressings is called Gasgacinch...paint the gasket with it and let it dry....the gasket will not stick in place...use it to seal crankcase halves...make sure the surfaces are clean and oil free...put the parts together wet...it will not leak...used it in place of cylinder to crankcase gaskets many times....After annealing copper head gaskets for the drag bike, paint the gasket and let it dry before installing...no leaks...works where silicone is too slippery to stay in place under pressure....I keep a couple of half pints around all the time... (Message edited by fast1075 on August 03, 2010) |
Peter_nikols
| Posted on Wednesday, August 04, 2010 - 12:53 pm: |
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I took a look at a Shop Manual yesterday. It suggests Blue Lock-tite HD243. I found some HD242 Blue at home. Is that good enough? Torque spec is 98 in-lb in case anyone was curious. Thanks Peter |
Jackgraves
| Posted on Wednesday, August 04, 2010 - 01:05 pm: |
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What's up dudes |
Dcmortalcoil
| Posted on Wednesday, August 04, 2010 - 01:07 pm: |
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I've done a gasket change before and I didn't see anywhere in the manual to use any Lock-tite. You will NEED the tool due to the strong magnetism - will destroy the gasket if you have to slide the cover around to align the bolt holes. I made mine with 6 long threaded bolts, with chopped head. Just hand thread the bolts around evenly. Put the gasket - the bolts will align the gasket. Then slide the cover using the bolts as a guide. |
Peter_nikols
| Posted on Wednesday, August 04, 2010 - 02:55 pm: |
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Look in the Torque Specs section. Stator cover bolts. It clearly says Blue lock-tite 243... |
Jackgraves
| Posted on Wednesday, August 04, 2010 - 03:22 pm: |
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What's up dudes |
Boogiman1981
| Posted on Friday, August 06, 2010 - 12:23 am: |
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yeah the milk of magnesia is old school words from my father an okd navy jet mech and now ASE master. really good stuff when worried about dissimilar welds or galling is a concern. the magnesium is basically all that gets left after the liquid evaps and it make a great barrier in those conditions. i've used it and the copper based high temp anti seize and prefer the magnesia |
Stirz007
| Posted on Friday, August 06, 2010 - 10:33 am: |
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Boogie - Cool. Now I have another tool in the toolbox. My main memories of MOM were the houses out in the country that would have literally hundreds of empty MOM bottles lined up like ornaments in the yard. I used to think "damn, that's quite the MOM habit...." Thanks again. |
Boogiman1981
| Posted on Friday, August 06, 2010 - 11:50 am: |
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no prob glad i could share. and that's really funny about the habit musta been the water... |