Author |
Message |
Johnnys999
| Posted on Monday, February 08, 2010 - 02:07 am: |
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Has anyone else noticed the bolt hole threads are a little on the soft side? I can't remember the last time I did it, but today during the de-noid process I stripped or damaged a couple bolt hole threads. One was a right side airbox cover bolt hole and the other was the right side seat bolt hole. Both on closer inspection were clearly gouged by the harder threaded bolts. Apparently I came in at the incorrect angle, seemed like it didn't take much for it to happen. I think since the threads are so soft, it should be easy to tap them. |
Mooch
| Posted on Monday, February 08, 2010 - 02:31 am: |
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the same thing happened to me with my right side seat bolt. any ideas how to fix it? |
Fresnobuell
| Posted on Monday, February 08, 2010 - 02:36 am: |
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The only threads I have boogered would be the threads on the seat bolts, just from overuse prior to the American Sport Bike retention kit. As far as the others, I believe the bolts are steel and mating with alum. threads, so that may be part of the problem |
Jdugger
| Posted on Monday, February 08, 2010 - 08:07 am: |
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The seat bolts are a brass material, and it's real soft. I drilled mine out and went with hitch pins to hold the seat in place. Works great! On the airbox, it's a soft brass grommet in the even softer body plastic! Here, I finally re-glued in that thing and I use Aluminum fasteners which destroy themselves first. At $1.00 a piece, not a cheap solution, but you might also consider a nylon fastener there to prevent damage from cross threads/over torque. There's not much load there -- the airbox is pretty mechanically stable -- so you can use a lame fastener without much worry. |
Mountainstorm
| Posted on Monday, February 08, 2010 - 08:15 am: |
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Nylon fasteners are remarkable strong and durable. That's a good solution. If you need to fix a buggered thread you can do it a couple of ways. Helicoil (expensive) or fill it with JB Weld Liquid Metal and retap (won't last). Or you might get lucky and just have to run a tap through the damaged threads. In the future try spinning the bolt CCW as you apply light inward pressure. This will allow you to feel the starting thread (as it "bumps" against the CCW rotating bolt) |
Kirb
| Posted on Monday, February 08, 2010 - 08:30 am: |
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Helicoil will solve the problem and make it difficult to bugger them up in the future. |
Dannybuell
| Posted on Monday, February 08, 2010 - 09:27 am: |
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CCR method that mountainstorm describes with anti-sieze compound makes it very easy to know/feel what you are doing in this type of situation. also makes removal easier and less likely to threaten those sticky brass nuts from their housing. My last screwup like this was replacing fogged out headlight buckets, two long steel bolts going into tiny brass nuts. dannybuell |
Zac4mac
| Posted on Monday, February 08, 2010 - 10:00 pm: |
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I put a dab of Never-Seize on each and screw them in by hand as far as I can. Cross-threaded a seat insert on my Firebolt, major PITA. |
Kenm123t
| Posted on Tuesday, February 09, 2010 - 12:00 am: |
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i set rivnuts in thin or soft metals as a repair or original threaded inserts in sheet metal or tubing in my fab shop The tool and rivnuts are availible at Grainger |
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