| Author | Message | ||
     Zacks |
Made up a set and after installing them get this. Better than all the schmut on the rotor and wheel, but was wondering what anyone else was seeing.  | ||
| Mickeyq |
Those look sharp! Did you just cut them to get the angle? | ||
| D_adams |
Is that steam all over the swingarm? Better than on the rotor/wheel though. (Message edited by d_adams on May 16, 2010) | ||
| Terp_bueller |
I had a friend, who owns a muffler shop, make a custom set with more of a turn-out. The turn-out is even with the swingarm and shoots the the hot exhaust away from the wheel, brake and swing arm. An 1,800 mile weekend ride down to The Dragon resulted in very little soot on the wheel and brake. I'll post photos if anyone is interested. | ||
| Jules |
It's hard to tell but they look more slash-cut than turnout. My tips had a 45 degree turn in them that was enough for all the crud to clear the swingarm, wheel and brake. | ||
| Mountainstorm |
My Deflector is doing the job.  Still covers the bottom of the swingarm in soot but a thousand miles later the wheel and rear brake are soot free. | ||
| Ratbuell |
Harry - pics would be cool. My black CR doesn't get a whole lot of soot (at least not visible soot)...but it's always nice to see options should the need arise  | ||
| Terp_bueller |
Rat, I'll post a few pics, tonight. | ||
| Bueller4ever |
Zacks, where did you get the pipe? | ||
| Sportster_mann |
Might be better if the outlets were pointing downwards, towards the road. | ||
| Zacks |
Yes, it's steam from the initial engine startup and I agree better than all over the brake rotor. Exactly what I was hoping for, but now I'm wondering if if it's going to make the swingarm a mess instead. The do exit pretty close to the swingarm edge but apparently at startup idle, there's enough moisture and not enough exhaust velocity so it fouls the swingarm. I could have made them turn out longer I guess, but wanted to get them out of one piece of tubing. Maybe should have ordered up a 180 instead of a 90. Got the tubing from http://www.mandrel-bends.com/catalog/ It's 18ga 1.75" 90 degree pipe in stainless. I cut the bend almost in line with the inside radius to get the opening you see. They were then a little too long on the inlet side, so they also got trimmed. If you had access to a metal cutting chop saw or band saw it would have been easier than my method. I put a metal cutting 7 1/4 blade in the table saw and used my collection of jigs and clamps (safety after all - don't want a chunk of pipe flying around the shop)and raised the blade through the pipe to cut it. Also made sure to clean up the sawdust first so I didn't start a fire. It's a 15 degree cut on the inbound side to match up the welds on the muffler which has been ceramic coated and a 15 degree cut off the bend out of the original 90. Here's the cutoff to get a better idea.  Not sure if I'd go with stainless again over aluminum. Due to tolerances, it's a really tight fit. I had to use a tailpipe expander to stretch it just a little. Something that would be easier with aluminum I think. Put in a couple of set screws, but there's not a lot of thread area to work with on 18 ga. Maybe some hi-temp RTV to hold them on instead? But, took it down some rough roads, over train tracks that need some help and a blast up to a buck 20 and they're still attached so... | ||
| Mountainstorm |
Thanks for the link. For what it is I think heavy gauge aluminum would work well and offer a little more threading. | ||
| Boogiman1981 |
that is a loooot of weight on that rear wheel | ||
| Zacks |
I noticed all the weight myself for the 1st time last night - will have to have a talk with the dealer... | ||
| Zacks |
Mountain, in retrospect, the heavier gauge would give more threading (I used 1/4-20's. But you run into a clearance issue. 18 ga is .065 wall thickness meaning a 1.75" tube has an ID of 1.62". I measured the exhaust with a mic and got 1.595 and 1.592. 30 thou isn't a lot of clearance and on a stamped part, there's not a lot of precision on the runout. Main reason I elected to go with the 18 ga rather than the 16 available. I looked for metric equivalent to say 1.875, but couldn't find anything. Thought the 2" would be a little too loose. | ||
| Terp_bueller |
Rat...and others, ...a better mousetrap? Who knows. This was my attempt at the exhaust divert. I plan to use a high heat grade epoxy filler between the exhaust weld and the exhaust tips, sand smooth and repaint. My friend, who also does brakes, wanted to keep the hot exhaust away from the rotor and brake line. (...and no comments on the Chicken Strips.)    | ||
| Mountainstorm |
Holy crap a pair of tips that actually line up  Buell must have let that one slip through  (see how cattywumpuus mine are from the factory...like Marty Feldman did the welding). Thanks Zack. I'm a wood butcher and unfamiliar with how tubing is sold. From what you posted I take it that they don't sell it by Inner Diameter...only outer and you need to calculate the inner by subtracting wall thickness? Seems like a PITA. But a little stretching would make it work...aluminum is pretty maleable. Thanks again! (Message edited by MountainStorm on May 18, 2010) | ||
| Zacks |
Yep tubing and pipe is referenced by the OD. Gauge determines the wall thickness, then it's math for the ID. Then there's schedules like SCH40 etc... Yeah, why can't it be easy like the dimensions of a 2x4?  | ||
| Dipstick |
Zacks, (1) That ain't much of a chicken strip dude, that's about as much as you should push it on the street....the track is the only sane place left to extract that last little bit of tire left and be careful....you are close to the limit. (2) I love your "mouse trap" approach with the exhaust turn-outs, please post details! | ||
| Terp_bueller |
Dip, You should ask Mountain about his strips...I ran across him (figuratively) while on a business trip in VA...thought I was going to wreck the company Taurus chasing him down. One day I'll post the video of my ride at Deals Gap...evidence of how the tire got that way. I'll try to get more details on the material used. Similar to Zacks and Mountain, a set screw secures the tips. We had some minor clearance issues (fixed with a grinder) and expanded the material to fit over the existing tips. (The expander only worked up to 2" in length...hence the gap between the turnout and the existing weld joint.) I'll give you this set if D_adams cuts me a deal on his latest RT-4. Now that takes care of the soot issues. | ||
| Mountainstorm |
Terp it'd be cool to run across you again, at least now I know you're not a stalker It was cold back then and a day before I'd gotten a ticket right about where you first saw me; I was taking it easy. That's my story and I'm sticking to it. I want a D_Adams custom too. The HMF was too loud. | ||
| Zacks |
And here I thought I was leaving too much virgin tread still :-) Guess I shouldn't post up the Firebolt or RF pics... Truly, there's not real great riding roads around here, but there are some nice corners here and there. For more details, look at my second post above. You need more than that and I'll be happy to expand. |
