| Author | Message | ||
     Marcodesade |
I just got back from my 12K service and the advisor told me the tech "found a way to do the service without rotating the engine out." Can someone who has done their own service tell me whether this is possible --- and if not, why not? I was under the impression that rotating the engine down was necessary, not just optional. And, while we're at it, can someone who knows list all the items that are inspected and/or replaced at this service? Finally, is M3HUS062 the latest flash for the 08 R? And can someone tell me its release date? (Message edited by MarcoDeSade on January 02, 2010) | ||
| Milt |
They need to rotate the engine to replace the rear spark plug. If they've figured out how to do that without rotating the engine, I'd like to know how. | ||
| Milt |
The maintenance schedule should be in your Owner's Manual. If you don't have one, there's one at the front of the 1125 Forum. https://www.buell.com/om/99480-09Y_en/ | ||
| Marcodesade |
Thanks Milt. I should have looked in the manual before typing of course, but didn't. At this point I'm a little paranoid --- he SAYS (and the service order documents) he replaced the plugs, but he also claims not to have rotated the engine. I'm going to check all the other easily checkable stuff (breather and air filter to begin with) to see if anythiing looks neglected. Not to belabor the subject, but would the valves also require rotation of the engine? Also, I see that the interval for changing the fork oil is listed as 12.4K; would you expect that to be included in the service? And lastly: can someone verify that M3HUS062 is the latest flash for the 08 R and tell me its release date? | ||
| Redscuell |
Just had the 20,000 km service done by the dealer, which I believe is roughly the equivalent service you're speaking of. Dealer's first priority was to inspect valve lash, and that REQUIRED the engine rotation. And the dealer changed the plugs at the same time, saying rotation would be necessary to do that anyway. And the dealer DEFINITELY rotated the engine, because the dealer buggered up plenty of things putting it all back together; which I had to set right myself. So, long story short: engine rotation REQUIRED for plug change and valve lash check. | ||
| Chameleon |
I've changed my own plugs three times without rotating the motor at all... The front plug gives me difficulty because it's such a tight space to work with. The rear cylinder plug is a piece of cake since it's just under the seat. Unless I've got it backwards somehow and the cylinder toward the front (headlight side) of the bike is actually the rear cylinder... Here's two pics I took during the first spark plug replacement when I found that the front (headlight side) plug was corroded due to water intrusion beyond the seal.   | ||
| Milt |
I've never actually changed my plugs - bike is too new. I've just spent lots of time on the commuter train reading manuals. In any case, Chameleon, I defer to your actual experience. Any special tricks for getting at the front plug? | ||
| Marcodesade |
I'm also willing to believe that, even if rotating is the preferred method, the plugs might be removable with the engine in place. I'd also like to hear how it's done. But what about checking the valves? And just as importantly: when getting the 12.4K (20KM) service, do you expect the dealer to perform ALL the items listed in the manual as due at that time? | ||
| D_adams |
The frame can be lifted off. Lots of wiring to unhook, clutch master cylinder gets taken off the handlebar, disconnect the throttle cables, support the engine from the bottom with a custom built frame or a jack, remove the frame bolts attached to the motor, undo one end of the rear shock and lift the whole frame and front end off the engine. I think the RMR race team was said to have done it in about 15-20 minutes, but I think they practiced at it some. The service manual shows you exactly what to take off if you want to do it that way. I need to do mine soon, since it's too damn cold to ride anyway. One other thing, the rear wheel/swingarm needs to be either strapped down or chocked in a lift to prevent movement. I'm not sure I'd trust just having it on a rear stand alone with a small frame under it. | ||
| Redbuelljunkie |
If your dealer was able to complete the 12k service without rotating the engine, I sincerely hope you weren't charged the full amount- you should not pay for shop time that didn't happen. | ||
| D_adams |
Redbuelljunkie - It's called "flat-rate" for a reason. How do you think the mechanic makes $? The faster you get the job done right, the more you make. Been there, done that and was pretty damn good at it. I just got tired of hearing "raise next year when the business really takes off" shit. I made the shop I was at more money than I care to think about. They went under after I left. However, if you screw up when you're on flat-rate pay, it's coming out of your pocket, not the shop. It pays to know what you're doing. I haven't had to actually work on mine yet, other than basic maintenance stuff, but the valve service is due now, so I'll probably spend a day playing with some shims. I don't mind paying for something I can't do myself, especially if it's a warranty thing, but I'll damn sure try to learn what I can from the guy doing the work if I can. | ||
| Marcodesade |
I purchased the "prepaid maintenance" package when I purchased my bike, so I did get a substantial discount (in addition to a free loaner every time the bike's in the shop). But in this case, I don't really care HOW he did the work, only THAT he did it. The technician is not in the shop today, but here's what I know now: Since my last post, I removed the cowl to get at my tool bag --- and saw my old spark plugs. The plugs were changed. Air filter (k&n) is clean. That was done. Service advisor confirms that they have the 062 flash, and that the bike had to be hooked up to the DigiTech for the service. I am satisfied that I have the most recent flash (even though my last visit was on 10/24/09 --- about a week before this flash was released --- and they said I was already current). They also installed --- as a courtesy, and at no charge --- some ThermoTec heat shield I bought from Al at American Sport Bike. I was dubious whether this could be done with the engine in place, but it is installed on both sides and looks meticulous. I'm still curious as to whether, and how, the valves could be inspected with the engine in place. Also, the writeup does not show fork oil under "parts" along with the oil, filter, and plugs but the advisor says they may have had some in the service bay. He says he will check with the tech when he comes in on Tuesday. When I started the thread, there were enough questions that I was getting paranoid. At this point, I'm assuming that everything that needed to be done was done. | ||
| Froggy |
Fork oil is part of the 18.6 service, not 12.4 | ||
| Marcodesade |
Crap. Did I mention that I'm also illiterate? | ||
| Redbuelljunkie |
D adams- yeah, I understand that- I worked in the industry for years. That's why the only people allowed to work on my bikes are the ones who charge for actual work done. Flat-rate is a scheme that lines dealer's pockets- it's bad for the tech and bad for the customer. I don't care if a job takes longer than the labor time in the manual- I will pay for a job done correctly even if it takes longer. I will not, however, pay for time not spent repairing my bike- especially if a tech is rushing the job in order to try and make an extra penny. |
