| Author | Message | ||
     Xoptimizedrsx |
Some say on the dyno is best others say does it yourself. Both ways work. If you use the dyno, you get a dyno tune one that can be great on the dyno but not perfect to the street and your riding style. Do it yourself if you do not understand it make it a mess. Alternatively, make it better. A simple solution used by many even on the dyno is a data logger. They run the engine record the run. From there they run that file through a Map generating program, which uses the data recorded from the ecu.(push a button push a button) this will make the map to the data in which it was recorded. What this does is match to your bike. Now would you use a data log from a different bike to make your tuning data. That is the same as making a dyno tune on a different bike then putting that in yours. It can be better than stock but in most cases it a guess at that point no more no less. A guess with fingers crossed. If you have a bad running bike and try to just fix it by a map it may not be the issue so it will not work. With data, logging your bike you can see the values in the ECU. This allows you to spot an issue as a burnt valve or other combustion issues. Rather like the old inspection days when they stuck the probe into the exhaust. You would not want them to stick the probe in a different exhaust to say what yours is doing. This is the same as tuning a bike on a dyno then uploading that map to your bike. Different engine tolerance and wear makes a difference. The best solution is to data log your ECM. Run that data into a known program which will adjust the maps. This is what 90% of the dyno shops do to start there data work then tweak by hand the wot and just off wot areas. Race shops make the maps on the dyno yep. Then they record the run to verify it is the same and tweak to the actual rider on the bike on the track. There is some new data logging stuff on the market that records both front and rear O2 as well as acceleration and decelerations and etc. This new tool will also allow dual wideband to be put onto older ecms as well as wideband onto the new ecms. We all know how much more that will help. This data made from this new system makes a perfect map to whatever bike setup you have. No one can argue that a data logged ECM and adjusted to that bike is bad. It is the best way to do it. Some argue saying they don’t have the time to do it but they have the time to ride? If you have riding time you have adjusting time. Matching a tune to a setup a like from different bikes is ok to do but not near as accurate. Cannot be and never will be. Second, different fuels from different places burn different. It even burn different at different altitudes on alike fuels. Its physics and chemical properties that are fixed in the fuels on how they burn within the combustion chambers. We cannot change these laws of science. What fuel was used to make the map makes a difference. Fuels in Europe are different from fuels we have here, just as fuels here are different from china and ect. If you are incapable of doing it yourself, use a place that can adjust the ECM for you. On the other hand, buy a readymade map where you get adjustments to help match it to your bike from a starter map. My definition of a starter map: It is a mapping made on a particular setup for an alike bike. A fuel and timing map matched to a system in a like setups. This will get you close and is a place to start when adjusting fuel to your bike. Note: That in some cases it is not best. Always test the starter map to the stock map. For those with carbs.. I can do a setup on the 2 to 4 carbs, balance it out and set the fuel. However, you will notice one thing on this also. You may get the same needle, same clip location or washers and same jets. However, the idle screw and others are slightly different turns from full in to be correct on a like bikes. Why is this? Its cause different bikes run different to fuel volume, load and engines wear. My settings would only be a place to start even when done on the dyno. It goes for a EFI map it is a starting place. It may be real close on yours or worse than factory. It is like shooting fish in a barrel. Sure you are going to hit some but it is easier to read how to and reach in and grab one. Been there tried that does not work always. Is a copycat dyno tune really worth being sold many times over for Hundreds of dollars when it is not even perfect to the bike it has placed. If it takes three hours to make a custom map at 100 a hour, why sell that map 50 plus times for 300.00? That is 15,000.00 bucks for three hours work nice work on only in it for the money. Wait these are the die-hard Buell people out to help one another... Overall, why pay hard-earned funds for a map that is a guess for your bike. We have given out the free tools, even helped many learn free how to do this themselves. If you ride, you have time to make the logs. If you do not want to mess with it buy a cookie cutter map. | ||
| Howworkclutch |
i've read some docs on this stuff. i really want to get into it. but i need to pick up a cable and find the software. maybe in a few weeks. |
