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Buell Forum » 1125R Superbike Board » Archives 001 » Archive through February 01, 2010 » Put brakes back on, no tension? « Previous Next »

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Devonthedoug
Posted on Sunday, January 31, 2010 - 03:01 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I painted my R which required me to remove the rear brakes, now once returned and refilled with fluid there is absolutely no pressure in it, ??? i would bleed them but there would have to be some pressure to push the air out but instead it just drips fluid., any suggestions
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D_adams
Posted on Sunday, January 31, 2010 - 03:17 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Mighty-Vac.

Wish I were closer, I could help.

(Message edited by d_adams on January 31, 2010)
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Mmcustoms
Posted on Sunday, January 31, 2010 - 03:54 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Open the bleeder and let them gravity bleed first then you should be able to bleed them regular way
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Arcticcr
Posted on Sunday, January 31, 2010 - 05:22 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Just go get this:



http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_009209300 00P?keyword=Brakes+bleed
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Ccryder
Posted on Sunday, January 31, 2010 - 07:58 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Devon:
Mity-vac is the easiest. Manual bleed sometimes is a pain. Try pumping quickly through the full stroke. Make sure you release fully, that's when it sucks in more fluid.

Depending on how much air you have it may take 20-30 pumps b4 you feel anything. Also, whenever you open the bleed valve make sure you hold the pedal down. You should also have the drain hose in some brake fluid so it won't suck air.

Mity-vac just sucks and then your are done.

Good luck
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D_adams
Posted on Sunday, January 31, 2010 - 09:51 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Also watch the reservoir, the rear one is freakin tiny!
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Zac4mac
Posted on Sunday, January 31, 2010 - 11:04 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I use a 60cc syringe and back-feed from the caliper.
Once it gets to the reservoir, I top it off there.

Z
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Illbuell
Posted on Sunday, January 31, 2010 - 11:12 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Bleeding doesn't get any easier for me than a syringe.. very little clean up to.
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Blake
Posted on Monday, February 01, 2010 - 12:40 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Sometimes it take a LOT of lever work to get the brake system pumped up after disassembly. I mean a LOT of lever work.

A big ole horse syringe works great and costs about nothing. Connect it to caliper nipple via clear tubing and inject new fluid absent any air bubbles. Works beautifully. Empty the reservoir first. : )

Where's Henrik's article on that...

Brake Bleeding The Syringe Way by Henrik Bo Pedersen
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Mikellyjo
Posted on Monday, February 01, 2010 - 12:51 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

That link to Henrik's article is a nugget of useful information and is exactly why I like to visit this site much more often then I'll ever tell my boss. Thanks for posting it, now it's time to add big ole syringe to the tool kit.

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