| Author | Message | ||
     Mountainstorm |
I need to change the front brake pads and I don't have a service manual. I located the torque values via the search function but I can't find any threads that detail how to do it. I've changed pads on my X-1 but never on a perimeter brake front wheel. Is it possible to unmount the rotor and slide that out of the way and change the pads without taking the front wheel off? I'm thinking to loosen the reservoir lid and press the pucks all the way in so I do not have to bleed the line. It's how I've done it with other brake systems. But not so sure if the rotor can be slipped free without hitting the rim. Just thought I'd ask before I screw something up. Thanks in advance. | ||
| Jules |
Have a quick look here: http://badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/290431/ 532508.html?1264454976 When it was asked last time the concensus was that the wheel has to be removed.. | ||
| Ysracer |
Remove the wheel. Tape the spokes that will be in proximity to the slots in the back of the caliper to avoid scratches. Once the wheel is free, move it back toward the engine and you will be able to slide the caliper off. | ||
| Mountainstorm |
Thanks a lot. Guess I better build an A frame to hoist the beast. | ||
| Ysracer |
Nahhh. Pit Bull stand  | ||
| Arcticcr |
Mountainstorm, Are you keeping the stock pad compound? If not, I'd recommend removing the rotor for cleaning, ideally, glass bead and scotch pad with an air tool. The reason I recommend this is because some pad compounds don't get along with one another, in other works, the stock pad residue left on the rotor, may not work with the new compound. Jay | ||
| Justa4banger |
the EBR 6mm front disk is cheap enough, just get a new disk..  besides i think the bigger disk looks Badass....... thats my plan when it comes time for front pads... | ||
| Mountainstorm |
I have a bead blasting cabinet in the shop. Sounds like a good idea. I plan to put a wave on the front and back sooner or later...when finances allow, but for now I'll be using the standard rotor. I found a good deal on the Lyndall Gold Plus pads at hyperformanceparts.com. Less than $60 shipped. So I went with those for now. (Message edited by Mountainstorm on February 22, 2010) | ||
| 1_mike |
Bead blast the rotor....??? It took about 250 miles (three days) of back and forth to work for the EBC "HH" pads to clean off the stock pad crap. No need for all the extra work. Mike | ||
| Family_buells |
besides i think the bigger disk looks Badass....... If you can tell that the disc is bigger from more than 3 feet away, then you're the only one. It's only 1mm thicker, not any bigger in diameter. | ||
| Mikezx9r |
I took the caliper off to change the pads. I didnt have a hex socket big enough to take the front axle out. | ||
| Justa4banger |
Mike doesn't the tool kit in the bike have the hex needed for the wheel? i honestly don;t know i just remember seeing that hex tool in the bag and assuming it was for the wheels. As for the rotor, its noticably bigger    Pictures borrowed from Hellgate... | ||
| Justa4banger |
opps i just realized i had my discs confused.. well either way the one i posted looks better, i guess its a few dollars more.. | ||
| Mikezx9r |
It is possible the tool kit has it. I never thought to look there. | ||
| 99buellx1 |
The one you posted pictures of is the 5mm finned from EBR, not the 6mm. | ||
| Arcticcr |
Bead blast the rotor....??? . . . No need for all the extra work. So let me get this straight, many brake pad manufactures have 100s if not 1000s of different pad compound and you've done a sample size of one that didn't have a problem. Ok, I'll stick to doing the work, after all we're talking about the brakes system. Sorry to be blunt, but I'd rather some thing not go wrong. ~ J | ||
| Justa4banger |
99buellx1, thanks i caught my own mistake though.. | ||
| Xnoahx |
I dont get all the fuss over brakes, they dont help you go any faster. They just make the bike slower. | ||
| Family_buells |
They can make you go faster if they're lighter. Aside from the reasoning that a brake setup with good power and feel will allow you to go faster because it gives you more confidence in how it will perform (Message edited by family_buells on February 23, 2010) | ||
| Fresnobuell |
Guys, The finned rotor will hurt ur performance as it's heavier and not only adds unsprung mass but rotating mass. Bad. The only people that will benefit from a finned rotor are those where the benefits from less brake fade outweigh the negative handling issues created by the bigger rotor. But if you into the "badass" look, then all is good I guess. | ||
| Mountainstorm |
Thanks Fresno I did not look into the weight difference. As tight as play money is these days I can live without fins on my rotor. Looks like I will be getting my hands dirty Saturday weather permitting. Just need to find the right tree... | ||
| 1_mike |
arct - What ? Use your head. Understand what is happening..! Not to worry, you aren't so blunt. Been working on my own bikes for many a year..with more than a coupla sport bikes I've put over 100,000 miles on....that all still stop very well. Including my 04 R1 that's rapidly getting to the 100,000 mile bracket. Plus a wopping two Buells I've done the pad change to with the exact same outcome. Mike | ||
| Arcticcr |
Mike, I guess with your vast experience, that you could provide quantifiable data to supports your claim that different pad compounds will never have incomparability issues, even considering the enormous amount of different pads there are. I’d love to see it, fact gain through testing, not opinions. ~ J |
