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Buell Forum » 1125R Superbike Board » Archives 001 » Archive through February 01, 2010 » Frame.. aluminum? « Previous Next »

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Buellfreak
Posted on Monday, January 25, 2010 - 05:31 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

im needing to fabercate and weld on a broken neck of a 08 1125r.. does anyone know what metal contents are in the aluminum? i want a solid weld!!
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Badlionsfan
Posted on Monday, January 25, 2010 - 05:41 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Just replace the frame. Not worth trying to fix.
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Ccryder
Posted on Monday, January 25, 2010 - 08:22 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

+100 replace it not worth the chance much less the time.
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99buellx1
Posted on Monday, January 25, 2010 - 08:30 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

You buy that one that was on eBay?

I also agree on the getting a new frame.
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Justa4banger
Posted on Monday, January 25, 2010 - 10:31 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

i would guess that is a YES...

Get a new frame..
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Illbuell
Posted on Monday, January 25, 2010 - 11:06 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

We used T-66 welding rod and tigged a badly broken frame on one of our stunt bikes. It held against all our punishment...
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Responsible
Posted on Monday, January 25, 2010 - 11:19 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

T-66? Never heard of that one. Can you tell me more?

Pete
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Hdwrenchtx
Posted on Monday, January 25, 2010 - 11:29 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

A frame is like $1300. Might be worth it for peace of mind
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Dcmortalcoil
Posted on Tuesday, January 26, 2010 - 12:50 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

make sure to empty the fuel from the frame completely before attempting to weld.
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Illbuell
Posted on Tuesday, January 26, 2010 - 01:22 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

WHAT!!!! NO NO Do not empty it. Well only if your going to fill it with water. Seriously unless the tank is already ruptured somewhere, fill it all the way up with gas.. Liquid fuel won't explode. But fuel vapor will.. Don't take my word for it, or anyone on here. DO the research..
A full tank is safer but do have an extinguisher handy if the vent ignites.
I have done this many times and a fire is no big deal with the fuel cap on and locked.
It will be very small unless you have a big hole in your frame all the way through. Oh maker sure your welder is a master tig welder.
If not buy a new frame.
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Xnoahx
Posted on Tuesday, January 26, 2010 - 02:43 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Did he just tell you to weld near a fuel source? It might not explode but it seems more dangerous than necessary
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Jramsey
Posted on Tuesday, January 26, 2010 - 02:59 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Drain the fuel from the frame and take it to the quarter car wash and run at least 5 bucks worth of hot soapy water through it.

(Message edited by Jramsey on January 26, 2010)

(Message edited by jramsey on January 26, 2010)
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Westmoorenerd
Posted on Tuesday, January 26, 2010 - 03:00 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I'm with emptying it out, and force venting it for a couple of days... I'm just saying that's how we deal with any fuel cells in the Navy.
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Ridenusa4l
Posted on Tuesday, January 26, 2010 - 03:29 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

lets see pics of the area that your trying to weld..

Jake
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Avc8130
Posted on Tuesday, January 26, 2010 - 08:45 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

How about emptying and throwing some dry ice in? That should push the gas fumes out.
ac
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Jdugger
Posted on Tuesday, January 26, 2010 - 09:13 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Standard procedure is to wash and fill with water or wash several times and backgas with Argon.

The problem with the water fill is it prevents an open root weld and may contaminate the weld on the back side significantly. Generally, the water trick is only acceptable on steel non-pressure vessels.

Personally, I'd buy a new frame.
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Slaughter
Posted on Tuesday, January 26, 2010 - 09:19 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Not knowing HOW the frame was broken, you seem to be spending your time worrying about the weld. I'd be concerned about cracks elsewhere as well.

If you have access to Non-Destructive Inspection or people with experience in inspecting aircraft cast/welded structures, you ought to talk.

