| Author | Message | ||
     Clk92vette |
Just a few heads up for anyone who has yet to perform their first oil change: 1) If you do not have a sport chock to support your bike, you will need a catch pan large enough to put your kick stand in and catch the oil from both drains and the filter cover. Otherwise it will be all over the ground by the time your are done. 2) Apparently the four hour minimum cool down/drain back time for the cold oil level check is important?!?! I performed my cold check in accordance with the manual, except for a 2-1/2 hr wait period, and it was not even showing on the stick after adding 2-3/4 qts. I added another 1/2 qt. then performed the hot check after a 45 minute ride. This time the oil was slightly above the overfull mark. So I drained enough back out to get it within the operating range. 3) My magnetic plug captured enough paste, and a few shavings, to fill the plug well completely. This doesn't surprise me on the initial oil change, but I would expect a heck of a lot less on subsequent changes. I am curious to know what others have found? | ||
| 99buellx1 |
Are you checking by the manual or this procedure?
From here: Corrected oil level verification procedure for 2008 Buell 1125R | ||
| Dmhines |
From what I have read ... drain out all the oil ... add 3 QTS ... don't even check the stick. | ||
| Freezerburn840 |
For your number 2 point. I like to change my oil towards the end of the day. I put exactly 3 quarts in then I start it to check for any leaks. Then I turn it off. Come back early next morning before I start a ride. Do a cold check it has been perfect everytime. I lost to much sleep the first time worrying about the hot check. Saying to myself, "well it could be low"? Point 3 its normal to have a lot shavings on the plug that is a good thing and what it was designed for. Each oil change there will be less and less. I have 7,500 miles on mine the last one I did at 6,500 no shavings at all. I have done 3 oil changes. Running synthetic since the first oil change. Modern engines are great right out the gate. I varied engine rpms with the factory oil. I really dont think there is an issue switching to synthetic right away either. The factory oil in the beginning is enough to seat everything properly. (Message edited by freezerburn840 on April 21, 2010) (Message edited by freezerburn840 on April 21, 2010) (Message edited by freezerburn840 on April 21, 2010) | ||
| Hogzilla |
I'd also add, put LOTS of newspaper down around the area for wayward oil. | ||
| Milt |
Heed Hogzilla's warning ! Oil will gush out of the left plug like as from a fire hose - shooting out further that you'd guess possible. | ||
| Clk92vette |
I did follow the cold check instructions in my manual being unaware that they were superseded. This caused my erroneously low oil level reading. But since I was leary about having an overfilled condition I kept the revs reasonably low to prevent any blow by on my warm up run before I performed the hot check. I will check my air filter regardless just to be safe. Thx for the feedback. | ||
| Kidder |
I had my bike on a paddock stand when I change the oil. I drained the right side first to reduce the gusher on the left. | ||
| Hogzilla |
Yes indeed, it will flow like a firehose. I also removed the right (brake side) first. Let it run till it stopped, THEN removed the left. That removed about a quart before the left side purge. (didn't notice Kidder posted the same thing) If you are doing it without a lift stand the bike upright for a bit to get the last little dribbles out from the drains. Also, removing the filter is quite messy. Make sure you have plenty of drain pan real estate under that as well. (Message edited by hogzilla on April 21, 2010) | ||
| Ratbuell |
So...is the 3qt fill correct on an '09 CR with filter change? I did the manual's 2.7qt (2 qt, 22oz IIRC) and level looked ok to me... | ||
| Hogzilla |
3 qts is what mine took after removing the filter and letting it fully drain. | ||
| Freezerburn840 |
3 QTS. with filter change for mine. | ||
| Johnnys999 |
Do you install the new filter empty or fill it half way first? The filling is recommended in some circles. | ||
| Froggy |
I've always done it empty on the 1125s. Wouldn't filling it cause it to spill out before you could put it in? | ||
| Clk92vette |
I own an '88 Thunderbird Turbo Coupe and their is concern about starving the turbo after an oil change. The common recommendation is to fill the filter with oil prior to installing. I think most people would be surprised as to how much oil the filter paper absorbs before it becomes saturated. I thought about this when I was putting the new filter on my R. Of course, you can't fill an open filament oil filter with oil. But certainly it takes some time for a new filter to become saturated before it begins to flow oil back to the motor. My guess is that it probably doesn't make any difference due to the oil adhering to the cylinder walls and all the bearing surfaces more than long enough to make up the delay. But you could soak the filter in oil prior to installing. | ||
| Zac4mac |
I got one of these at the local Auto Zone.  First, I put Loretta on her rear stand. Open the big cap on the side and stand the pan up so the left drain is pointing at it. Pull the plug and as the stream slows, slowly lay the pan down. Slide the pan under the right-side drain and dump. I didn't spill a single drop last time. Then I drain the oil into clean milk jugs and use it in my Jeep. Zack (Message edited by zac4mac on April 25, 2010) | ||
| Jules |
Then I drain the oil into clean milk jugs and use it in my Jeep. That's a great idea... I might well start doing the same thing with my Jag.. | ||
| Chadhargis |
Sadly, my Jeep is a turbo diesel and requires very special oil. I just put 10 liters of fresh old in my diesel yesterday.  | ||
| Dktechguy112 |
"1) If you do not have a sport chock to support your bike, you will need a catch pan large enough to put your kick stand in and catch the oil from both drains and the filter cover. Otherwise it will be all over the ground by the time your are done. " or you can have someone sit on the bike and hold it straight up, no stand needed, and you can lean the bike over easily to drain the last bit of oil out @ the end. Also, make sure the container you choose can hold all of the oil, my first oil change i chose one that couldn't hold all of the oil, so about half a quart got on my garage floor. | ||
| Motorhead102482 |
I don't know if anybody else does this, but I put a tin foil chute underneath the drains to keep oil from dripping everywhere | ||
| Ratbuell |
I love my gravel driveway....drips and drops? No problem. And I had no problem at all with a 5qt automotive drain pan, triangle-shaped. I also love my Deuce-and-a-half - it's my UMO (used motor oil) disposal station. It actually RUNS on UMO! The engine is a "multifuel direct-injected turbo diesel", but it runs on kero, UMO, diesel, unleaded...if it's liquid and burns, toss it in the tank. |
