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Buell Forum » 1125R Superbike Board » Archives 001 » Archive through April 24, 2010 » Brake bleeding advice « Previous Next »

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Dktechguy112
Posted on Wednesday, April 21, 2010 - 11:26 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I got a mityvac and i am going to try to bleed the clutch and front brake this weekend. I am reading the manual on the mityvac, and it talks about bench bleeding the master cylinder if it was removed, which mine was. I put on a high bar kit, so i had to change out the lines. the bench bleeding they talk about seems to apply for cars, as they are talking about multiple ports on the master cylinder.

i have a few questions:
1. do i have to bench bleed the master cylinder?

2. I have attached the lines to the clutch cover and brake caliper, should i put some brake fluid in them before i attach the lines to the master cylinders?

3. once i attach the lines, the procedure for bleeding as i understand it:
a. fill up the master cylinder.
b. attach the mity vac to the bleeder screw.
c. pump up the mityvac.
d. open the bleeder screw .
e. pump until the fluid comes out with no bubbles, making sure that the master cylinder does not get low.
f. close the bleeder screw and remove the mityvac, did i miss anything?
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Luvriding
Posted on Thursday, April 22, 2010 - 10:14 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I would reattach all cables and follow your directions after number 3.
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S1125r
Posted on Thursday, April 22, 2010 - 11:38 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Make really sure that the seal is good between the Mityvac and the bleeder screw, otherwise it doesn't work very well.
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Dano_12s
Posted on Thursday, April 22, 2010 - 01:26 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Take the bleeder out,apply teflon tape to the threads-be careful not to cover up the bleed hole-install and that should seal the threads from allowing air passed while vacuum is used.
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1_mike
Posted on Thursday, April 22, 2010 - 05:53 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Teflon tape...someone still makes that crap..?

That garbage should NEVER be used on anything with a liquid flowing thru it...

Mike
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Dktechguy112
Posted on Thursday, April 22, 2010 - 06:59 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

i have never used teflon tape, i was going to use plumbers tape, that white plastic stuff on the threads, would that work?
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Jdugger
Posted on Thursday, April 22, 2010 - 07:10 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

All you need is an empty soda bottle, some vinyl tube and an 8mm wrench.

Takes a bit of time, but bleeds better than an angry woman having her worst month.
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Usanigel
Posted on Thursday, April 22, 2010 - 08:11 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

My way.
tube over the bleed nipple with the end into a catchment bottle. Make sure the master cylinder is full. Open the bleed nipple and leave it open till fluid flows and it will due to gravity. Top up the master cylinder and put on the cap, screws not needed yet.
Squeeze the brake lever, hold and close the nipple. Release the lever. Open the nipple and squeeze the lever. close the nipple, release the lever. Check fluid level. Replace cover and try the lever. If it not "solid" bleed again. you might need to pump the lever to move the pads into position before you get a solid feel to the lever.
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Thefleshrocket
Posted on Thursday, April 22, 2010 - 08:38 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

What's wrong with Teflon tape? When my garden hoses leak, a little Teflon tape solves the problem.

Many years ago when I installed steel brake lines on my 03 gsxr1000, I over tightened one of the bleeder screws and it wept ever so slightly. I ordered a new bleeder screw but since this was my only bike, I put a little Teflon tape around the bleeder threads and that fixed the leak. I never did install the replacement screw and the brake line is leak free to this day.

(Message edited by Thefleshrocket on April 22, 2010)
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Froggy
Posted on Thursday, April 22, 2010 - 08:45 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Oh no, another Teflon tape thread!
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Thefleshrocket
Posted on Thursday, April 22, 2010 - 09:04 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Seriously? Is Teflon tape right up there with which oil to run as far as cliched discussion topics?
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Froggy
Posted on Thursday, April 22, 2010 - 10:05 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Yes!

http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/327 77/301679.html
http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/327 77/301724.html
http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/327 77/301663.html?1188111571

Basically do a search by author for Southsidebuellone. : )
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Dano_12s
Posted on Friday, April 23, 2010 - 09:07 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Didn't mean to start a war!The tape is used to seal the thread area of the bleeder for the Mityvac to not suck air when vacuum is used. FYI: the fluid sealing is done on the tip of the bleeder not the threads.
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Ratbuell
Posted on Friday, April 23, 2010 - 10:09 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

One step that I usually add to Usanigel's process (and a note - make sure the hose goes into the catch bottle and IS SUBMERGED in fresh fluid so it doesn't suck air) is to pull the brake lever to the grip and strap/tape/zip tie it there overnight, with the master cylinder cap loose. This allows any trapped air to bubble up (with no master cylinder pressure) overnight and has always resulted in GREAT braking feel for me.

It's also a quick tip for brakes that are "just a little" spongy. Most times I do this, and I don't even need to touch a bleeder screw : )
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Blake
Posted on Friday, April 23, 2010 - 11:57 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

By far the best method I've found for bleeding motorcycle brakes...

Buell Brake Bleeding, The Syringe Way
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Zac4mac
Posted on Friday, April 23, 2010 - 12:54 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Spot on Blake.
That's how I do mine, it's almost painless.

Z
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