| Author | Message | ||
     Vosnick52 |
I have 2 trackdays this weekend and I need to drain the anti freeze and put water/water wetter in the system. I looked at the service manual but it doesn't help much. Damn they squeeze those hoses in were I can't really get to them. Please help!!!!! | ||
| Barker |
Be careful removing the tube on the top of the left side. It can easily get damaged/ripped off. I'll see you @ Tally. Right now it only looks like a 50% chance of snow! | ||
| Carbonbigfoot |
I think you just drill a hole in the bottom at the lowest point. The problem is getting it to seal back up.... | ||
| Barker |
easy to seal back up. JB weld! Right side is easy just remove that t30 bolt on the engine. You might want to replace the crush washer. | ||
| Vosnick52 |
Barker, I will definitely see you there. I will be in the front at the riders meeting. I will be instructing both days. Back to the subject, the info you guys just gave me is not helping. Anyone have detailed instructions so I don't mess my bike up? | ||
| Kevin_stevens |
+1 Going to Laguna Seca in two weeks and don't have a service manual yet. KeS | ||
| Ccryder |
On the water pump cover there is one bolt that has a copper washer. That is the drain bolt. Make sure bike is on the sidestand!!! Yea, there is a procedure: BLEEDING COOLANT 1. Allow the engine to cool. 2. See Figure 1-55. Remove the radiator cap and wrap the filler neck with a shop towel to contain spilled coolant. 3. Fill the filler neck with coolant. Use only GENUINE HARLEY-DAVIDSON EXTENDED LIFE ANTIFREEZE & COOLANT (Part No. 99822-02). NOTE Reving the engine will draw more air into the system. If reved, shut off the engine and restart the bleeding. 4. Start the engine and run at an idle. NOTE To bleed air from the system, the thermostat must be open. The thermostat opens at 165° F (73.9° C). 5. As air bubbles up through the filler neck add coolant to maintain the coolant level at the bottom of the filler neck. 6. Continue until no air bubbles are escaping the filler neck. 7. With the cap off, allow the engine to cool. 8. Top off the filler neck with coolant as necessary. 9. Install the filler cap. 10. Top off the overflow bottle. Thought I posted this earlier but????? | ||
| Kevin_stevens |
I didn't see it, so thanks. Pretty much "Empty. Fill. Done."  KeS | ||
| Smoke |
i flushed mine differently. removed r/h side cover and removed all fasteners holding overflow bottle and r/h radiator. that gave enough flex to remove the hose at the bottom of the r/h radiator. cranked bike up and fed clean water into hose and routed return coolant into catch bucket. when clear water only started coming out only i quit adding water and allowed some of the water to drain out and shut off motor. i then added my premixed water wetter to the hose, started the bike and kept adding the premixed water wetter until some of the water wetter began to be expelled. shut off bike, reattached hose to radiator, serviced radiator, started bike and added premix as necessary to radiator leaving cap off until i was satisfied with results. shut off motor. reattached overflow bottle and serviced, installed radiator cap, started bike and let run til satisfied, shut off motor, service as necessary, install outer rad cover, go for ride, check levels and service as necessary. took longer to type than do. tim | ||
| Vosnick52 |
Replaced the coolant today. The left side was a bitch. | ||
| Marcodesade |
Hate to threadjack but on a distantly related note: there is just ONE reservoir, right? Because I've only been checking the right side . . . | ||
| A_s_r |
You are correct Mark. The ECM is in the left pod. (Message edited by a_s_r on December 04, 2009) | ||
| Chadhargis |
Left side IS a bitch. It requires you to remove the entire left radiator as the lower hose is short and connects to a metal tube. JB Weld will seal up a cracked overflow tube weld just fine. DAHIK.  | ||
| Vosnick52 |
Chad, I must of messed with that hose for 20 min before I took the radiator off. After that it was easy. |