Trust me, you don't want to make assumptions about the bike being "OK" after it has been down:

From this:

To this:


And also a pic of Jeff Ecklund's bike in our pits (chassis broken as it was DESIGNED to break - instead of breaking the FUEL CELL):



(crashing sucks so be careful about decisions you're making about what other damage there might be in other places on that chassis)
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Carbonbigfoot
Posted on Tuesday, January 26, 2010 - 09:36 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Reference this thread if you ever wonder about the collective wisdom of those that lurk here!

R
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Dosmie
Posted on Tuesday, January 26, 2010 - 12:06 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Structurally speaking, the area that failed is already full of base metal stress. If you were to weld repair the break, that adds more stress to the base metal. And in the case of aluminum, weakens the heat affected area even more.
Buy the new frame.
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Family_buells
Posted on Tuesday, January 26, 2010 - 12:30 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Even if you weld it strong enough, you have to weld it straight. I believe that with the sensitivity of the Buell to geometry changes, the chances of you getting it wrong are pretty high.
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Marinus
Posted on Tuesday, January 26, 2010 - 04:59 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I knew a guy who owned a trucking firm.

Some of the over-the-road rigs had aluminum fuel tanks shaped like barrels, hung on the sides of the frame rails. The tanks would crack, on occasion (a million miles on a chassis will lead to that) and leak fuel.

Well, leaking fuel is wasteful and bad for the environment and against the law, so Matt would weld up the cracks. Somehow he'd gotten in the habit of doing this while they were still on the truck and still held fuel.

Now some folks would say he must have been doing it wrong, 'cause the tank never explodes, flinging flaming diesel all over the shop and the welder, unless you're doing it wrong.

Odd. He must have been doing it right every time before.

I'm not a professional welder. I'm not a chemical engineer, or a metallurgist. Unless I'm in the middle of a life-or-death battle and every second counts, I'm not gonna strike an arc on a metal vessel holding a flammable liquid.

If you're tempted to respond, "You have to do it a certain way"... tell it to Matt's survivors.

-- and btw, Chrisrogers has an 1125R frame for sale in the classifieds for $400. No VIN, but between the two frames you outa be able to convince the DMV you deserve a title. Show 'em the old frame. : )
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Froggy
Posted on Tuesday, January 26, 2010 - 05:11 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Cut the vin off the old frame and superglue it to the new one. : )
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99buellx1
Posted on Tuesday, January 26, 2010 - 05:17 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Oh, here we go, now you're going to incite a bunch of posts on the proper method to glue it and which glue works the best.

Geez..




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Family_buells
Posted on Tuesday, January 26, 2010 - 07:12 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

IMHO a two part epoxy will be more durable than superglue ; )
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Tq_freak
Posted on Tuesday, January 26, 2010 - 07:16 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Your Full if it

Teflon Tape works the best
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Froggy
Posted on Tuesday, January 26, 2010 - 07:43 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

If you use too much teflon tape, wouldn't that cause fragments to come loose and potentially clog your fuel pump?
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Dosmie
Posted on Tuesday, January 26, 2010 - 08:16 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Helllllllooooooooo, DUCT TAPE!!
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Buellfreak
Posted on Tuesday, January 26, 2010 - 08:23 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)



..... here are the pics of the frame of the bike.. im a very good welder (not to braggg haha) and know a guy that machines racing parts for an f1 car overseas.. i think it would be a cheap way out?... if there was a used frame i could get a hold of id deff, just buy a new one.. the bike was only 2700. so i thouht it was a good deal (clear title also)
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Buellfreak
Posted on Tuesday, January 26, 2010 - 08:24 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

oh.. yea.. does anyone know how much a new front assembely cost.. iv got the gauge cluster..

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Illbuell
Posted on Tuesday, January 26, 2010 - 08:46 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

To bad gone.. New frame
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Buellfreak
Posted on Tuesday, January 26, 2010 - 08:54 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

ha i was hoping Illbuell would be the one to tell me to go with welding it up.. i give up! anyone with a frame???!!!? ha
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Zac4mac
Posted on Wednesday, January 27, 2010 - 11:15 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I say weld it up.



Then hang it on the wall as art.
Z
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